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07-21-2014, 05:12 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
For right now. I have a Fujinon W 125mm F5.6 coming in a few days though.
As Tuco mentioned, wide starts at 90mm for 4x5 and the bad news is that any lens with reasonable coverage is not going to be small or light. Your Fujinon is a great lens though and will make for a very nice wide-normal.

Beyond the lens thing, that is a great camera and even better at that price point. Two thumbs up!!!


Steve

---------- Post added 07-21-14 at 05:15 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
I am looking for either a reis or Berlebach wood tripod to go with the camera.
Reis is nice

Sorry I could not resist. I too would love to have either of those, but I have been able to make due with more pedestrian support.


Steve

---------- Post added 07-21-14 at 05:19 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
I now use the "taco" method with a Patterson tank, developing 4 sheets at a time.
I did the taco method for awhile (also in a Patterson-style tank), but had problems with scratches on the Foma film. I migrated to a Unicolor paper drum on a motor base.

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I use this this HP Combi Tank show on the right.
How is the Combi for leaks? I thought of getting one, but it is no longer made


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 07-21-2014 at 05:22 PM.
07-21-2014, 05:53 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by VisualDarkness Quote
Tose scans looks amazing!
QuoteOriginally posted by OrangeKx Quote
Man, oh, man, those are some fantastic shots.
Thanks, you guys.

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
How is the Combi for leaks? I thought of getting one, but it is no longer made :

Steve
No leaks. I have been using one since, I dunno, 1994 or so. The issues with the tank is slow fill/drain of the fluid which is only critical for the developer and really if that makes or breaks your shot/exposure, you have some incredibly tight standards. It holds 6 sheets of 4x5 but only 4 at a time is really recommended to avoid contact in the holder.
07-21-2014, 08:59 PM   #33
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Well it took a while to work out, but here is the first shot from my new camera. This was shot on Foma 200 using a #25 red gel, exposed at 160 using the zone system. It was developed in Rodinal at 50:1 for 8 minutes.

Please ignore the streaking in the sky, that is an artifact of digitizing and stitching the image (I really need to pick up a negative scanner).

It was near noon with the sun overhead and not nearly as clear as normal, a decent amount of haze was in the air. Not a very good time to get the best out of photos, but it was still fun.

The other photos will have to wait until tomorrow. Now that I have a process worked out to digitize, they should be much faster to finish.

07-21-2014, 09:05 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colorado CJ Quote
Well it took a while to work out, but here is the first shot from my new camera. This was shot on Foma 200 using a #25 red gel, exposed at 160 using the zone system. It was developed in Rodinal at 50:1 for 8 minutes.

Please ignore the streaking in the sky, that is an artifact of digitizing and stitching the image (I really need to pick up a negative scanner).

It was near noon with the sun overhead and not nearly as clear as normal, a decent amount of haze was in the air. Not a very good time to get the best out of photos, but it was still fun.

The other photos will have to wait until tomorrow. Now that I have a process worked out to digitize, they should be much faster to finish.
Good work! A negative scanner will help a lot. The Epson 4990 is a good choice, though I could not find one when I was in the market. I bit the bullet and got an Epson V700 instead and am quite happy with its performance for with 120 and 4x5 negatives.


Steve

07-21-2014, 10:36 PM   #35
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Congrats on your first results.
07-21-2014, 10:42 PM   #36
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Are you using ICE on your scanner? I have found there are times when it helps reduce the amount of spotting and marks from using mineralised water( I use de-mineralised water when I wash my films) though there is an increase in scanning times.
07-21-2014, 10:46 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Digitalis Quote
Are you using ICE on your scanner? .
He doesn't have a scanner (yet) and ICE does not work on BW film.

07-21-2014, 11:17 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
He doesn't have a scanner (yet) and ICE does not work on BW film.
my god it would be wonderful if it did. Spotting scanned Tech pan 8X10 negatives from a 10,000 DPI drum scanner is no joke.
07-22-2014, 07:14 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by Digitalis Quote
my god it would be wonderful if it did. Spotting scanned Tech pan 8X10 negatives from a 10,000 DPI drum scanner is no joke.
Drum scanners use a fluid to mount the negative. That does a way better job at masking off the dust than a dry scan. But I'd think processing the resulting 100,000 x 80,000 pixel file would be just short of a nightmare and tax even the most patient of individuals in the slow processing time (especially if it's 48 bit color) on the computer.
07-22-2014, 08:20 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
tax even the most patient of individuals in the slow processing time (especially if it's 48 bit color) on the computer.
In music studios such tasks are best left to underlings, others 'medicate' to make it less painful to pass the time. I don't think taking vicodin and/or cocaine is a healthy solution for photographic post processing, but it has lead to some great art in the past!

Also your LF work looks amazing tuco, both you guys sell the format perfectly.
07-22-2014, 08:35 AM   #41
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yeah the wet mounting helps but there are always hairs or dust motes on highlights that have to be dealt with, and the sheer size of the files does make them very difficult to wrangle.

QuoteOriginally posted by bibz Quote
I don't think taking vicodin and/or cocaine is a healthy solution for photographic post processing
especially not when you are using a wacom graphics tablet.
07-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #42
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Here is the second photo I took on Sunday with the new camera.

I am finding better ways to digitize. This one shows no artifacts in the sky from stitching (I have to stitch 9 images together, making for a roughly 150 megapixel image).

It was still high noon though, so the photo doesn't have the character it would have if shot in the morning or evening.

07-23-2014, 08:37 AM   #43
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Looking better. Yeah, you need to get a scanner. That sounds like a lot of work to get something to display.
07-25-2014, 07:50 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Looking better. Yeah, you need to get a scanner. That sounds like a lot of work to get something to display.
Well, I broke down and ordered a v750 Pro. Besides taking a long time to dizitize the way I am, I don't think I am getting near the quality from the negatives I can with a scanner.

I've been wanting one for the past year or so, ever since getting into medium format film. It will also work well to digitize all my family's color slides.

I'm going to wait for the scanner to arrive before I post more images. I'll also rescan the two images posted here and see if I can get better detail.
07-25-2014, 09:54 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Perhaps in the mean time, go try some architecture. Good time to also work on some convergence/divergence correction using the camera's movements.
Yep! If you don't already have a copy, I can recommend Steve Simmons, Using The View Camera as well as Ansel Adams, The Camera. Adams, in particular has some useful notes regarding application of the view camera movements for use with landscapes and solutions for near/far.


Steve
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