Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
  #1
First flash for K-3 II
Posted By: talkskiwon, 08-02-2016, 02:11 PM

Hello. I am in search of a flash for K-3, but it seems like most flash are bigger than I imagined. Could you recommend me a smaller capable and reasonably price flash? There is one I'm considering called Metz 26AF-1 on Metz 26AF-1 Digital Flash for Pentax P-TTL / Remote TTL (Slave), GN 85' MZ 2631796P but couldn't tell if its good enough.
Views: 3,558
08-02-2016, 02:35 PM   #2
Site Supporter
enoeske's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Surprise, Az
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 1,888
QuoteOriginally posted by talkskiwon Quote
Hello. I am in search of a flash for K-3, but it seems like most flash are bigger than I imagined. Could you recommend me a smaller capable and reasonably price flash? There is one I'm considering called Metz 26AF-1 on Metz 26AF-1 Digital Flash for Pentax P-TTL / Remote TTL (Slave), GN 85' MZ 2631796P but couldn't tell if its good enough.
What do you plan to use the flash for?
08-02-2016, 02:37 PM   #3
Forum Member




Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 90
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by enoeske Quote
What do you plan to use the flash for?
I'm a beginner, so mostly to take portrait of my friends at night outside or low light situations.
08-02-2016, 02:39 PM   #4
Junior Member




Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 34
and the second question is whether you are comfortable working with a manual flash or want TTL

08-02-2016, 02:42 PM   #5
Forum Member




Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 90
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by mnaah Quote
and the second question is whether you are comfortable working with a manual flash or want TTL
I do not have any experience with flash on DSLRs or any advanced photography. In fact, my main goal of having a flash would be learning how and when to use flash.
08-02-2016, 02:55 PM   #6
Site Supporter




Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North-East England
Posts: 73
I would always want a flashgun that has tilt AND swivel in the head, as well as one that has manual as well as PTTL. Point and shoot flash is just too hard in most cases when all you want to do is just "lift" parts of the image. Personally, I'd spend the extra $10 and buy the 36AF-5. When you get into using flash and become more confident in it. having a more flexible flashgun is VERY useful. I tend to use flash on manual with wireless triggers for lots of stuff. If you can find one second-hand then a 48 AF1 or 48AF2 is also a good starting place as well. Is it a K3 or a K3 II? The K3 has a built-in pop-up flash gun which can be used to trigger other guns. The 48AF1 can act as a slave from memory (not done it for a long time and now use 58AF1s instead with cactus wireless triggers).

It comes down to what you want to do with it and how much you want to learn. Have a look on some of the strobist websites for guidance.
Strobist: Lighting 101 is a site I've found to be very useful in the past... There's lots of starter information and more advanced information on there as well.

Knowing how to use flash manually is the best way of learning as you then understand what is important in shooting flash and the different effects. It is about why you've got a K3 rather than a simple point-and-shoot.

As you admit you've got no experience of advanced protography, I'd suggest that you start shooting without flash first of all and get to grips with how aperture/ISO/shutter speed affect the image you are taking. With flash, it changes the dimensions of taking images quite a bit as the aperture tends to rule more than the other two.

Welcome to photography and the fun of making images!

Last edited by eonb; 08-02-2016 at 03:16 PM.
08-02-2016, 03:22 PM   #7
Forum Member




Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 90
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by eonb Quote
I would always want a flashgun that has tilt AND swivel in the head, as well as one that has manual as well as PTTL. Point and shoot flash is just too hard in most cases when all you want to do is just "lift" parts of the image. Personally, I'd spend the extra $10 and buy the 36AF-5. When you get into using flash and become more confident in it. having a more flexible flashgun is VERY useful. I tend to use flash on manual with wireless triggers for lots of stuff. If you can find one second-hand then a 48 AF1 or 48AF2 is also a good starting place as well. Is it a K3 or a K3 II? The K3 has a built-in pop-up flash gun which can be used to trigger other guns. The 48AF1 can act as a slave from memory (not done it for a long time and now use 58AF1s instead with cactus wireless triggers).

It comes down to what you want to do with it and how much you want to learn. Have a look on some of the strobist websites for guidance.
Strobist: Lighting 101 is a site I've found to be very useful in the past... There's lots of starter information and more advanced information on there as well.

Knowing how to use flash manually is the best way of learning as you then understand what is important in shooting flash and the different effects. It is about why you've got a K3 rather than a simple point-and-shoot.

As you admit you've got no experience of advanced protography, I'd suggest that you start shooting without flash first of all and get to grips with how aperture/ISO/shutter speed affect the image you are taking. With flash, it changes the dimensions of taking images quite a bit as the aperture tends to rule more than the other two.

Welcome to photography and the fun of making images!
Thank you for the link and the flash. I just learned that the flash you recommended is the cheapest one that comes with IR focus. The one I had in mind didn't have it. Before I get more mixed up though, I would like to ask...do every photographer needs a flash? I plan to take most photos in very bright day light conditions to good light indoor situations. The motivation to buy a flash only started to roll because I am going on a trip at the end of this month.

