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03-15-2013, 09:19 AM   #1
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Good price for a Hasselblad 500cm system?

So I am "this" close to pulling the trigger on a Hasselblad 500cm camera system. I was just wondering if anyone had any input as to the value/cost of this package.

He is including:

-Hasselblad 500cm body
-(2) A 12 film backs
-A 45 degree viewfinder
- 60mm C T* Distagon f/3.5 lens
- 80mm C T* Planar f/2.8 lens
- 150mmC T* Sonnar f/4 lens
- A polaroid back

Looking at KEH and a few other sites.... it seems like a good deal. The gear is described as light used and very good condition. The body looks to be in great condition, and he gave me photos of the lenses wide open and they look good.








This will HAVE to be one of my last gear purchases for a while I will have a Pentax K5 system with the DA lens set / FA 50mm 1.4 and the DA* 50-135, a Fuji X100 for street shooting, a film K1000 SE for 35mm, and the Hasselblad for medium format.

Anyone has any input or tips on Hass gear feel free to chime in.

Thanks

03-16-2013, 09:59 AM   #2
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Ping Tuco or Digitalis. Both have experience with the Hassy system.
03-16-2013, 11:02 AM   #3
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From the pictures it seems that the camera and lenses are in very good condition.

Just close your eyes and go for it!

The IQ will blow your mind!
03-16-2013, 03:09 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I've never seen Digitalis post a film picture let alone one from a Hasselblad.
I suggested that based on comments he has made in the past.

Thanks for the suggestions to the OP.


Steve

03-17-2013, 09:40 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by _quicksilver_ Quote
Just close your eyes and go for it!
I pulled the trigger! Final price was $1150 for everything with shipping included. Compared to what I saw on KEH for this set of gear it seems like a pretty solid deal.....priced out piece buy piece I was looking at around $1700.

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Those C lenses look like they are from the early 70s and are T* which is good. They are a lot different looking than my CF T* lenses. I haven't kept up with prices.
From what I read on a variety of forums, the C T* lenses are very optically similar to the CF T* lenses...both have extra coating and perform very well. I was looking at getting newer lenses (namely the 80mm f/2.8), but that would have bumped up the price significantly....maybe there will be an upgrade in my future Everything that I've read and the photos I have viewed shows it's a great system. Not only in terms of quality, but also when it comes to durability and enjoyment of shooting. Your excellent photos only fueled the fire

The changeable film backs will be handy for sure....but I will just start out with using them for color/film or different ISO till I get my feet wet with the system. When you say "highlight compression" are you referring to a photo that is exposed for highlights and developed for blacks?

The gear should be in the mail and arriving later this week some time. While I started out in photography shooting 35mm, medium format will be a completely different realm for me. Looking forward to it, hope you don't mind a few questions coming your way every now and then

....love your Hass shot...I read that the 100mm f/3.5 is a cut above
03-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #6
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I've been trading Hasselblad gear for more than 12 years now and I would roughly assign these prices to what you bought:

-Hasselblad 500cm body ( $250 to $300 )
-(2) A 12 film backs ( $50 to $75 each )
-A 45 degree viewfinder ( this is either a pme5 or pme51. It usually shows on the bottom. A pme5 would go for $250 and a pme51 would go for $325 to $400 )
- 60mm C T* Distagon f/3.5 lens ( $200 to $300 depending on condition )
- 80mm C T* Planar f/2.8 lens ( $200 to $250 )
- 150mmC T* Sonnar f/4 lens ( $100 to $150 )
- A polaroid back ( some you can't give away but maybe $20 on this one )

Total = $1120 to $1570. I always say that the important thing is - what could you sell it for if you have to sell it. And you could sell it all and pretty much get all of your money back any time. So that's what makes Hasselblad gear such a great investment. It has maintained or even increased in value for many years. It's a SOLID investment.

I would note that the only problem with the older C lenses is that they no longer make parts for them. Haven't for years and the only parts left are parts that repair guys stored up. I know one guy who repairs the gear and last time I asked him he said he had plenty of parts for several years into the future. The plus side is that all Hasselblad gear was built so well that they don't typically have problems. One thing I'd check if I were you. Put the lenses on 1 second and see if they are pausing any. It's a common problem because so many times they sit on the shelves and do not get exercised. It's very important to exercise a Hasselblad lens on a regular basis or the internals get gummed up and they will need a CLA to the tune of about $150 per lens.

My two cents as someone who has bought and sold hoards of the gear over the years.
03-18-2013, 12:55 PM - 1 Like   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by hackphotographer Quote
...
I would note that the only problem with the older C lenses is that they no longer make parts for them. Haven't for years and the only parts left are parts that repair guys stored up.
...
Good point. A mechanism in My CF 50mm FLE broke and I was able to still get it fixed. And the bay 60 filter size on CF/CFi lenses means I can use my 67mm bayonet colored filters from my Pentax 6x7 system and they fit.
03-18-2013, 02:06 PM   #8
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True on the filters Tuco. But you can also buy a bay 50 to bay 60 adapter so that you could use those bay 60 filters onto the older bay 50 c lenses. They also make all types of bay 50 to ? adapters so that you can use other filters on the bay 50's as well. The 38mm, 50mm, and 60mm C, however, all have a series 63 screw on filter mount so whole other ball game. Though C lenses are quality built, if one can buy CF lenses at comparable prices I'd do it every time. Plus, all of the CF lenses are T* multicoated and only some of the C lenses were.

