[B Grace]

Three comments.

My FM2n isn't a quiet camera by any means but I'd say it is comparable in terms of noise to my K1000. It's a good camera but I can't say I like the LED meter readout.

I'd have to say my Nikkormat FT-3 reminds me more of an old F than my FM2n and it's no quieter than either. It's a solid brick of a camera though so it helps build confidence in the shooter. While the FT-2 I had years ago still had many of the original Nikkormat features such as the milled aluminum rewind knob which would slice your finger open if you caught it on the edge of the knob adjacent to the pop-up lever the FT-3 addressed most of the quirks about the Nikkormat line with the exception of the ISO rating slider on the shutter speed dial. I've developed the habit of checking the ISO rating setting every time I use the camera.

Finally, the FM3a seems like a great camera (I haven't owned one) and a great last hurrah for amateur Nikon film shooters but I have to wonder where the FM3a goes from here. Will it continue to be seen as a collector item or will folks just get down to business with shooting with them now and then. No used FE/FM series camera is truly worth $600+ US.

[patrick9]

FE/FM series camera is truly worth $600+ US.

Agreed.
I have now now an FE and FM2 with three lenses a non AI 55/3.5 micro, a 105/2.5 AI, and a 24/2.8 AI ,and a case. I have less than 100 USD tied up in the hole kit. including money spent on cleaning and parts. All have been bought in the last 2 months
The only metal body Pentax I have is a K-1000. While the 2 Nikons feel similar I now prefer to shoot them especially the FE.

My FM2n isn't a quiet camera by any means but I'd say it is comparable in terms of noise to my K1000. It's a good camera but I can't say I like the LED meter readout.

Is it normal for the led meter to time out? Mine does and have to half press the shutter to waken even when first turned on.

[patrick9]

I am trying to learn how to post from fliker. This is the 55 being reassembled from fungus cleaning

[B Grace]

Agreed.
I have now now an FE and FM2 with three lenses a non AI 55/3.5 micro, a 105/2.5 AI, and a 24/2.8 AI ,and a case. I have less than 100 USD tied up in the hole kit. including money spent on cleaning and parts. All have been bought in the last 2 months
The only metal body Pentax I have is a K-1000. While the 2 Nikons feel similar I now prefer to shoot them especially the FE.

Is it normal for the led meter to time out? Mine does and have to half press the shutter to waken even when first turned on.

It's normal for my FM2n at least.

[patrick9]

It's normal for my FM2n at least.

Thanks. I assume it is to save the battery then

[Kayaker-J]

Thanks. I assume it is to save the battery then

---------- Post added 08-11-14 at 06:11 PM ----------

Thanks. I assume it is to save the battery then

No need to give that a thought with your FE. I would call both my FT-3 and FT-2, plus my EL2 copies very smooth and quiet in the minimally distracting, nice shutter sound sense. I think my copies are better than average (there's more than a little variation among samples these days). My ME Super is neither as quiet, nor as shock free.

Nice lens pick ups. The 35mm/2.0 Nikkor would be a great complement and can be acquired, if you're lucky, at a very undervalued price. It has some tendency to flair... "they" say... but I never had an issue I worried about back in the film era. Sharp results. Perhaps the flair thing would come into play more at night. In any event, the later examples are said to be best in this respect. Your 24mm/2.8 has CRC for close-ups and likes to be stopped down to f.8-11 -- a nice landscape and nature lens. I have it for use on the K3 as well.

[patrick9]

I have it for use on the K3 as well.

I was wondering if there was an adapter to put it on my K-30

[Kayaker-J]

I was wondering if there was an adapter to put it on my K-30

Adapters aren't in the cards in this case. The flange-back distance the Nikkors are designed for is only 1.04 mm longer than the Pentax's (see Wikipedia for more on this topic). However, some Nikkors can be gently & carefully "force-fit" into place, about 2/3 of the way around "upside down", typically. I measure about a 5/16" 'catch' into the camera body's K-mount claws. The two bayonet systems are that compatible at least. I'd call this a less problematical solution optically speaking (i.e., regarding alignment) than the use of most cross-brand 3rd party adapters. Some tether or other security precaution is recommended. This is for "deliberate work" and suitable subjects.

---------- Post added 08-11-14 at 08:15 PM ----------

I was wondering if there was an adapter to put it on my K-30

For more: See my post on 7-28-14, 4:03 P.M., in the thread, "Non-conventional wide-angle options".

[Apologies for the duplications; they're coming courtesy of a weak, intermittent, rainy night mobile hook-up.]

[patrick9]

[Apologies for the duplications; they're coming courtesy of a weak, intermittent, rainy night mobile hook-up.]

No problem on the doubles.
I was considering an adapter or just buying a Nikon body . Like maybe a D200. I am on Nikon Forms as well as here and would like to be a bit more active with shots than film allows. That plus I like that 24mm lens and would like to use it more. I found some adapters but they are made in China and I am a bit afraid of the quality and problems that might arise from them. Afraid they may have issues like I have read here about the M42 adapters made there. So it may be back to looking for a Nikon body . I have had a D40x, A D70, and a D200 recommended. I am not leaving Pentax just thought a second system might be nice . I know the 40 and 70 have crippled mounts but they are cheaper and I have and use my DL which is a crippled mount so not sure it would make a lot of difference .

[patrick9]

Here are

Adapters aren't in the cards in this case. The flange-back distance the Nikkors are designed for is only 1.04 mm longer than the Pentax's (see Wikipedia for more on this topic). However, some Nikkors can be gently & carefully "force-fit" into place, about 2/3 of the way around "upside down", typically. I measure about a 5/16" 'catch' into the camera body's K-mount claws. The two bayonet systems are that compatible at least. I'd call this a less problematical solution optically speaking (i.e., regarding alignment) than the use of most cross-brand 3rd party adapters. Some tether or other security precaution is recommended. This is for "deliberate work" and suitable subjects.

Here are a couple taken Nikon 55/3.5 non AI mounted on my DL. hand held at night with room light 1600iso F5.6 no adapter. I was mainly interested in whether or not it worked after disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly.