Fuji X series club

Kuzma · 08-21-2018, 04:58 AM - **2 Likes**

Renault 12 "Toros". A very popular car in Turkey, especially in rural areas.

Sinister · 08-21-2018, 10:18 AM - **2 Likes**

DimC · 08-23-2018, 03:23 AM - **3 Likes**

knock, knock !

May I enter your club ?

The second visit to my local photo gear dealer has been the step too far

I just bought a XT-20 with the Kit lens, nice combo for sure!

I've been carrying the camera with me all day since I bought it 2 days ago, it's been a great lightweight kit, very easy to shoot with and very low profile compared to my Pentax cameras and lenses.
By going Fuji I also intended to cut down the PP time to a minimum, SOOC Jpeg's if possible, and that's were this system shines IMHO. The Jpegs are great as is, and I have not even tweaked anything yet.

The following images are Jpegs from camera, no PP at all.

now I've got a few questions as I am not really fully understanding Fuji's ergonomy. I should probably read the manual first though

I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine.
For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes.
If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed.

I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example.

I look forward to use this camera more this next WE, so far Im very impressed by Image quality and how light and discreet this camera is.

DimC · 08-23-2018, 04:20 AM

Originally posted by DimC

I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine.
For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes.
If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed.

Got it!

I must have press the Bck/display button while looking thru the EVF and that cycle thru different display modes available.

Kuzma · 08-23-2018, 07:28 AM

Originally posted by DimC

knock, knock !

May I enter your club ?

The second visit to my local photo gear dealer has been the step too far

I just bought a XT-20 with the Kit lens, nice combo for sure!

I've been carrying the camera with me all day since I bought it 2 days ago, it's been a great lightweight kit, very easy to shoot with and very low profile compared to my Pentax cameras and lenses.
By going Fuji I also intended to cut down the PP time to a minimum, SOOC Jpeg's if possible, and that's were this system shines IMHO. The Jpegs are great as is, and I have not even tweaked anything yet.

The following images are Jpegs from camera, no PP at all.

now I've got a few questions as I am not really fully understanding Fuji's ergonomy. I should probably read the manual first though

I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine.
For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes.
If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed.

I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example.

I look forward to use this camera more this next WE, so far Im very impressed by Image quality and how light and discreet this camera is.

Congratulations! "carrying the camera with me all day since I bought" - this is exactly what for it was designed. Now you will not loose a moment to make a great picture.

"I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example".

There are some limitations. Surely you can bind ISO to any of both dials (I binded ISO to the back dial), but I am not sure about aperture.

Pentikonian · 08-23-2018, 11:48 AM - **1 Like**

Scooby, again. With the X-H1 and Voigtlander 50/3.5 Heliar. The more I use this lens on the X-H1, the more I'm liking the combo.

**milaber22** · 08-24-2018, 02:28 AM

New small local festival with xe-3 and samyang 8mm f2.8 and the last with xt-2 and 16-55 f2.8

---------- Post added 08-24-18 at 12:30 PM ----------

Kuzma · 08-24-2018, 05:18 AM - **2 Likes**

Old kind soviet car under the snow.

Jonathan Mac · 08-24-2018, 06:23 AM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by DimC

knock, knock !

May I enter your club ?

The second visit to my local photo gear dealer has been the step too far

I just bought a XT-20 with the Kit lens, nice combo for sure!

I've been carrying the camera with me all day since I bought it 2 days ago, it's been a great lightweight kit, very easy to shoot with and very low profile compared to my Pentax cameras and lenses.
By going Fuji I also intended to cut down the PP time to a minimum, SOOC Jpeg's if possible, and that's were this system shines IMHO. The Jpegs are great as is, and I have not even tweaked anything yet.

The following images are Jpegs from camera, no PP at all.

now I've got a few questions as I am not really fully understanding Fuji's ergonomy. I should probably read the manual first though

I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine.
For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes.
If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed.

I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example.

I look forward to use this camera more this next WE, so far Im very impressed by Image quality and how light and discreet this camera is.

Congrats on the new camera though I can't help you out with setup, mine is a bit older and I'm not sure it has all those options. Now to start eyeing-up all those nice Fuji primes...

