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For: K7 / K5 / K5II /K5IIs / K3 / K3II (most likely KP as well)

The E-Dials of the professional Pentax bodies are different to those in the entry cameras.
I haven't checked yet on the K30/50/500 nor K-S1/K-S2/K-70 but those will either be similar as you can read in THIS TUTORIAL or similar to the K5/7/3 etc.

Disassembling is very easy because with the K7 and K3 only the TOP needs to come off for both E-Dials.
For the K5-Series the top-cover off will only give you access to the back E-Dial!

For the front-E-Dial of the K5-series read HERE for more detailed instructions

Best to make some simple drawings or print photos of all sides and glue those onto a piece of cardboard.
Markings where the screws are located, pinch 2mm holes and then stick the screws inside there.
Tools:

- JIS 00 or 000 screwdriver: I use the Vessel 9902-set because I like the length which is usefull for the solenoid repairs as well as for the screw inside the battery-chamber. I don't like the Vessel T-Series very much, too flimsy and not strong enough. But a PH00 will do as well!

- DeoxIT FaderLube: But no contact cleaner. Avoid like hell!
- very small flat-blade screwdriver if you want to clean the ISO and EV buttons as well (which is sensible)


Warning: Although the contacts of the flash-condensor are well hidden behind the front-cover and thus there is not the usual shock-hazard as when the body is completly disassembled: Do not poke around in the flash-region itself, neither swallow the Li-Ion battery nor any other parts, because this might lead to different hazards which you definitely want to avoid! Not so if you work on the front E-Dial of the K5 Series. But this is explained in the given link!


1. Two screws behind the rubber eyecup:


2. Open pop-up-flash: Two screws there:


3. One screw deep inside the battery-chamber:


4. Two screws right side (grip):


5. Three screws left side (one is hidden underneath the rubber = green arrow):


Here the hidden one again (left red arrow):

You don't need to unscrew the one right behind the X-Sync-Socket (blue arrow) ! Only necessary if you want to take the front off!
But if ever you want to take the front off: There are two wires connected to the X-Sync-Socket. You then also need to unscrew another screw holding the tiny circuit-board behind that socket with those 2 wires! Then you pull the circuit board off and only then you can take the front off!


Now you can lift the TOP of your Pentax but be carefull, there are wires and flat-ribbon-cables!
Carefully place it on the left side without bending/hurting the cables/wires! Not difficult, just some care needed.

6. Three screws for the Top-LCD:


7. Two screws for the "Back-E-Dial", here the K7, which is slighly different to the K5 and K3:




8. Two screws for the "Front-E-Dial"
a) K-7:




b) K-5 and K-3:


c) One screw on the backside of the Front-E-Dial:



9. The E-Dial taken off (showing the ALPS-plastic-film-conductor potentiometer):



- Spray a tiny amound of "DeoxIT FaderLube" onto this tiny potentiometer which sits on the green board. This is important, don't use any other stuff because only this quite expensive FaderLube is designed for plastic-film potentiometers! I tried once a high quality spray (Contact-Gold-2000) designed for normal potentiometers on a K-7 and after a few month the problem was worse: As far as I know DeosIt FL is the only one clearly defined for film-potentiometers. So really don't be mean there but get the proper stuff!

- Clean leftovers right away off and mount it back onto the wheel with the 3 screws, turn the wheel several times into both directions!

- Same procedure for the front-E-Dial (I would always do both, even if it is just one not working alright!)


10. As you are already that far and the top-cover is lose, you now can clean the EV- and ISO-Buttons as well,
remove the three screws and clean them just with some isopropyl-alcohol or similar:

Each button is fixed with a tiny retaining ring (radial e-clip). You just losen it with a tiny flat-blade screwdriver and make sure, it doesn't jump off!
So this white blanket under the camera is a good idea.


Of course it makes sense to clean the ON/OFF-SWITCH at the same time at the same time with isopropyl-alcohol as well:
Use a cotton-swab and rub the lower-part carefully, another cotton-swap for those 3 fingers with 2 contact-points on each but only from the back to the front, so that you avoid bending them! They are a bit sensitive and must stay exactly in their position! Not that one bends them easely but they are made out of gold-plated beryllium-copper (spring-copper) which is strong and durable but I have seen some bent ones, then they need to be replaced. So just some care is needed.

Re-assemble everything

and enjoy how smooth the E-Dials work again!

I wrote a "DSLR-Specific" tutorial for each of them:
K-5 and K-7
K-3

[photogem]

Thanks for the tutorial!
I will try it in the upcoming weeks for fixing the ON/OFF button of my K-5 II that has been stuck and difficult to turn for almost 2 years now. Hope I am able to do it well.

For cleaning the "ON/OFF switch" and the "Shutter-Release-button" I wrote an extra tutorial:
Manual/Repair/clean On-Off-Switch / Shutter-Release-Button - PentaxForums.com

I have tried myself the warm-water-method but never was really happy with it.
The difference when such a switch/button is well cleaned is immediately noticable.


Maybe take photos when you do it an let us know (in the other tutorial of course)!

When your K5II is open, I would then anyway also clean those 2 dials with some compressed air and give them that tiny amount of DeoxIT Faderlube. Although expensive, I think it is worth it.

[photogem]

Added information in this text with more photos showing the difference between the front-E-Dial K7 and K5/3!

The information provided by D.H.Cook using only DeoxIT FaderLube proved to be very right and is of utmost importance!

I had cleaned the front E-Dial of a Pentax K-7 with a tunerspray and the problem came back but worse!

Luckily I had another E-Dial for replacement which I treated with the Deoxit-spray and it works perfect since!

