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Tutorial: Repair E-Dials Pentax K7 / K5 / K5II / K3 and possibly others
Posted By: photogem, 01-10-2021, 03:31 AM

For: K7 / K5 / K5II /K5IIs / K3 / K3II (most likely KP as well)

The E-Dials of the professional Pentax bodies are different to those in the entry cameras.
I haven't checked yet on the K30/50/500 nor K-S1/K-S2/K-70 but those will either be similar as you can read in THIS TUTORIAL or similar to the K5/7/3 etc.

Disassembling is very easy because with the K7 and K3 only the TOP needs to come off for both E-Dials.
For the K5-Series the top-cover off will only give you access to the back E-Dial!

For the front-E-Dial of the K5-series
read HERE for more detailed instructions

Best to make some simple drawings or print photos of all sides and glue those onto a piece of cardboard.
Markings where the screws are located, pinch 2mm holes and then stick the screws inside there.
Tools:

- JIS 00 or 000 screwdriver: I use the Vessel 9902-set because I like the length which is usefull for the solenoid repairs as well as for the screw inside the battery-chamber. I don't like the Vessel T-Series very much, too flimsy and not strong enough. But a PH00 will do as well!

- DeoxIT FaderLube: But no contact cleaner. Avoid like hell!
- very small flat-blade screwdriver if you want to clean the ISO and EV buttons as well (which is sensible)


Warning: Although the contacts of the flash-condensor are well hidden behind the front-cover and thus there is not the usual shock-hazard as when the body is completly disassembled: Do not poke around in the flash-region itself, neither swallow the Li-Ion battery nor any other parts, because this might lead to different hazards which you definitely want to avoid! Not so if you work on the front E-Dial of the K5 Series. But this is explained in the given link!


1. Two screws behind the rubber eyecup:


2. Open pop-up-flash: Two screws there:


3. One screw deep inside the battery-chamber:


4. Two screws right side (grip):


5. Three screws left side (one is hidden underneath the rubber = green arrow):


Here the hidden one again (left red arrow):

You don't need to unscrew the one right behind the X-Sync-Socket (blue arrow) ! Only necessary if you want to take the front off!)

Now you can lift the TOP of your Pentax but be carefull, there are wires and flat-ribbon-cables!
Carefully place it on the left side without bending/hurting the cables/wires! Not difficult, just some care needed.

6. Three screws for the Top-LCD:


7. Two screws for the "Back-E-Dial":


8. Two screws for the "Front-E-Dial":


9. E-Dial:


- Spray a tiny amound of "DeoxIT FaderLube" onto this tiny potentiometer which sits on the green board.

- Clean leftovers right away off and mount it back onto the wheel with the 2 screws, turn the wheel several times into both directions!

- Same procedure for the front-E-Dial (I would always do both, even if it is just one not working alright!)


10. As you are already that far and the top-cover is lose, you now can clean the EV- and ISO-Buttons as well,
remove the three screws and clean them just with some isopropyl-alcohol or similar:

Each button is fixed with a tiny retaining ring (radial e-clip). You just losen it with a tiny flat-blade screwdriver and make sure, it doesn't jump off!
So this white blanket under the camera is a good idea.


Of course it makes sense to clean the ON/OFF-SWITCH at the same time at the same time with isopropyl-alcohol as well:
Use a cotton-swab and rub the lower-part carefully, another cotton-swap for those 3 fingers with 2 contact-points on each but only from the back to the front, so that you avoid bending them! They are a bit sensitive and must stay exactly in their position! Not that one bends them easely but they are made out of gold-plated beryllium-copper (spring-copper) which is strong and durable but I have seen some bent ones, then they need to be replaced. So just some care is needed.

Re-assemble everything

and enjoy how smooth the E-Dials work again!

Last edited by photogem; 02-06-2021 at 03:18 AM.
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01-12-2021, 07:27 PM   #16
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cleaning instructions

While I hope that I do not ever need this information, I am very pleased and thankful to see that someone has taken the time and effort to create this document. Thank you.

01-13-2021, 01:26 PM   #17
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Here in the UK, I've been using Servisol Super 10 for decades. It's fantastic with rotary and slider potentiometers. Whether it's the right kind of cleaner, I can't say, but it's one of the best known products here with electronics enthusiasts. If it's the wrong thing to use, it's been working perfectly for me for years...

---------- Post added 13-01-21 at 20:31 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
It is long time ago that I completly disassembled an *istD or *istDS but in a few days a defunct Samsung GX1s shall arrive which is similar to the *istDS2. So I will check about the access for those trimmer potentiometers.
If my memory didn't "fade" I think it is more complex and different to the K100D.
But I could be wrong.
Thank you very much, Heinrich! Any further info would be much appreciated, as always...

QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
About Vessel JIS screwdrivers. I use the long Vessel 9902 which are very different to the T-Series by Vessel.
I need their length for the solenoid repairs and am very happy with them. Never had any problems.
I have highly rated Wiha Picofinish PH0, 00, 000 here as well Facom Microtech.
But those are PH and not JIS. The Moody Tools JIS-set I cannot recommend. Inferior to Vessel 9902.
Ah, right. Yes, the 9902's are indeed much more robust than the T-series...
01-13-2021, 02:55 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
.... in a few days a defunct Samsung GX1s shall arrive which is similar to the *istDS2. So I will check about the access for those trimmer potentiometers.
Thank you very much, Heinrich! Any further info would be much appreciated, as always....
Will take longer, person is on holidays and back end of Jan.
but I'll keep you informed.
01-14-2021, 09:59 AM   #19
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stucked EV compensation button

Dear Author,
Iím so glad I found this post. I appreciate this help, so I might try to fix the camera (K5) problem as well.It is the stucked Ev compensation value button.
If I press it it detects. But it doesnít jump back, I have to pull it out so I can push it in again.Should I disassemble the camera as shown here for repair?
Thank you in advance for any advice!
Peter

01-14-2021, 03:10 PM   #20
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Welcome to the forum.

Yes, the EV button can get stuck due to dirt.

Same for the ISO button.
Both are fixed with 2 screws which are easy accessable when the top-cover is removed.
There is nothing that can really go wrong, just clean it and that's it.

So when you take the 2 screws of for the EV button, the middle one between the ISO and EV button anyway is for both
so you take the third screw off as well and clean the ISO button as well.
01-15-2021, 02:29 AM - 2 Likes   #21
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I have added a photo for those three screws of the ISO and EV button into the tutorials plus descrition how to clean the ON/OFF button as well as one has perfect access to it!
01-15-2021, 05:35 AM   #22
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Thanks for the tutorial, I have a damaged K- 5 that might benefit from trying this out, I have little to lose.
01-15-2021, 10:30 AM   #23
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Thanks for the tutorial.
I'll use this as the basis for my old K-x

01-15-2021, 12:29 PM   #24
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Fantastic!
I'm impressed. It's encouraging.
I'm thankful
01-15-2021, 09:23 PM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by AceOfHobbes Quote
Thanks for the tutorial.
I'll use this as the basis for my old K-x
The Pentax K-x is different, I wrote a tutorial for it as well:
Tutorial E-Dial (Thumbwheel) Repair Pentax K-x K-m (2000) and K-r - PentaxForums.com
01-16-2021, 07:01 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
The Pentax K-x is different, I wrote a tutorial for it as well:
Tutorial E-Dial (Thumbwheel) Repair Pentax K-x K-m (2000) and K-r - PentaxForums.com
Thanks. I'll be sure to check out

01-24-2021, 06:14 AM - 2 Likes   #27
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K7 repaired!

Thank you so much! Brilliant!
Just fixed my 13years-old K7 today following your amazing description.

As I did not have any troubles with the dials, I did not touch them, but the ISO and x/- buttons did not move anymore so that they were unusable for at least 2 years now.

A PH00 screwdriver was just fine, for cleaning I took isopropyl-alcohol (only the buttons).
I even had to remove the snap rings of the bottons and dissassemble the mechanics -think that was the tiniest micro-mechanics I ever did, but it worked!


Re-assembled and everything is fine again!
01-25-2021, 01:41 AM   #28
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Yes, the ISO and EV button are a bit sensitive over longer periods (or good use) due to dirt because the body is WR and thus well sealed.
The same applies at times to the release-button and ON/OFF-switch.
One can clean this one under warm to slightly hot watter if one takes good care of the body.
But cleaning it when the top is off is the best.
02-05-2021, 07:16 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by rangercarp Quote
I have a k5IIs with a malfunctioning mode dial. Would this work for fixing that as well?
I had missed your post:
The "Mode-Dial" is different, more complex but it just needs to be disassembled with good care.
I have repaired on from a K10D but that is long time ago.

Take photos, don't bend the tiny "fingers", clean just with alcool and those "fingers" in direction of their lose ends only.

Last edited by photogem; 02-08-2021 at 09:35 AM.
02-16-2021, 08:11 PM   #30
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Thanks for the tutorial!
I will try it in the upcoming weeks for fixing the ON/OFF button of my K-5 II that has been stuck and difficult to turn for almost 2 years now. Hope I am able to do it well.
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