Here's one from me. X-M1 and 35/1.4. Very boring but work and lack of holidays are starving me of photo opportunities

Swing by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

DimC · 08-24-2018, 02:19 PM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

Congrats on the new camera though I can't help you out with setup, mine is a bit older and I'm not sure it has all those options. Now to start eyeing-up all those nice Fuji primes...

Here's one from me. X-M1 and 35/1.4. Very boring but work and lack of holidays are starving me of photo opportunities

Swing by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

Fuji Primes seems great, at least the couple I tried.

I've been really pleased by the kit zoom as is, a nice lens overall.
Today's commute after work.

surfar · 08-24-2018, 02:59 PM

A nice review

Youtu.be

**mgvh** · 08-25-2018, 10:18 PM

I received the Fotasy Pro Pentax DA K Mount lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter today. ($20 on Amazon)
Attaching the lens to the adapter and the adapter to my X-T100 body is very firm. No looseness, and if anything, a bit tight.
I checked out two lenses today: DA 10-17 FE and DA 16-85. The former is the one I was planning to use with some regularity. The latter was used as part of a comparison using the lenses on the Fuji and on my K-3.
The adapter adds about 3cm to the overall length of the lens. It's still rather compact compared to putting the lens on the K-3, but the adapter and DA 10-17 weigh about as much as X-T100 and the 15-45 kit lens!
I used the menu (Shooting Menu #4) to "shoot without lens" and set the MF Assist to Peak > Red (high). You can also input a specific focal length. There is no IBIS, but it is a handy way to set an odd number to identify a lens. (E.g., I set it to 49mm to designate that I was using the DA 16-85.)
As for shooting, I moved the adapter all the way to the Open position to manage focussing. The peak indicators work well, better on the LCD but also well enough in the EVF. The best way I found was to use the EVF and the magnification feature. With this, I was able to nail focus quite well.
The trick, however, (which will require more experimenting), is that you're just guessing when you try to stop down the lens using the adapter ring. It appears that it stops it down very quickly. I.e., just a tiny fraction of a turn probably moved the DA 16-85 from wide open to f8. (I'm guesstimating based on the shutter speeds and ISOs when comparing the same shot using the Fuji and the K-3.)

If anyone knows of a better way of managing the f-stop, I'd appreciate knowing.
As for the images...

The X-T100 did as good and usually better than the K-3 in almost all my tests. And that's with me shooting at wide open and otherwise unknown f-stops. In line w/ its reputation, the Fuji JPGs are excellent with more clarity and pop than the in-camera JPGs of the K-3. After some typical, light processing of the RAF and DNG files (setting levels, sharpening), the Fuji pics still just looked a little better. If I understand things correctly, the ~40MB RAF files are uncompressed RAW files and the ~30MB DNG files are compressed, but there seems to be lots more detail in the images.
I am not giving up on my K-3, however.

I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization.
There is a difference in noise in the images. I'm having trouble saying which one is less noticeable or easier to clean up, but my sense is that the K-3 will do better in low light and higher ISOs.
The K-3 and DA 16-85 is weather resistant, and that's important at times.
While I've figured out ways to get geotagging data on my K-3 images (using a GPX file), the geotagging on the Fuji using the Bluetooth on my phone is proving to be excellent.

In any case, putting my Pentax lenses on the X-T100 is going to work out very well, I think. I still want to see how things go with longer lenses and some of my older lenses w/ aperture rings so that I don't need to use the aperture control on the adapter. And as I mentioned above, if anyone knows a good way to gauge the aperture settings with the Fotasy adapter, I'd be grateful.

