[Terry C]

12 Megapixels is heaps. I still use my 14 year old 12 meg Nikon D90, and from that camera have sold framed photos enlarged to A2 size.

[tonyzoc]

Have you checked out Thom Hogan's reviews of Nikon cameras? I don't know a thing about Nikons, but they seem to have been his main interest for some years. His opinions have always seemed to me to be well-considered, reasonable, without a lot of hype.



https://bythom.com/reviews--books/dslr-camera-reviews--books.html

No but ill check it out. I usually check Ken Rockwell site as I have found his opinions pretty useful.

[reh321]

I would go for the D750. It's light and small, perfect for primes, SD cards instead of CF, and 24MP of resolution is plenty.
Those AF-Ds have enough resolving power, 12MP is too low.

I remember when - around 20 years ago - when I waited for a reasonably-priced 6mp camera, which would move me away from film.
In that light, 12 mp looks just fine.

[Fenwoodian]

I would balk at the low megapixel count, but the D700 was a (semi) Pro camera when introduced, so I'm sure it would work great. Personally I would dish out an extra 2 to 300 and get a used D800. three times the megapixels.

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My desktop computer sometimes is inadequate to process the giant RAW files I get from my Nikon Z6 camera. But no such problem with the RAW files I produce from my D700. For my use, 12MP is plenty!


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Last edited by Fenwoodian; 07-31-2022 at 03:10 PM.

[pinholecam]

I think it adds very little to what you already have, just a bigger chunk of camera.
The Pentax DSLR is generally better in most ways except the AF, after that, a mirror is a mirror, etc.
If it was a MILC, I can see the difference and advantages.

As with D700 and 12mp, I used to have a Canon 5D before any K1 was in the works.
Lovely output, especially the skin tones. Great focusing screen for manual focusing (EEF focus screen, IIRC ).
However, once I got a Sony A7 to adapt the lenses, I just stopped using it as the Sony did what I wanted with the added benefit of 24mp so I will not have any regrets if I need more IQ.

Personally, I think a D650 might be the best price wise and performance, but like I mentioned, adding a Nikon DSLR adds not much to the table.

[UncleVanya]

I think it adds very little to what you already have, just a bigger chunk of camera.

Personally, I think a D650 might be the best price wise and performance, but like I mentioned, adding a Nikon DSLR adds not much to the table.

Given the goal: using Nikon lenses already owned on. Nikon digital camera in addition to the film gear already in hand - it seems the only rational option is to find some Nikon DSLR and the d700 or d610 seem like a good budget option.

[Mbaez]

If the goal is to use AF-D with autofocus any Nikon Full Frame is the best and only choice.

[pimpim]

You will miss IBIS....

I was pondering about the appealing D700 sensor the other day, but for my unstable hands the lack of IBIS and iso use maxing out at about 3200 would make it too hard to use it in practice. I shot some inside shots with a non-ibis fuji and the beautiful zeiss 32mm 1.8 but at shutter times of 1/20 I have almost no keepers (I have very unstable hands).

Could get the VR lenses for the D700 but that makes the total price of the system go up (whereas the idea of a D700 would be cheap entry in FF), and also weight at the front, which doesn't help handling.

[hayavuk]

I shot some inside shots with a non-ibis fuji and the beautiful zeiss 32mm 1.8 but at shutter times of 1/20 I have almost no keepers (I have very unstable hands).

I'm not suggesting that my situation is the same as your as it probably isn't. I am hoping that how I got over mine might give you some ideas, though. I wasn't able to effectively hand-hold heavy gear for a long while. Then I started going to the gym and doing exercises. Now, 2kg of gear in one hand is not a big problem. After that, I was able to carry my Nikon D700 around without feeling like it's a burden.

If you cannot solve the problem with gear, maybe look at the other side of the issue? Work out the issues with your hands (if possible), or maybe find a different way of shooting that would net you more keepers (including redefining the "keeper")? I imagine that doing this would be a better investment than some gear that meets your requirements.

And apologies in advance, if I've touched on a sensitive topic for you. I can appreciate that some physical issues are not trivially solved.

On a completely separate note, I find that, if you can carry heavy gear, it tends to be more stable for two-handed shooting than light gear like Fuji cameras as the larger mass has more inertia. (Up to a limit, of course.) I would bet on more keepers from a 1/20s exposure from D700 (or K-1) compared to something like an X-T3.

[D1N0]

.


My desktop computer sometimes is inadequate to process the giant RAW files I get from my Nikon Z6 camera. But no such problem with the RAW files I produce from my D700. For my use, 12MP is plenty!


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Well that's why I upgraded my PC before I got the K-1 The Z6 is 'only' 24mp so an upgrade is overdue. Processing software that can directly use hardware acceleration from you Graphics card/chip will also help a lot.

