[glinda]

It’s an inland sea of corn ... as out in Big Sky country ....( hope to see Big Sky country someday , for myself . ) ...

cornfield

---------- Post added 09-08-20 at 07:22 AM ----------

Last I’ll say : ) maybe ...
Xe1, xt1, xpro1, is what I have.
Shoot mostly 50/58 mm ... it’s what I come back to no matter what other lenses I put on...
If I miss a shot , or it’s not good , it’s never because of camera shake .
I never shoot autofocus, with these. Never have.

I don’t know about what others say ... depends I guess on what focal length you like to use ... any camera needs some kind of physical or lens or body stabilization after a certain point .

But I never need it with these . Never even think about it , as I said , even up to the 150.

Only reason I’d want another Fuji would be for a bigger better viewfinder .... Xt1 viewfinder , the whole camera ... is a pleasure.
I get frustrated with the other two camera viewfinders ... but put up with them, just cause they give me good results

It will be interesting to see what pentax has on that newest for a viewfinder . But too . I like the k10d viewfinder .
Ok , will be quiet now ...

agreed - the X-H1 does appear to be the better camera..... but will be well over my budget....

I'm probably not in the market until December (unless something bizarre happens and all the lenses I have for sale..... well, sell) so I'm keeping my eyes open to the market as we move along...

[Kuzma]

[Martin Stu]

It’s an inland sea of corn ... as out in Big Sky country ....( hope to see Big Sky country someday , for myself . ) ...

probably in general, like in the of Big Sky country... well, or almost like...
oat field

the color has disappeared somewhere

[surfar]

my budget....

Well, you could always start at the bottom,XE-1 for 100-200 U$.16mp but still very good images.

XE-3 is 24mp and has Acros and ClassicCrome simulations,probably pick up a used one for U$400ish.

What I consider a great value camera are the 24mp Bayer array Fujis,XT-200/XA-7.699 or 499 depending if you need a EVF.The screens work in the brightest sunlight,lots of
features and at those prices come with a excellent kit lens that starts at 15mm(very sharp to 30mm) and goes to 45mm.

The difference in price of a used T2 and H1 wont be that much either and to have the extra features is worth it.

[Neuse River Sailor]

I have a question for the Fuji users here:

IBIS vs non-IBIS in a Fuji X body camera: is it necessary/worth it/to die for?

Re: hand-holding X-T20. My experience is that these cameras are very easy to hand-hold and I have gotten plenty of good shots at a tenth or even a fifth of a second. The small size of the body, in combination with my Takumar 55, lets me wrap my hands around the whole assembly, and the shutter release is very smooth. If you've been around since the days of film, which I know you have, Pepperberry Farm, you know how to hold a camera and how to press the release, and I don't think you would have any trouble with an X-T20. With young photographers today, once I teach them to hold the camera in the palms of their hands, not with their fingertips, and how to gently press the shutter release, not stab at it, suddenly their pictures get a lot clearer.

Here's a shot taken at an eighth of a second.

[Coiseam]

I have a question for the Fuji users here:

IBIS vs non-IBIS in a Fuji X body camera: is it necessary/worth it/to die for?

I am considering adding a used X body to my collection, primarily to shoot lenses other than Fuji X-mount lenses (Nikkor, Olympus, Yashica, etc) and nothing longer than 85mm in focal length....

I know the IBIS is especially important in hand-holding a body with focal lengths over 100mm and beyond.....

I have an X-T20, use it in Auto ISO mode with minimum shutter speed of 1/200, no problems with blurred images. With Pentax I use Apperture priority mode with ISO set before and control shutter speed. It's kinda if you frequently shoot static subjects in dark environment (or night city), lack of IBIS can be a problem, if no than not.

Also with X-T20 some MF lenses I have are just too heavy to shoot with comfort (Zeiss 50 1.4 is still all right, Zeisses 28 2 and 85 1.4 are not). Focus peaking on Fuji I like much more than on Pentax, though.

But... Didn't you consider getting a full frame mirrorless for MF lenses you have? Sony A7 1st gen or something like that?

Well, you could always start at the bottom,XE-1 for 100-200 U$.16mp but still very good images.

XE-3 is 24mp and has Acros and ClassicCrome simulations,probably pick up a used one for U$400ish.

What I consider a great value camera are the 24mp Bayer array Fujis,XT-200/XA-7.699 or 499 depending if you need a EVF.The screens work in the brightest sunlight,lots of
features and at those prices come with a excellent kit lens that starts at 15mm(very sharp to 30mm) and goes to 45mm.

The difference in price of a used T2 and H1 wont be that much either and to have the extra features is worth it.

I have a friend with X-E1, tried it and liked it more than my X-T20. Ergonomics is nicer, good colours are easier to get. But also autofocus is considerably slower than on X-T20 and I didn't try focus peaking there, don't know whether there's one. I thought myself about getting a Fuji with Bayer matrix (couldn't deal with X-T20 colours in certain situations) before accidentally finding a magic camera profile in Capture One that has solved my problems with that

[Coiseam]

Zeiss Touit 12, f8, Fuji X-T20

[Jean Poitiers]

I have a question for the Fuji users here:

IBIS vs non-IBIS in a Fuji X body camera: is it necessary/worth it/to die for?

I am considering adding a used X body to my collection, primarily to shoot lenses other than Fuji X-mount lenses (Nikkor, Olympus, Yashica, etc) and nothing longer than 85mm in focal length....

I know the IBIS is especially important in hand-holding a body with focal lengths over 100mm and beyond.....

Bonjour PBF,

I kind of asked myself that same question before recently buying my X-T3.