Last edited by talkskiwon; 08-02-2016 at 03:44 PM.
08-02-2016, 04:23 PM   #8
Site Supporter




Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: North-East England
Posts: 73
It is one of these things that is REALLY convenient to have. It can lift shots when taking them outside as you don't want your subjects to be squinting into the sun so would have the sun behing the people you're shooting. I'd spot meter off the subject's skin and then fire a small amount of flash at the subject to give "sparkle" in someone's eye's and lift shadows.
Indoor often isn't as bright as you think it actually is and being able to have some extra lighting (indirect ideally) is extremely useful.

08-02-2016, 04:39 PM   #9
Pentaxian




Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: NY
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 1,917
The first Pentax flash that I had, which has P-TTL and wireless off camera capability, was the Pentax AF360FGZ. I have three of them now, and have never had a problem with them. It is simple to use and is fully Pentax compatible.

https://www.amazon.com/Pentax-AF360FGZ-PENTAX-Auto-Flash/dp/B000A4ZN3K/ref=s...entsx+af360fgz
08-02-2016, 04:40 PM - 1 Like   #10
Loyal Site Supporter
clackers's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne
Photos: Albums
Posts: 7,712
QuoteOriginally posted by talkskiwon Quote
do every photographer needs a flash? I plan to take most photos in very bright day light conditions to good light indoor situations.

Well, you should, if you will take portraits in sunlight, Talkskiwon.


If your subjects face into the light, they squint, if the sun's high, their eyes are hidden in the shadows of their sockets. They have to face away from the light and you fill the shadows with flash to taste. You should look for an HSS-capable flash that can deal with the shutter speeds of bright days.
08-02-2016, 05:00 PM   #11
Forum Member




Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 90
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Well, you should, if you will take portraits in sunlight, Talkskiwon.


If your subjects face into the light, they squint, if the sun's high, their eyes are hidden in the shadows of their sockets. They have to face away from the light and you fill the shadows with flash to taste. You should look for an HSS-capable flash that can deal with the shutter speeds of bright days.
Thanks all. Its great to ask forums and learn about simple basics. Otherwise I'd still be lost. Will look more into the HSS flash.
08-02-2016, 05:27 PM - 1 Like   #12
Loyal Site Supporter
clackers's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne
Photos: Albums
Posts: 7,712
QuoteOriginally posted by talkskiwon Quote
Thanks all. Its great to ask forums and learn about simple basics. Otherwise I'd still be lost. Will look more into the HSS flash.

Yep, a 'normal' flash can do this shot of mine from the weekend inside a studio, but to do it outside you need HSS. The backlight is a huge softbox.



Last edited by clackers; 08-03-2016 at 03:47 AM.
08-02-2016, 06:23 PM   #13
Forum Member




Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 90
Original Poster
All in all, AF360FGZ II looks like it gets the job done for the most part of the capabilities demanded by advises above. But, comes in much higher price than I initially anticipated.
08-02-2016, 07:52 PM   #14
Loyal Site Supporter
clackers's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Melbourne
Photos: Albums
Posts: 7,712
QuoteOriginally posted by talkskiwon Quote
All in all, AF360FGZ II looks like it gets the job done for the most part of the capabilities demanded by advises above. But, comes in much higher price than I initially anticipated.

There are some Metzes and Sigmas that will do much the same thing cheaper, but I can't comment on any problems they might have.

Last edited by clackers; 08-02-2016 at 07:57 PM.
08-02-2016, 11:01 PM   #15
Pentaxian
Paul the Sunman's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 1,124
Definitely look at P-TTL capable flashes, and something that can tilt and swivel. However, if you start to get more serious, you may also want to use it off-camera. You can't do that with the K3 II because it doesn't have a pop-up flash to trigger the external (unless you fit radio triggers or use a cable). So, down the track, you may want to have two flashes, one on-camera to act as a trigger (master or controller), and one off-camera to act as a slave. Many (not all) P-TTL flashes can be slaves, but not all can be masters/controllers. The Metz 26 you mentioned can only be a slave. You would be up for more cash later if you want to add a master (e.g. Pentax 360 II or Metz 52 AF-1).

The Pentax AF360 II can do off-camera HSS; the Metzes cannot. Apart from that, they have all the same features. I have the Metz 52 AF-1; it's great, and powerful. I have a Pentax 360 II on order to be the master on my K1.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
flash, flash for k-3, k-3, metz
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First things to do when a new K-3 ii arrives? talkskiwon Pentax K-3 7 07-05-2016 04:13 PM
TTL Flash for my Pentax K-3 II zzz11 Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 28 03-20-2016 11:58 AM
AF540FGZ II + K-3 Flash issue bebotette Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 12 10-08-2015 06:23 AM
K-3 II, external flash with manual lenses Dr. Zee Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 8 08-16-2015 01:34 PM
K-3 II First Look Belnan Pentax News and Rumors 77 04-25-2015 01:25 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:06 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top