Jonathan Mac · 08-25-2018, 11:18 PM - **3 Likes**

Originally posted by mgvh

I received the Fotasy Pro Pentax DA K Mount lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter today. ($20 on Amazon)
Attaching the lens to the adapter and the adapter to my X-T100 body is very firm. No looseness, and if anything, a bit tight.
I checked out two lenses today: DA 10-17 FE and DA 16-85. The former is the one I was planning to use with some regularity. The latter was used as part of a comparison using the lenses on the Fuji and on my K-3.
The adapter adds about 3cm to the overall length of the lens. It's still rather compact compared to putting the lens on the K-3, but the adapter and DA 10-17 weigh about as much as X-T100 and the 15-45 kit lens!
I used the menu (Shooting Menu #4) to "shoot without lens" and set the MF Assist to Peak > Red (high). You can also input a specific focal length. There is no IBIS, but it is a handy way to set an odd number to identify a lens. (E.g., I set it to 49mm to designate that I was using the DA 16-85.)
As for shooting, I moved the adapter all the way to the Open position to manage focussing. The peak indicators work well, better on the LCD but also well enough in the EVF. The best way I found was to use the EVF and the magnification feature. With this, I was able to nail focus quite well.
The trick, however, (which will require more experimenting), is that you're just guessing when you try to stop down the lens using the adapter ring. It appears that it stops it down very quickly. I.e., just a tiny fraction of a turn probably moved the DA 16-85 from wide open to f8. (I'm guesstimating based on the shutter speeds and ISOs when comparing the same shot using the Fuji and the K-3.)

If anyone knows of a better way of managing the f-stop, I'd appreciate knowing.
As for the images...

The X-T100 did as good and usually better than the K-3 in almost all my tests. And that's with me shooting at wide open and otherwise unknown f-stops. In line w/ its reputation, the Fuji JPGs are excellent with more clarity and pop than the in-camera JPGs of the K-3. After some typical, light processing of the RAF and DNG files (setting levels, sharpening), the Fuji pics still just looked a little better. If I understand things correctly, the ~40MB RAF files are uncompressed RAW files and the ~30MB DNG files are compressed, but there seems to be lots more detail in the images.
I am not giving up on my K-3, however.

I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization.
There is a difference in noise in the images. I'm having trouble saying which one is less noticeable or easier to clean up, but my sense is that the K-3 will do better in low light and higher ISOs.
The K-3 and DA 16-85 is weather resistant, and that's important at times.
While I've figured out ways to get geotagging data on my K-3 images (using a GPX file), the geotagging on the Fuji using the Bluetooth on my phone is proving to be excellent.

In any case, putting my Pentax lenses on the X-T100 is going to work out very well, I think. I still want to see how things go with longer lenses and some of my older lenses w/ aperture rings so that I don't need to use the aperture control on the adapter. And as I mentioned above, if anyone knows a good way to gauge the aperture settings with the Fotasy adapter, I'd be grateful.

I'm glad to read that you've had success with the adapter and that you like the new camera.

I haven't found any real reason to know exactly what aperture it's stopped down to. I can shoot wide open when I want for shallow DoF or to maximise the amount of light getting in and three clicks on the adapter brings it to a middle-ish value of ~f/5.6 for maximised sharpness. The camera does a fine job of getting correct exposure as it's doing it based on the amount of light reaching the image sensor, not a dedicated metering sensor. If you really need to know the exact aperture value (though technically it would give you the light transmission value, you can do some tests and calculate it by photographing a static scene and seeing how the camera changes the ISO and/or shutter speed to yield the same exposure.

Fuji jpegs are superb, as are their white balance and exposure, and I post-process far less than with my Pentax cameras. If I switched to just Fuji I'd save myself a huge amount of time in front of the computer.

Here's an image from last night, taken with the X-M1 and 35/1.4. SOOC jpeg.

Segovia by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

DimC · 08-26-2018, 11:05 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

Fuji jpegs are superb, as are their white balance and exposure, and I post-process far less than with my Pentax cameras. If I switched to just Fuji I'd save myself a huge amount of time in front of the computer.

Here's an image from last night, taken with the X-M1 and 35/1.4. SOOC jpeg.

Segovia by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

It's insane how good jpeg SOOC are with Fuji

that was one of my main goal as well, reducing the PP time to the strict minimum. and it's been great as I shoot JPEG's and dont do any PP at all, besides crops sometimes.

I tried Jpeg from my K3 and K1 but it lags far behind and there is no film simulation which are a great addon to Fuji system.

all following shots @hyperfocal, No PP no crop. SOOC.

