[ivoire]

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Last edited by ivoire; 04-30-2014 at 06:57 PM.

[ivoire]

I started using Faststone Image Viewer 5.1 to cull my x3f files. It allows full view of the image and is extremely fast at loading the x3fs and you can batch convert the images and its very nice for cropping and fixing small things like a tilted horizon. Once I've culled them, I use Sigma Photo Pro to make adjustments and convert to tifs as the Faststone converted images are not as sharp. I suspect that Sigma Photo Pro even set to zero is sharpening the image in tif conversion.

[bvg]

I suspect that Sigma Photo Pro even set to zero is sharpening the image in tif conversion.

Maybe it is "natural", it looks so. I can see how Sigma 17-50/2.8 is sharp in the central area and blurry at the edges.

News from Sigma-Rumors:

Sigma dp2 Quattro
The first camera to boast the new Foveon sensor should be available by mid-June (Source: product page at B&H Photo).

Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art
The Sony mount should be released in early May, and the Pentax mount in early June (Source).

Sigma 24-105mm f/4 DG OS HSM Art
The Canon mount is in stock at Adorama and B&H Photo (limited supply). The Sony mount is expected for late May or early June.
- See more at: http://sigma-rumors.com/2014/04/sigma-dp2-quattro-art-lenses-availability/#sthash.XvrdPGrZ.dpuf

[scratchpaddy]

P.S. I have to say that after this thread I feel like I know your dog

She's my favorite subject.

Scratchpaddy, the flat cacti on the left have aberrations around the edges. Correction failed? Or was not applied?

You know you're looking at a 3-pixel-wide band of purple, in a slightly defocused area, at f/1.8, on a zoom, on one of the most demanding APS-C sensors in existence? But it's just because I forgot to correct it. I went back into Lightroom and checked the box, and it went away. No worries!

Been to Amsterdam for a 'Hag'-'Do (Stag do but with the Bride)
I was traveling light so just the DP1X and DP3M with me.....

Wonderful set! That DP3M has some surprisingly nice bokeh. I love the people shots, and the smooth metal textures in the brewery.

I started using Faststone Image Viewer 5.1 to cull my x3f files. It allows full view of the image and is extremely fast at loading the x3fs and you can batch convert the images and its very nice for cropping and fixing small things like a tilted horizon. Once I've culled them, I use Sigma Photo Pro to make adjustments and convert to tifs as the Faststone converted images are not as sharp. I suspect that Sigma Photo Pro even set to zero is sharpening the image in tif conversion.

I've always shot raw + jpeg, and used the jpegs to cull out the bad shots. Same as with my Pentax shots. It's good to know that there's another program out there that can handle X3F's, though.

For sharpness, I used to do -2 in SPP, but I feel like -1 is a better middle ground now. Even then, I might add a tiny bit of noise reduction in Lightroom if the textures are too harsh.

---------- Post added 05-03-14 at 03:41 PM ----------

I tried the Helios 44 again at the park this morning. $30 lens on a $1800 camera, why not?

This was at f/2.8. I do like the rendering of the Foveon on old glass better than Bayer, texture-wise... I just wish it didn't have such terrible color cast issues.

[barondla]

Nice images everyone. Didn't know that Fastone viewer worked for Sigma. To make sure I understand, this works on the Raw files? I never shoot Raw + jpeg on the Sigma. I might fall asleep before the poor thing finished an exposure bracket or focus stack.
thanks
barondla

---------- Post added 05-04-2014 at 08:34 AM ----------

Invitation to check out the Compact Camera Forum and enter the photo contest. The contest is open theme so shoot and enter what you want. Show what the Sigmas are capable of.
thanks
barondla

[ivoire]

Nice images everyone. Didn't know that Fastone viewer worked for Sigma. To make sure I understand, this works on the Raw files? I never shoot Raw + jpeg on the Sigma. I might fall asleep before the poor thing finished an exposure bracket or focus stack.
thanks
barondla

It appears that it will open the"embedded" jpeg from the raw files which would explain the lower quality tif image that is produced when converted/saved by Faststone. I find it useful for reviewing my x3f images to determine the keepers/eliminate the duds. The program loads the images superfast which makes the initial screening process much faster/easier. Once i've finished culling the days shoot i open the images in Sigma Photo Pro for the initial edit/save.