Tunerspray and other contact-cleaners are as D.H.Cook mentioned not designed for plastic-conductive potentiometers and will speed up their decay!

[Dale H. Cook]

Tunerspray and other contact-cleaners are as D.H.Cook mentioned not designed for plastic-conductive potentiometers and will speed up their decay!

I do know a thing or two about electronic troubleshooting and repair after sixty years of working with electronics.

[photogem]

I do know a thing or two about electronic troubleshooting and repair after sixty years of working with electronics.

I'm sure you do. The only difficulty is that in Europe we don't have access to lubes etc popular in USA.
Shipping is very expensive. In the EU there is VAT on top (19/20%), in Switzerland 7.7%. Plus often an extra charge for bringing it through customs.

So a $ 3 lube can turnout with shipping costs of $ 17 + fee = $ 30!
So one has to find similar products manufactured there.

[Dale H. Cook]

So one has to find similar products manufactured there.

Good luck on that. Just be sure you use a quality product from a well-established manufacturer which is designed for the purpose that you intend it for, and that probably will be pricey. Chemicals are unforgiving, and using the wrong one could easily damage your Pentax.

[StigVidar]

So one has to find similar products manufactured there.

Do you know of any? There is Kontakt 61 ( KOC WebSite: Product Detail ) , but I cannot say anything about it. Deoxit Faderlube is next to impossible to buy in Norway and the cost from US is around $100. It would probably be cheaper to find new parts instead.

[photogem]

Do you know of any? There is Kontakt 61 ( KOC WebSite: Product Detail ) , but I cannot say anything about it. Deoxit Faderlube is next to impossible to buy in Norway and the cost from US is around $100. It would probably be cheaper to find new parts instead.

I'm afraid no.

I could not find a clear sheed with components.
Because that is the law in the EU and Switzerland one cannot buy it anymore.
I was only able to find the safety-sheet.

CRC is another manufacturer maybe worth to check out:

You Tube

You Tube

I had no time yet to look at that video but will do so soon.
Just found it today.

[StigVidar]

I will try Kontakt 61 and if it fails, I will replace the encoder. I already have the parts in another broken camera.

[photogem]

I will try Kontakt 61 and if it fails, I will replace the encoder. I already have the parts in another broken camera.

I don't think Kontakt 61 is the correct spray. It contains white petroleum which shouldn't come into contact with conductive plastic.
Kontakt 60 is worse, it will for sure damage.
Tuner 600 is good for switches but if contacts have that ultrathin goldcover through electro-plating that can be destroyed.
It contains naphta which is a very thin oil, it does leave a residue opposed to what they claim.
I had tried it on an UV Filter and it was clear that you have an oily residue.


I think that when conductive plastic is worn, it is best to replace it, even Deoxit will only better it for a time.

A better alternative might be TESLANOL-T6-OSZILLIN
which often is recommended in recordingstudio-forums.
But one has to be very careful, people are very quick with none-researched recommendations.
People love to give advice and these days are often way to quick with it.

Most wouldn't understand even the difference between faders or potentiometers using different conductive materials.
What some do is to spray first isopropyl alcohol and then spray on a "Dry film lubricant"
Possibly the best alternative!

[StigVidar]

I don't think Kontakt 61 is the correct spray. It contains white petroleum which shouldn't come into contact with conductive plastic.
Kontakt 60 is worse, it will for sure damage.
Tuner 600 is good for switches but if contacts have that ultrathin goldcover through electro-plating that can be destroyed.
It contains naphta which is a very thin oil, it does leave a residue opposed to what they claim.
I had tried it on an UV Filter and it was clear that you have an oily residue.


I think that when conductive plastic is worn, it is best to replace it, even Deoxit will only better it for a time.

A better alternative might be TESLANOL-T6-OSZILLIN
which often is recommended in recordingstudio-forums.
But one has to be very careful, people are very quick with none-researched recommendations.
People love to give advice and these days are often way to quick with it.

Most wouldn't understand even the difference between faders or potentiometers using different conductive materials.
What some do is to spray first isopropyl alcohol and then spray on a "Dry film lubricant"
Possibly the best alternative!

Thanks for the information.

Do you know how to get the e-dial assembly out of the camera. Is there a screw behind the rubber on the grip?

[photogem]

I will check, have to go to my storage place for spare parts.

[photogem]

Just those 2 screws on the main chassis:

[photogem]

Good luck on that. Just be sure you use a quality product from a well-established manufacturer which is designed for the purpose that you intend it for, and that probably will be pricey. Chemicals are unforgiving, and using the wrong one could easily damage your Pentax.

Almost 2 years since you brought me to "DeoxIT FaderLube" which here in Europe is quite expensive.

I have searched quite a bit to find a similar alternative but there seems to be none.

I have used DeoxIT FaderLube several times now (also often for potentiometers made by ALPS, Noble and AudioNote UK for Audiogear) and it works very well.
And yet with some ALPS potentiometers I had to disassemble them and give them a good clean, which of course is not so easy with such tiny potentiometers used the the E-Dials in Pentax DSLRs. Considering that for example the ALPS "Black Beauty" costs now $ 129 (but only available with 250kohms and higher, the most liked 100kohms costs almost the same in used condition)

[Dale H. Cook]

Almost 2 years since you brought me to "DeoxIT FaderLube" which here in Europe is quite expensive.

I have searched quite a bit to find a similar alternative but there seems to be none.

I have used DeoxIT FaderLube several times now ...

I am glad that you like it. I work with broadcast equipment which often costs more than any Pentax camera, so I have to be very careful in choosing the chemicals which I use. I was a chemistry major before I found radio and switched to mass communications, so I may have a slight advantage in choosing chemicals.