[UncleVanya]

I was pondering about the appealing D700 sensor the other day, but for my unstable hands the lack of IBIS and iso use maxing out at about 3200 would make it too hard to use it in practice. I shot some inside shots with a non-ibis fuji and the beautiful zeiss 32mm 1.8 but at shutter times of 1/20 I have almost no keepers (I have very unstable hands).

Could get the VR lenses for the D700 but that makes the total price of the system go up (whereas the idea of a D700 would be cheap entry in FF), and also weight at the front, which doesn't help handling.

Rule of thumb is that 1/x seconds where x is full frame equivalent focal length. That’s about 1/50th of a second. You’re over 1 stop too slow to handhold to film standards. High resolution sensors demand even more. A full frame sensor will be a little more forgiving on the same focal length but not at the same perspective since the lens would need to be longer.

[pimpim]

I'm not suggesting that my situation is the same as your as it probably isn't. I am hoping that how I got over mine might give you some ideas,

Thanks for the suggestions! I have what's called an essential tremor. Believe it or not, one of the ways to lower the tremor is consumption of alcohol Being stressed and drinking coffee makes it worse.

I shot analog for a while, forcing me to use low isos, and there I used some of the breathing techniques and using the viewfinder against my eye as a stabilization point etc. The metal SLRs brought in a bunch of weight and also film is a lot more forgiving so it worked out a bit.

The thing is, with two young kids around, when the moment arises to make a nice picture it is usually when I have one hand available, need some weird shooting angle, and at bad light conditions that require an inconveniently long shutter time. There the weight of the camera can work against me, e.g. needing to hold it with an extended arm, though it would probably still dampen microjitters. Also I think that low megapixel density helps. Hence not so sure about ever moving to the K1/K1ii. Maybe I should at some point, when money starts flowing my way get the Sony A7siii with the pancake-ish lenses that exist for the system these days, relatively light, crazy high iso, low megapixel count, superfast AF, IBIS.

I like your idea of doing workouts, it will certainly help, also make me feel better, just need to get the time for it

[hayavuk]

The thing is, with two young kids around, when the moment arises to make a nice picture it is usually when I have one hand available, need some weird shooting angle, and at bad light conditions that require an inconveniently long shutter time.

Well, I think Fujifilm X100 series might be the perfect camera for you then. X100S (16Mpx), second generation, is great value, X100F (24Mpx) is even better but holds its price so it costs used as much as I've paid for it new! It's a fixed lens camera with a 35mm equivalent F2 lens mated to an Fuji's X-Trans sensor. It's great for people as it has face-detection, reasonably quick AF, and can shoot people in any light. It's color rendition is optimized for people, and AWB is amazing. Cranking the ISO all the way up to 12800 on the F is no issue, and I think S can take it up to 6400 no problem (I haven't used the latter myself). Unlike most other sensors, cranking the ISO up only results in minor loss of sharpness and no color blotching. I just set it to auto ISO and snap around. The noise is very pleasant, reminiscent of film grain (though, of course, not the same). It's a small camera, easy to hold with one hand, and store in a larger pocket or just carry it on a wrist strap. It has a hybrid OVF/EVF combination, where the OVF is a range-finder-style viewing window but with digital aids for focus and framing. Oh, and I know this is petty, but it's a sexy-looking camera.

Here's a street snap at ISO 25600 F4 1/40s with X100F (I don't normally shoot this high, but just showing that you get usable images even with such high ISO):

[pimpim]

Well, I think Fujifilm X100 series might be the perfect camera for you then. X100S, second generation, is great value, X100F is even better but holds its price so it costs used as much as I've paid for it new!

Yes, have been looking at the x100 model comparison table a lot love the idea of a viewfinder experience. Was also thinking of the X70/XF10 but especially the X70 has cult status and is heavily overpriced.
I had a GW690 so not new to fuji rangefinders
I'd go X100T: first with electronic rangefinder, and still has a 16MP sensor that should work out nicely for what I'm looking for.

No stabilization whatsoever though, so all I'd have to fight camera shake would be technique and fast shutter times. Indeed will start to shoot artsy black and white with the Fuji simulations at grainy high isos

[hayavuk]

No stabilization whatsoever though, so all I'd have to fight camera shake would be technique and fast shutter times. Indeed will start to shoot artsy black and white with the Fuji simulations at grainy high isos

I've used Olympus cameras which are well-known for their IBIS (a few levels above anything else, imo). I think for kids photos I'd take high ISO performance of the Fujis over IBIS every time (comparable to Pentax K-1 if not better, as K-1 tends to color-blotch). Having said that, Fuji X-S10 has both an ok IBIS (about the same as Pentax K series) and the great ISO perf. It's also reasonably light and has a flippy screen if that's your thing. No OVF though.