**mgvh** · 08-26-2018, 11:52 AM

@Jonathan Mac: My Fotasy adapter doesn't have clicks. (Maybe that's better for video?) I've since discovered that K&F does have clicks, but I can't find a K&F one on Amazon. I see they are on eBay for $37. (I paid $20 for the Fotasy.) I'll have to decide whether to keep the Fotasy or not, but I would prefer clicks.I see that Adorama has a Kipon one for $85, but it doesn't say if it is clicked or not. B&H has a Vello for $56 and a Novoflex for $211 (!), but it's not clear whether those are clicked or not.
Thanks for your comments.

---------- Post added 08-26-18 at 02:59 PM ----------

While I'm at it... Here are SOOC pics with X-T100. Only thing I did resize down.

This one is using the 15-45 kit lens and the red filter.

And here's one using the X-T100 with the Fotasy adapter and the Pentax DA 40XS. That combination is smaller (though a bit heavier) than the 15-45. It makes for a great walkaround, especially because the 40XS doesn't need to be closed down much to get sharp pics.

08-25-2018, 10:18 PM	#567
mgvh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: MD Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,030	I received the Fotasy Pro Pentax DA K Mount lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter today. ($20 on Amazon) Attaching the lens to the adapter and the adapter to my X-T100 body is very firm. No looseness, and if anything, a bit tight. I checked out two lenses today: DA 10-17 FE and DA 16-85. The former is the one I was planning to use with some regularity. The latter was used as part of a comparison using the lenses on the Fuji and on my K-3. The adapter adds about 3cm to the overall length of the lens. It's still rather compact compared to putting the lens on the K-3, but the adapter and DA 10-17 weigh about as much as X-T100 and the 15-45 kit lens! I used the menu (Shooting Menu #4) to "shoot without lens" and set the MF Assist to Peak > Red (high). You can also input a specific focal length. There is no IBIS, but it is a handy way to set an odd number to identify a lens. (E.g., I set it to 49mm to designate that I was using the DA 16-85.) As for shooting, I moved the adapter all the way to the Open position to manage focussing. The peak indicators work well, better on the LCD but also well enough in the EVF. The best way I found was to use the EVF and the magnification feature. With this, I was able to nail focus quite well. The trick, however, (which will require more experimenting), is that you're just guessing when you try to stop down the lens using the adapter ring. It appears that it stops it down very quickly. I.e., just a tiny fraction of a turn probably moved the DA 16-85 from wide open to f8. (I'm guesstimating based on the shutter speeds and ISOs when comparing the same shot using the Fuji and the K-3.) If anyone knows of a better way of managing the f-stop, I'd appreciate knowing. As for the images... The X-T100 did as good and usually better than the K-3 in almost all my tests. And that's with me shooting at wide open and otherwise unknown f-stops. In line w/ its reputation, the Fuji JPGs are excellent with more clarity and pop than the in-camera JPGs of the K-3. After some typical, light processing of the RAF and DNG files (setting levels, sharpening), the Fuji pics still just looked a little better. If I understand things correctly, the ~40MB RAF files are uncompressed RAW files and the ~30MB DNG files are compressed, but there seems to be lots more detail in the images. I am not giving up on my K-3, however. I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization. There is a difference in noise in the images. I'm having trouble saying which one is less noticeable or easier to clean up, but my sense is that the K-3 will do better in low light and higher ISOs. The K-3 and DA 16-85 is weather resistant, and that's important at times. While I've figured out ways to get geotagging data on my K-3 images (using a GPX file), the geotagging on the Fuji using the Bluetooth on my phone is proving to be excellent. In any case, putting my Pentax lenses on the X-T100 is going to work out very well, I think. I still want to see how things go with longer lenses and some of my older lenses w/ aperture rings so that I don't need to use the aperture control on the adapter. And as I mentioned above, if anyone knows a good way to gauge the aperture settings with the Fotasy adapter, I'd be grateful.

