[gpen]

So i have a k3 and have been shooting more video lately. I cant see anything on the lcd screen outdoors. I tried about everything including a magnifying loupe which works good except the magnification makes the screen grainy and i cant tell if its in focus or not.
Well i looked into external monitors and sounds like the best way to go. While looking through the options i saw a video about recording externally and bypassing in camera recording. Some field monitors can record video.
My big question that i cant find an answer to is this, does anyone know if the video you record externally is compressed? what i mean is does it go to the external recorder raw, or does it get compressed before sending?

[macman24054]

I use an external monitor on my K-5 and K-3. They work great. As far as I have been able to find out, the only video from the HDMI is mirroring what would be on the built in screen. I don't believe there is a way to turn off the screen overlay in video mode.

[automorphism]

Probably someone here will know this for sure but I believe the HDMI output from the K3 is not clean ... that is, there will be menu info like a countdown timer on it. It might also have reduced resolution, so not directly from the sensor as some cameras like the GH5. If that is the case then HDMI external recording is essentially impossible.

[gpen]

Probably someone here will know this for sure but I believe the HDMI output from the K3 is not clean ... that is, there will be menu info like a countdown timer on it. It might also have reduced resolution, so not directly from the sensor as some cameras like the GH5. If that is the case then HDMI external recording is essentially impossible.

Thanks for the helpful info. I can choose to have no info on the screen. I dont think there would be a problem there. I'm checking around to see if theres any info on if its a clean out. My suspicions say no, but it would be nice to know for sure. Lets say it sends the cameras processed out. Does that mean it would be compressed again on the external recorder. I dont have a micro hdmi or i would try it on my dvd recorder.
Gonna keep checking, and if i find out anything i'll post it.

[Auzzie-Phoenix]

You could record directly to a laptop using the HDMI output into a capture card device such as an elgato or avermedia usb capture, and use OBS studio or some other video software that can read from the capture device. It's the most expensive solution outside of purchasing an external monitor (unless you don't have a laptop), but it also gives more options such as the ability to livestream video or add overlays to videos for informatics and such which will make it a more versatile option in general.

[automorphism]

Thanks for the helpful info. I can choose to have no info on the screen. I dont think there would be a problem there. I'm checking around to see if theres any info on if its a clean out. My suspicions say no, but it would be nice to know for sure. Lets say it sends the cameras processed out. Does that mean it would be compressed again on the external recorder. I dont have a micro hdmi or i would try it on my dvd recorder.
Gonna keep checking, and if i find out anything i'll post it.

Well, it will be compressed on the external recorder again for sure since the external recorder is just taking the video stream and putting into a new video codec format. I think with the K5 (and older camera though), the output is just the same resolution as the Live View.....I don't know what the K3/K3ii is like but I think it will be pretty bad even compared to capturing internally.

[gpen]

Well, it will be compressed on the external recorder again for sure since the external recorder is just taking the video stream and putting into a new video codec format. I think with the K5 (and older camera though), the output is just the same resolution as the Live View.....I don't know what the K3/K3ii is like but I think it will be pretty bad even compared to capturing internally.

Ok, just checked the hdmi in menu. It has different resolutions to choose from. I'm guessing it has nothing to do with what resolution the video was recorded in, but what res you want to output it in?
As far as using a laptop. That would work fine except most of what i record is run and gun things outdoors. Thats why i wanted a recorder to go with the k3. I am ok with just an external monitor that doesnt record. After seeing that some monitors do record also, and the k3's somewhat lower quality, i thought id check into it. I have gotten some really good result though. Its real sensitive. Everything has to be perfect. I flatten the profile somewhat so the sky doesnt turn into bands of sick and blown out colors, and a little more detail is in the shadows. Trial and error produces pretty good stuff, especially when the focus is nailed.

[clackers]

Is it worth the hit, Gpen, at only the Live View resolution?

Record the video internally, and the sound externally, IMHO. Of course use a field monitor as necessary.

[gpen]

Is it worth the hit, Gpen, at only the Live View resolution?

Record the video internally, and the sound externally, IMHO. Of course use a field monitor as necessary.

I decided to buy a 7 inch monitor without the recorder. I dont want to lose any image quality. My main goal is to be able to see if its in focus. Probably will get about a 1000 nit brightness and a shade to block the sun. Its worth the money to me. I use an external mic now and record internally. Does pretty well for now. Might upgrade to an external audio recorder later. Theres nothing worse than bad audio. Thanks everybody. I learned alot here.

[clackers]

I decided to buy a 7 inch monitor without the recorder. I dont want to lose any image quality. My main goal is to be able to see if its in focus. Probably will get about a 1000 nit brightness and a shade to block the sun. Its worth the money to me. I use an external mic now and record internally. Does pretty well for now. Might upgrade to an external audio recorder later. Theres nothing worse than bad audio. Thanks everybody. I learned alot here.

For when you don't want to bring the monitor, consider a Hoodman loupe or clone.

[someasiancameraguy]

For when you don't want to bring the monitor, consider a Hoodman loupe or clone.

I second the loupe idea. Pentax cameras, despite how much I love them aren't really worth rigging up with monitors and other gizmos. You'll spend less money on the loupe and your overall setup will be lighter and the video output will be more stable as the loupe adds another contact point to your body.

[gpen]

I second the loupe idea. Pentax cameras, despite how much I love them aren't really worth rigging up with monitors and other gizmos. You'll spend less money on the loupe and your overall setup will be lighter and the video output will be more stable as the loupe adds another contact point to your body.

so here's what happened. I bought a andycine plus 5.5inch monitor. Got a good deal and it had a battery and charger. After goofing around with it for a couple days, and all the options on it, i decided that the histogram and focus peaking are the two i will normally use. The focus peaking works as its recording video.....YES. It has a waveform, but it only shows when i select all options. Theres alot on the screen then, too much. I havent found a way to use the waveform by itself. I does have false colors.....Kind of messy looking. I might end up liking it for certain things eventually.
As for the above statement, I was already thinking that before i saw the comment. There are times i will want to use both. The loupe works real good as another contact point, especially with a monopod and a ball head. This monitor will be good for when im focusing in and out alot while recording. It has five different colors and intensity. It does weaken when i start recording so i turn it up to its highest level. It is a little awkward but i'll get a system down. Might have to find a good fast wide angle with a big focus ring. Was testing mainly with 21mm limited. thin focus ring.

[someasiancameraguy]

so here's what happened. I bought a andycine plus 5.5inch monitor. Got a good deal and it had a battery and charger. After goofing around with it for a couple days, and all the options on it, i decided that the histogram and focus peaking are the two i will normally use. The focus peaking works as its recording video.....YES. It has a waveform, but it only shows when i select all options. Theres alot on the screen then, too much. I havent found a way to use the waveform by itself. I does have false colors.....Kind of messy looking. I might end up liking it for certain things eventually.
As for the above statement, I was already thinking that before i saw the comment. There are times i will want to use both. The loupe works real good as another contact point, especially with a monopod and a ball head. This monitor will be good for when im focusing in and out alot while recording. It has five different colors and intensity. It does weaken when i start recording so i turn it up to its highest level. It is a little awkward but i'll get a system down. Might have to find a good fast wide angle with a big focus ring. Was testing mainly with 21mm limited. thin focus ring.

Most video work, even for bright aperture will be shot at around F2.0 to 2.8 to make focus pulling a bit easier. Faster apertures will require more careful pulling which isn't always possible with modern lenses as they usually dont have hard focus stops (such as Pentax quickshift which require you to setup hard start/stop points on your follow focus), and also have short focus throw of around 80-110 degrees. Older manual focus or Cine lenses typically have throws of around 180 degrees. Keep this in mind when you search for lenses. You can also beef up the focus ring with adjustable gearing bands, making it easier to grip with your hands or to setup wireless focus systems such as the Tilta Nucleus Nano, which will allow you to build a full cage, gimbal, camera, monitor, mic, wireless focus ring, etc.

[gpen]

Most video work, even for bright aperture will be shot at around F2.0 to 2.8 to make focus pulling a bit easier. Faster apertures will require more careful pulling which isn't always possible with modern lenses as they usually dont have hard focus stops (such as Pentax quickshift which require you to setup hard start/stop points on your follow focus), and also have short focus throw of around 80-110 degrees. Older manual focus or Cine lenses typically have throws of around 180 degrees. Keep this in mind when you search for lenses. You can also beef up the focus ring with adjustable gearing bands, making it easier to grip with your hands or to setup wireless focus systems such as the Tilta Nucleus Nano, which will allow you to build a full cage, gimbal, camera, monitor, mic, wireless focus ring, etc.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, ive looked into alot of those things and bought some and tried some homemade prototypes. It gets to be too much stuff to carry around. Its too bad because a gimbal is what my old body needs to keep it steady. The last video i did was an outdoor car show. It was huge and i filmed for 6 hrs. I used a monopod with a ballhead and that helped tremendously. I use a tripod sometimes, but the mono is real easy to move around in a chaotic situation. I have seen tv lenses for sale. Does anyone know anything about them?

[someasiancameraguy]

Thanks for the info. Yeah, ive looked into alot of those things and bought some and tried some homemade prototypes. It gets to be too much stuff to carry around. Its too bad because a gimbal is what my old body needs to keep it steady. The last video i did was an outdoor car show. It was huge and i filmed for 6 hrs. I used a monopod with a ballhead and that helped tremendously. I use a tripod sometimes, but the mono is real easy to move around in a chaotic situation. I have seen tv lenses for sale. Does anyone know anything about them?

TV lenses are typically for ENG/EFP workflows, essentially direct video to live broadcast or something of a similar nature rather than quality footage. They typically come with dedicated electronic focus/zoom by wire systems. In essence this puts them in a similar workflow to blogger/content creator types that want to push content in minimal time / stream live. They are meant to cover a wide range of shooting scenarios coupled with smaller (1/3 2/3 inch) high sensitivity sensors, and are heavy, require adapters to pair with today's ILCs, as well as not fully utilizing even MFT 4/3 sensors. It's not worth the weight, pain of setup, and after you account in the converters and rigging to make them work, no longer economically feasible.

As to personal opinion you can arguably get better autofocus, image quality, and portability from MILCs, DSLRs, or bridge/compact cameras with PDAF that have HDMI out. Pair them with an HDMI transmitter or similar if you want to shoot untethered and broadcast live. My recommendation if you're really serious about getting good video at a budget and want to lighten the load, Pentax bodies are honestly very heavy and the footage quality is not up to spec. A super cheap setup such as a Canon 200D + 15-85 USM or 18-135 STM along with wireless HDMI transmitter, cage, etc, will only set you back around 600-700 USD total if you check the used market. Fully articulating touch screen, near perfect tracking AF, wide zoom range to fit a lot of shooting scenarios, and you can stream the HDMI footage to a laptop/computer for broadcasting. Other options exist for Fuji, Sony, Nikon as well.