[Sam_I_am]

X-t1, nikkor 28/ 3.5 non ais.
I'm starting to really like this lens , which never did much for me on film, so was in the cupboard for years. ...

That is beautiful...

[glinda]

https://www.metrolyrics.com/green-eggs-and-ham-lyrics-dr-seuss.html

That is beautiful...

Thank you thank you , Sam-i-am .

---------- Post added 11-26-20 at 03:39 PM ----------

Dear friends, everyone who celebrates Thanksgiving, I want to congratulate you on this wonderful holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving! All the year round may material prosperity stay with you, and your home always be full of happiness, beauty and friends. And let the covid not be an obstacle to gather at the festive table.

All because of the Cheyenne ,,, well , i think it was actually the Shamut tribe .. or maybe another... who helped .... at first....

[LeRolls]

[pepperberry farm]

[Sam_I_am]

Baywatch rerun?

---------- Post added 11-27-20 at 01:47 AM ----------

Very soothing sunset, just what was needed on my grey day. Thanks!

[Jonathan Mac]

Taken with the Fuji XC 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS II kit lens on my X-T20. 26.9mm. 1600 iso, f/22, 3.5 second exposure. I usually keep both raw and jpg, and frequently use the jpg, but in this case the image was just too challenging for the in-camera processor and I did a lot of post-processing from raw. The kit lens is made of plastic, but while the material is cheap, the build quality is just as high as any Fuji lens, and so is the glass. I don't use the lens very often, preferring my Takumars, but I am always impressed with the sharpness of the images. It's a great light and small walking around lens that also works for set pieces like this one.

Not to criticise as this is a genuine question, but I'm bemused as to why these settings would be used. f/22 will not be the sharpest setting and doesn't seem needed for increased DoF, and leads to the higher ISO and long exposure, but even if you want to use f/22, while you've got the camera steady (presumably on a tripod), why not lower the ISO and use a longer exposure?

On a completely separate note, I've been intending to get the Tokina 56mm f/1.4 when it eventually comes out, thinking that it may have better coatings and a clicked aperture ring compared to the Viltrox version of the same lens. Now that Tokina have confirmed release of their 23 and 33mm lenses for December it seems that they really are just re-badged copies of the Viltrox with a 25% price hike. So, I'm eyeing up the Viltrox and every single review I read or watch online says the same thing: great build quality, great AF, great optics. Maybe I'm more confident in a known name like Tokina but I think I'll just pick up the Viltrox soon and save the extra cash for something else rather than use it to pay for the Tokina badge. I don't remember seeing any Viltrox photos in this thread and was wondering if anyone here has tried any of them?

[Neuse River Sailor]

Not to criticise as this is a genuine question, but I'm bemused as to why these settings would be used. f/22 will not be the sharpest setting and doesn't seem needed for increased DoF, and leads to the higher ISO and long exposure, but even if you want to use f/22, while you've got the camera steady (presumably on a tripod), why not lower the ISO and use a longer exposure?

I did several exposures with varying settings and this one was the best. The f/22 aperture gave me focus all the way from the windowsill three feet away to infinity, which is what I was looking for in this picture. I wanted the windowsill to be in decent focus because the picture was taken explicitly for one of my websites that explores what people in different places see when they look out the window of their home, and the framing is important. I didn't want to go with a very long exposure for fear of ghostly people moving around in the picture, and my experience is that with the Fuji body I can bump up the ISO without too many issues. I completely agree that most of the time it's best to go with the tried and true low ISO, mid-range aperture formula but if I have the opportunity like this to try multiple exposures it's worth while to break with convention and see what happens.

[pepperberry farm]

Remy

[Sam_I_am]

Remy

Look at those eyes....full of soul.

[Jonathan Mac]

Another from the same concert in the summer, this time looking back at the spectators (can't really call them a crowd when everyone's three meters apart...)

X-T20 and 35/1.4 wide open


At the Amaral concert by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

[glinda]

Another from the same concert in the summer, this time looking back at the spectators (can't really call them a crowd when everyone's three meters apart...)

X-T20 and 35/1.4 wide open


At the Amaral concert by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

cool shot , wide open.

---------- Post added 11-28-20 at 07:45 AM ----------



no one ever posts pics of their camera stuff, do they .... anyway, just working on getting blacks . the red filter monochrome seems to help.
x-t1, nikkor 28/ 3.5 non ais

---------- Post added 11-28-20 at 07:50 AM ----------

Remy

straight jpeg ? Pepperberry ? really nice. i have not had good luck with the bokeh on that lens , so weird and busy, but i don't see that in your shot.

[pepperberry farm]

no one ever posts pics of their camera stuff, do they .... anyway, just working on getting blacks . the red filter monochrome seems to help.
x-t1, nikkor 28/ 3.5 non ais

nice shot - I post most of my lens shots here:

Lens Fetish Club - PentaxForums.com

straight jpeg ? Pepperberry ? really nice. i have not had good luck with the bokeh on that lens , so weird and busy, but i don't see that in your shot.

thank you - mostly a straight jpg: slight crop and horizontal adjustment...

[pepperberry farm]

I found a monochrome film sim that I can live with:






I found the recipe here:

Fuji – OneCameraOneLens by Mark G Adams

[pepperberry farm]

[Sam_I_am]

Did you try it? 😃