08-25-2018, 11:18 PM - 3 Likes	#568
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897 Original Poster	Originally posted by mgvh I received the Fotasy Pro Pentax DA K Mount lens to Fujifilm FX Mount Camera Adapter today. ($20 on Amazon) Attaching the lens to the adapter and the adapter to my X-T100 body is very firm. No looseness, and if anything, a bit tight. I checked out two lenses today: DA 10-17 FE and DA 16-85. The former is the one I was planning to use with some regularity. The latter was used as part of a comparison using the lenses on the Fuji and on my K-3. The adapter adds about 3cm to the overall length of the lens. It's still rather compact compared to putting the lens on the K-3, but the adapter and DA 10-17 weigh about as much as X-T100 and the 15-45 kit lens! I used the menu (Shooting Menu #4) to "shoot without lens" and set the MF Assist to Peak > Red (high). You can also input a specific focal length. There is no IBIS, but it is a handy way to set an odd number to identify a lens. (E.g., I set it to 49mm to designate that I was using the DA 16-85.) As for shooting, I moved the adapter all the way to the Open position to manage focussing. The peak indicators work well, better on the LCD but also well enough in the EVF. The best way I found was to use the EVF and the magnification feature. With this, I was able to nail focus quite well. The trick, however, (which will require more experimenting), is that you're just guessing when you try to stop down the lens using the adapter ring. It appears that it stops it down very quickly. I.e., just a tiny fraction of a turn probably moved the DA 16-85 from wide open to f8. (I'm guesstimating based on the shutter speeds and ISOs when comparing the same shot using the Fuji and the K-3.) If anyone knows of a better way of managing the f-stop, I'd appreciate knowing. As for the images... The X-T100 did as good and usually better than the K-3 in almost all my tests. And that's with me shooting at wide open and otherwise unknown f-stops. In line w/ its reputation, the Fuji JPGs are excellent with more clarity and pop than the in-camera JPGs of the K-3. After some typical, light processing of the RAF and DNG files (setting levels, sharpening), the Fuji pics still just looked a little better. If I understand things correctly, the ~40MB RAF files are uncompressed RAW files and the ~30MB DNG files are compressed, but there seems to be lots more detail in the images. I am not giving up on my K-3, however. I was able to shoot at 85mm in decent light without motion blur on the Fuji. I don't know how much of a longer telephoto I can shoot handheld without image stabilization. There is a difference in noise in the images. I'm having trouble saying which one is less noticeable or easier to clean up, but my sense is that the K-3 will do better in low light and higher ISOs. The K-3 and DA 16-85 is weather resistant, and that's important at times. While I've figured out ways to get geotagging data on my K-3 images (using a GPX file), the geotagging on the Fuji using the Bluetooth on my phone is proving to be excellent. In any case, putting my Pentax lenses on the X-T100 is going to work out very well, I think. I still want to see how things go with longer lenses and some of my older lenses w/ aperture rings so that I don't need to use the aperture control on the adapter. And as I mentioned above, if anyone knows a good way to gauge the aperture settings with the Fotasy adapter, I'd be grateful. I'm glad to read that you've had success with the adapter and that you like the new camera. I haven't found any real reason to know exactly what aperture it's stopped down to. I can shoot wide open when I want for shallow DoF or to maximise the amount of light getting in and three clicks on the adapter brings it to a middle-ish value of ~f/5.6 for maximised sharpness. The camera does a fine job of getting correct exposure as it's doing it based on the amount of light reaching the image sensor, not a dedicated metering sensor. If you really need to know the exact aperture value (though technically it would give you the light transmission value, you can do some tests and calculate it by photographing a static scene and seeing how the camera changes the ISO and/or shutter speed to yield the same exposure. Fuji jpegs are superb, as are their white balance and exposure, and I post-process far less than with my Pentax cameras. If I switched to just Fuji I'd save myself a huge amount of time in front of the computer. Here's an image from last night, taken with the X-M1 and 35/1.4. SOOC jpeg. Segovia by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

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08-21-2018, 04:58 AM - 2 Likes	#556
Kuzma Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Moscow Posts: 514	Renault 12 "Toros". A very popular car in Turkey, especially in rural areas.

08-21-2018, 10:18 AM - 2 Likes	#557
Sinister Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Berlin Posts: 1,045

08-23-2018, 04:20 AM	#559
DimC Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Paris Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 813	Originally posted by DimC I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine. For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes. If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed. Got it! I must have press the Bck/display button while looking thru the EVF and that cycle thru different display modes available.