03-18-2013, 02:17 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by hackphotographer Quote
It's a SOLID investment
Im hoping so Maybe I should have contacted you to see if you had anything in stock I would like to shoot with this kit for years to come, but it's nice to know that Haselblads hold their value well. I was watching Ebay/Craigslist/KEH for a few months, finally I just had to pull the trigger. The C vs. CF was one thing I was really debating. I had read that parts for the C were no longer being made, but that for now it was a huge issue....let's hope that holds true. I hope not....but I may need to get your repair guys info. My choice with my budget was pretty much get a set of C T* lenses like the 60/80/150 I got, or get a body packaged with just the CF T* lens as it is more expensive. As I mentioned I may try and upgrade to the CF for the 80mm, which I presume will be my most used lens....but it will be nice to try out 60mm/150mm on medium format to get a feel for different focal lengths.

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I use a one-degree spot meter
What spot meter do use use, if you don't mind me asking. I was looking at a Minolta and Pentax spot meter...I believe the minolta is a one degree meter.

I have used ambient lights meters a bit...I don't have experience with spot meters, but I am looking forward to learning. Along with the actual gear itself, that is one reason I am looking forward to using the Hasselblad....understand light better and how to meter accurately.

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
You have to over expose and under develop
So when you are shooting scenes like this (high contrast)....exposing for shadows and compressing highlights, you dedicate a film back specifically for this type of shooting/developing? Does the under developing throw off any of your others exposures on that same roll?

Great stuff guys, I really appreciate the input.
03-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by abieleck Quote
My choice with my budget was pretty much get a set of C T* lenses like the 60/80/150 I got, or get a body packaged with just the CF T* lens as it is more expensive. As I mentioned I may try and upgrade to the CF for the 80mm, which I presume will be my most used lens....but it will be nice to try out 60mm/150mm on medium format to get a feel for different focal lengths.
Your 80mm is a T* and it will work great for you. Another thing to do is to open the shutter all the way in the lens and shine a flash light through each lens. This really tells the tale on the condition of the glass. Many of the old lenses have fine cleaning marks on them but not to any detriment of the photos. This, too, affects values.
03-18-2013, 02:28 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by abieleck Quote
I had read that parts for the C were no longer being made, but that for now it was a huge issue....let's hope that holds true. I hope not....but I may need to get your repair guys info.
His name is David Odess and he's well known among many Hasselblad users. Here is his website: Hasselblad camera repair, service, and sales by factory trained technician David Odess.

Of course Hasselblad in New Jersey still repairs everything as well. Their information is here: Contact

I can repair some simple things on the magazines. I common problem is that the film number will not stop at "1." I can fix that problem. My contact information is ebayspiritandtruth AT gmail DOT com if anyone needs any help with anything. I'm glad to help people even when they don't buy from me.
03-18-2013, 02:37 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by hackphotographer Quote
True on the filters Tuco. But you can also buy a bay 50 to bay 60 adapter so that you could use those bay 60 filters onto the older bay 50 c lenses.
...
So how does the lens hood fit over that configuration? I hate stepper rings for normal use. I'll only pull them out for the special, rarely used circumstances.
03-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
So how does the lens hood fit over that configuration? I hate stepper rings for normal use. I'll only pull them out for the special, rarely used circumstances.
Good point to note Tuco. If you need to use a hood then this is not an option.
03-18-2013, 02:50 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by abieleck Quote
...
What spot meter do use use, if you don't mind me asking. I was looking at a Minolta and Pentax spot meter...I believe the minolta is a one degree meter.
I have 3 one-degree spot meters. A Pentax Spotmeter V, a Pentax Digital Spotmeter ( I don't know what's digital about it though) and a Minolta Spotmeter F.

I'm very biased and don't like the digital LCD readout of the Spotmeter F at all. I don't use it. The analog dial on the Pentax spot meters are great for seeing all your options at a glance and counting stops when you slap on combinations of, say, an orange and 9 stop ND filter. You just meter as normal and then rotate the dial counting out the sum of stops to get your exposure. The Spotmeter F isn't really good at that and makes you do too much in your head and fumble with menu options.

The Pentax Spotmeter V is fine but big and bulky. The Pentax Digital Spotmeter is much smaller and will fit in your pocket but commands way too high of a price.

QuoteOriginally posted by abieleck Quote
So when you are shooting scenes like this (high contrast)....exposing for shadows and compressing highlights, you dedicate a film back specifically for this type of shooting/developing? Does the under developing throw off any of your others exposures on that same roll?
Yes, I devote a back to that type of shooting. And when using my Pentax 6x7 or Mamiya 7II rangefinder, I just have to shoot up that roll or yank it out early to load for regular film shooting.

To give you an example, I shoot Acros 100 at EI 12 and usually have a yellow filter on which means EI 6. And I shoot Delta 3200 at EI 400 and 400TMY at EI 50. I meter and place only my shadows. I cut the development time by nearly 1/2 and use a Pyro developer. It's called "minus-x" development and I don't think you can expect it to work with just any developer you might randomly grab.
03-19-2013, 06:49 AM   #15
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I have also Pentax spotmeter V and the digital one. Like Tuco said, the digital is smaller, and to my mind I prefer it for the smaller size. Nothing wrong with the V version though, they are both very good and reliable meters.

a question for Tuco:

What kind of Pyro developer do you use? I have a chance to get some Pyrocat HD from a local dealer and Im eager to try it out.
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