IMHO the ISO is very good on the X-T3 that there's not really need for IBIS. Just bump up the ISO and keep a decent shutter speed for the hand held. I have two Fuji friends, one with the X-T2 that I tired out a bit, and another that went for X-T2 to X-T3 ... he sees no difference between the two different sensors.

To be honest, budget was a factor for me and I really did not want to put more into a X-T4 ... plus I could not use all my batteries from the X-E1 & X-E2, plus third parties in a X-T4. I have adapters for Nikon, Olympus, M42, Pentax K & Konica ... plus a Leica-M and LTM in M39. Also have an adapter for Penatx Auto 110 which is a lot on fun.

Cheers, J

[pepperberry farm]

Bonjour PBF,

I kind of asked myself that same question before recently buying my X-T3.

IMHO the ISO is very good on the X-T3 that there's not really need for IBIS. Just bump up the ISO and keep a decent shutter speed for the hand held. I have two Fuji friends, one with the X-T2 that I tired out a bit, and another that went for X-T2 to X-T3 ... he sees no difference between the two different sensors.

To be honest, budget was a factor for me and I really did not want to put more into a X-T4 ... plus I could not use all my batteries from the X-E1 & X-E2, plus third parties in a X-T4. I have adapters for Nikon, Olympus, M42, Pentax K & Konica ... plus a Leica-M and LTM in M39. Also have an adapter for Pentax Auto 110 which is a lot on fun.

Cheers, J

thank you, Jean

I am leaning towards the X-T2, once these lenses sell, with adapters for my MF lenses.....

[Jean Poitiers]

Well, you could always start at the bottom,XE-1 for 100-200 U$.16mp but still very good images.

XE-3 is 24mp and has Acros and ClassicCrome simulations,probably pick up a used one for U$400ish.

What I consider a great value camera are the 24mp Bayer array Fujis,XT-200/XA-7.699 or 499 depending if you need a EVF.The screens work in the brightest sunlight,lots of
features and at those prices come with a excellent kit lens that starts at 15mm(very sharp to 30mm) and goes to 45mm.

The difference in price of a used T2 and H1 wont be that much either and to have the extra features is worth it.

A sleeper IMHO is the X-E2 ... Just install the most recent firmware and it becomes an entirely "new" camera.

The firmware update was so major that they had to re-issue the owners manual.

I was amazed after I installed it and it made me sway away from getting the next generation ... the X-E3.

[Jonathan Mac]

I have a question for the Fuji users here:

IBIS vs non-IBIS in a Fuji X body camera: is it necessary/worth it/to die for?

I am considering adding a used X body to my collection, primarily to shoot lenses other than Fuji X-mount lenses (Nikkor, Olympus, Yashica, etc) and nothing longer than 85mm in focal length....

I know the IBIS is especially important in hand-holding a body with focal lengths over 100mm and beyond.....

In my opinion the lack of IBIS is a minor issue with Fuji, for various reasons:

1. I've not tried other brands but they make claims of up to six stops. I'm not sure what Pentax claim but I've never been able to get more than what I estimate to be around two stops out of their IBIS, so I suspect it's inferior to that found in other brands.

2. Fuji cameras are very adaptable and it's easy to limit the minimum shutter speed that will be used so it's rare to find that suddenly a shot was ruined because the light level fell and left you with a shutter speed too low for the focal length.

3. Not applicable if you're only shooting legacy glass, but Fuji's lenses are so good at wider apertures there is less need to stop down, so you get more light in and that keeps the shutter speed up.

I rarely shoot above 55mm with my Fuji but when I do the longer and heavier legacy lenses are less comfortable than they would be on a heavier SLR, it's ttrue. Last weekend I was at a concert at night and mostly used the K 135mm f/2.5. I chose that lens for it's length and because I know it's very sharp wide open, which is where I had it the whole time. I had to limit my shutter speed to above 1/125s or 1/160s to avoid camera shake so I was shooting at high ISOs but still got images I'm pretty happy with, though IBIS would have allowed me to at least halve the shutter speed and therefore ISO.

Here's an example of the above setup - K 135mm wide open, ISO 4000 (and probably boosted a bit in post) 1/250s:


Amaral by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

Setting the camera up for this kind of shooting (if you're not just using manual mode) is a bit different on Fuji when compared to Pentax but once you get the hang of it, it's more customisable.

[surfar]

A sleeper IMHO is the X-E2

The EVF is only at XE-1 level, the real sleeper is the S model that came later.It has the EVF similar to XE-3.

firmware update

Kaizan! As Fuji call it,but as soon as each generation sensor is past by it stops and is only issued for new lens compatibility.

it made me sway away from getting the next generation ... the X-E3.

XE-3 is quite cheap now,around half issue price which makes it a bargain(imo).Very capable with 24mp and Acros(plus filters) and classicChrome giving a great choice of film sims.Capable of 4K moving pictures as well.

---------- Post added 09-10-20 at 04:38 AM ----------

I didn't try focus peaking there, don't know whether there's one.

Peaking on the first generation Fuji bodies(Pro1,E1,M1) is available but only white and its much better in the next generations of Fujis.

[Coiseam]

XF 50 2, f5.6, Fuji X-T20

[Jean Poitiers]

I sold a bunch of film gear that was not seeing enough use, so I got the XF 16/2.8 R WR in silver for the X-T3. Some first efforts ... post via Darktable 3.2

[Coiseam]

I sold a bunch of film gear that was not seeing enough use, so I got the XF 18/2.8 R WR in silver for the X-T3. Some first efforts ... post via Darktable 3.2

Interesting how this lens compares to Pentax 15 lim... My Pentax 15 lim is soft in corners even not wide open, but delivers natural colours and overall look. Zeiss Touit 12 for Fuji has much better sharpness, but delivers more flat picture.