08-23-2018, 07:28 AM	#560
Kuzma Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Moscow Posts: 514	Originally posted by DimC knock, knock ! May I enter your club ? The second visit to my local photo gear dealer has been the step too far I just bought a XT-20 with the Kit lens, nice combo for sure! I've been carrying the camera with me all day since I bought it 2 days ago, it's been a great lightweight kit, very easy to shoot with and very low profile compared to my Pentax cameras and lenses. By going Fuji I also intended to cut down the PP time to a minimum, SOOC Jpeg's if possible, and that's were this system shines IMHO. The Jpegs are great as is, and I have not even tweaked anything yet. The following images are Jpegs from camera, no PP at all. now I've got a few questions as I am not really fully understanding Fuji's ergonomy. I should probably read the manual first though I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine. For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes. If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed. I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example. I look forward to use this camera more this next WE, so far Im very impressed by Image quality and how light and discreet this camera is. Congratulations! "carrying the camera with me all day since I bought" - this is exactly what for it was designed. Now you will not loose a moment to make a great picture. "I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example". There are some limitations. Surely you can bind ISO to any of both dials (I binded ISO to the back dial), but I am not sure about aperture.

08-23-2018, 11:48 AM - 1 Like	#561
Pentikonian Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Arizona Posts: 780	Scooby, again. With the X-H1 and Voigtlander 50/3.5 Heliar. The more I use this lens on the X-H1, the more I'm liking the combo.

08-24-2018, 02:28 AM	#562
milaber22 Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 338	New small local festival with xe-3 and samyang 8mm f2.8 and the last with xt-2 and 16-55 f2.8 ---------- Post added 08-24-18 at 12:30 PM ----------

08-24-2018, 05:18 AM - 2 Likes	#563
Kuzma Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Moscow Posts: 514	Old kind soviet car under the snow.

08-24-2018, 06:23 AM - 2 Likes	#564
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897 Original Poster	Originally posted by DimC knock, knock ! May I enter your club ? The second visit to my local photo gear dealer has been the step too far I just bought a XT-20 with the Kit lens, nice combo for sure! I've been carrying the camera with me all day since I bought it 2 days ago, it's been a great lightweight kit, very easy to shoot with and very low profile compared to my Pentax cameras and lenses. By going Fuji I also intended to cut down the PP time to a minimum, SOOC Jpeg's if possible, and that's were this system shines IMHO. The Jpegs are great as is, and I have not even tweaked anything yet. The following images are Jpegs from camera, no PP at all. now I've got a few questions as I am not really fully understanding Fuji's ergonomy. I should probably read the manual first though I've setup the camera to use the AF-L as back button, disable the AF on the shutter so all is fine. For some reasons when I look thru the viewfinder, all info disappear after 1 sec, I need to press the AF button again to display the AF point and all other infos. Happens in AF-S and AF-C modes. If I press the BB AND the Shutter release then all is fine, info stays displayed. I've been trying to assign the Front dial something but with no ends. I want to use ISO or Aperture for example. I look forward to use this camera more this next WE, so far Im very impressed by Image quality and how light and discreet this camera is. Congrats on the new camera though I can't help you out with setup, mine is a bit older and I'm not sure it has all those options. Now to start eyeing-up all those nice Fuji primes... Here's one from me. X-M1 and 35/1.4. Very boring but work and lack of holidays are starving me of photo opportunities Swing by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

08-26-2018, 11:52 AM	#570
mgvh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: MD Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,030	@Jonathan Mac: My Fotasy adapter doesn't have clicks. (Maybe that's better for video?) I've since discovered that K&F does have clicks, but I can't find a K&F one on Amazon. I see they are on eBay for $37. (I paid $20 for the Fotasy.) I'll have to decide whether to keep the Fotasy or not, but I would prefer clicks.I see that Adorama has a Kipon one for $85, but it doesn't say if it is clicked or not. B&H has a Vello for $56 and a Novoflex for $211 (!), but it's not clear whether those are clicked or not. Thanks for your comments. ---------- Post added 08-26-18 at 02:59 PM ---------- While I'm at it... Here are SOOC pics with X-T100. Only thing I did resize down. This one is using the 15-45 kit lens and the red filter. And here's one using the X-T100 with the Fotasy adapter and the Pentax DA 40XS. That combination is smaller (though a bit heavier) than the 15-45. It makes for a great walkaround, especially because the 40XS doesn't need to be closed down much to get sharp pics.