Crop from sigma (top) and crop from Faststone for comparison The diff is slight but noticeable to pixelpeepers

[ivoire]

Competition anyone???

Ricoh GR invited to Point and Shoot Contest #78.
GR shooters are invited to enter the Point and Shoot Contest #78, in the compact cameras forum. This contest has an open theme. Shoot and enter what you want. Check out the forum, previous contests, and show us what the GR can do.
Hope to see your pictures
barondla

PS: We are also allowing the Sigma DP series if you shoot one of those.

[carrrlangas]

I´ll give it a try with my recent new toy: Sigma DP2 Merrill

[panzerfaustnl]

I find it really hard to shoot sharp pictures with the Sigma camera's, I don't know if it's me who is failing or the camera's. This one is done with the Sigma SD-10

[barondla]

Shot looks sharp panzerfaustnl. I find the handheld DP1Merrill difficult with sharpness. It seems to boil down to slow shutter speeds with no image stabilization and the AF system seems to be behind my other cameras. It is also hard to feel the exact moment the shutter will release. The shutter button seems to have a mlnd of its own. Ivoire shoots his DP2Merrill handheld a lot, withgreat results. Most of my shots are manual focus and tripoded.
thanks
barondla

[Rob01]

... panzerfaustnl I am a trained pixel peeper (I have my excuses for this), and the photo looks sharp to me as well... I think what is going on is that your depth of field is not large enough to take the whole girl/head/camera into focus... her hands are the sharpest part. Have a play with this thing and read the explanations: Online Depth of Field Calculator (You can notice that it is probably a depth of field issue because the sharpness varies more between front to back parts than across the frame)

I have played with my DP1M and managed to take just out the window shots (weather was nasty)... will attempt to process them next. I did not have a problem with the shutter release... but the screen is bad and the camera always complains about overexposure in the clouds... NO matter when or how I shoot. I think there is a LOT to learn with these cameras... but judging by the results here, it is WORTH IT So much so that I am holding off on buying any more from the DP#M series and am considering the SD1M with the 35mm Art.

[ivoire]

Looks good to me also. I can't shoot lower than 1/100thsec at iso 100 handheld and even then it's tricky. Your pic was at f2.8 so i would expect the image to lose a tad of sharpness (almost all lenses perform like that wide open). I often shoot a burst of 3 images using the sequential setting just to insure that at least one is sharp. I am hoping the DP Quattros intro will lower the DP1 and DP3 prices new and used as i'd like both. The closest to the DP1 is the GR. I may have to go with one instead. There's a guy on seriouscompacts.com that has a preset for lightroom to give the GR files the 'foveon ' look. It's pretty effective and he will give you a copy for the asking. Here's a link:

http://www.seriouscompacts.com/showthread.php?t=19568

[panzerfaustnl]

Ok, if that's true I will try to shoot some more and look at them. I thought that these sigma lenses where sharp in the center at 2.8, but soft at the edges.

[Rob01]

Ok, if that's true I will try to shoot some more and look at them. I thought that these sigma lenses where sharp in the center at 2.8, but soft at the edges.

Please check the depth of field for your shots... without getting this part correctly, you will not get all the parts of your shot sharp... NO matter what you do or how you shoot. The effect has nothing to do with lens sharpness or the lens you use... it is only affected by aperture, focal length and distance to the object.

[ivoire]

Please check the depth of field for your shots... without getting this part correctly, you will not get all the parts of your shot sharp... NO matter what you do or how you shoot. The effect has nothing to do with lens sharpness or the lens you use... it is only affected by aperture, focal length and distance to the object.

Thanks for the dof calculator.

---------- Post added 05-04-2014 at 08:59 PM ----------

Ok, if that's true I will try to shoot some more and look at them. I thought that these sigma lenses where sharp in the center at 2.8, but soft at the edges.

It didn't dawn on me what you were saying until Rob01 mentioned dof. It looks like you were 5-7ft from the girl when you took the shot (based on the dof in your image and camera settings). If your intent is to have the girl as "sharp" as the camera and her hands then you need to shoot at around f6.7-f8 (based on using the dof calculator) at 39mm, 5-7ft from her. Hope this helps.