Do you really need 1/8000th sec?

neostyles · 04-15-2016, 03:23 PM

So, I'm having a hell of a time trying to choose between the NX1 and the a6300. Focus seems awesome on both. NX1 has that awesome touch screen that samsung is known for in their phones, while the a6300 is well, the a6300, one of the most popular mirrorless systems out there. The only thing is that the a6300 has a max shutter speed of only 1/4000th of a sec, so the question I'm facing is do you really need anything higher than that? I know the 8000th is a staple of "pro" bodies, but is there anything that can't be frozen with 1/4000th? Do you ever find yourself needing more when shooting wide open? The a6300 also syncs up to 160th sec sec but I gather there are ways around?

pathdoc · 04-15-2016, 04:03 PM

It works very nicely for freezing the movement of birds taking off, and for enabling the use of wide open apertures for shallow DOF in very bright light.

**Riggomatic** · 04-15-2016, 04:14 PM

Popping a balloon filled with water?

I'm definitely not a pro, but if I'm trying for a shallow DOF on a bright sunny day, on a beach, or in the snow, I think you would need the 1/8000. Especially if you don't have an ND filter.

**robgski** · 04-15-2016, 04:26 PM

If you have never felt a need for it before, you probably don't need it now. Also, ISO is a factor on bright days, it's rare that I go to 1/8000 on my K-5

I think birds or other fast moving objects would be "frozen" well below 1/8000. Example:This Hummingbird was taken at 1/2000, not completely frozen, but 1/4000 is even faster.

hcc · 04-15-2016, 04:37 PM

Yes definitely. In fact, I would love a faster shutter speed (eg 1/20,000 s). When you shoot action, a high shutter speed is a basic requirement to freeze the action and have crisp, sharp photographs.

**mike.hiran** · 04-15-2016, 04:42 PM

I think the main reason I'd want 1/8000 is for shooting wide open with a fast lens in daylight. That extra stop can make all the difference...

Danas_Anis · 04-15-2016, 04:44 PM

aren't you worried NX system might be dead? I am in pretty similar situation and am thinking nx1 or a6300. Shutter up to 1/4000 bugs me for some reason, even though I don't shoot at such high speeds, and the overheating issues reported worries me regarding a6300. Before the bizarre situation with Samsung NX cameras NX1 was my number one choice. I would prefer NX1 for its size and ergonomics. Pitty it never reached my country...

**JensE** · 04-15-2016, 04:51 PM

Originally posted by hcc

When you shoot action, a high shutter speed is a basic requirement to freeze the action and have crisp, sharp photographs.

Fast shutter speeds would be nice, but in reality they already only help to freeze objects which are small compared to the full picture. Anything significantly faster than the X-sync time is just created by the rear shutter curtain following the front curtain before the shutter is fully open, and thus leads to motion distortion of fast moving objects.

Adam · 04-15-2016, 05:53 PM

Originally posted by vagrant10

I think the main reason I'd want 1/8000 is for shooting wide open with a fast lens in daylight. That extra stop can make all the difference...

This. So unless you have a fast lens and often shoot in strong sunlight, 1/4000s should suffice.

Franky2step · 04-15-2016, 06:48 PM - **1 Like**

Yes you do. In fact, I use 1/16000th on my Fuji for 56mm f1.2 images in sunlight

**robgski** · 04-15-2016, 06:54 PM

IMO, need is subjective, how much wide open full daylight photography do you do? How much "freeze motion" photography do you do?

Just for grins, I tried this, K-5, 135mm takumar f3.5 ISO 3200, 1/8000 sec:
[IMG]

[/IMG]

biz-engineer · 04-23-2016, 11:15 PM - **1 Like**

@ robgski: for freezing motion, flash light is way better option. Flash duration when not at full power (1/4th of power) can be up to 1/10000th of a second, + the advantage of using base ISO and stop down the lens to f8, f10, f11, makes shutter speed irrelevant. Most common off camera flash guide number of around 50 meter, you can photograph at 2 meter f8 (best sharpness of the lenses) and ISO100 (lowest noise of the sensor = clean image) and on top of this, the spike like exposure of the flash is immune to shutter vibration. Below two examples with flash and with 1/8000 shutter speed. The image shot at 1/8000 is noisy even when down-sampled to 600x800. See EXIF info for camera settings.

Jonathan Mac · 04-24-2016, 01:27 AM

I use 1/8000s very rarely indeed. It's only one stop. On the other hand, as great as the Samsung may be, the seem to be sadly abandoning the interchangeable lens camera market so I wouldn't invest in their gear. Go with Sony NEX or Fuji X instead. The Fuji X-Pro 2 goes to 1/8000s, I'm not sure if any of the other models do.

**robgski** · 04-24-2016, 06:45 AM

Originally posted by biz-engineer

Below two examples with flash and with 1/8000 shutter speed.

Thanks for the shots and explanation. My hastily shot example was more about why one might need 1/8000 sec, and what it would look like, rather than demonstrate how best to freeze a water splash. As you stated, a flash would be the best way to do that.

Franky2step · 04-24-2016, 07:09 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

I use 1/8000s very rarely indeed. It's only one stop. On the other hand, as great as the Samsung may be, the seem to be sadly abandoning the interchangeable lens camera market so I wouldn't invest in their gear. Go with Sony NEX or Fuji X instead. The Fuji X-Pro 2 goes to 1/8000s, I'm not sure if any of the other models do.

the Fuji X-PRO2 and X-T1 actually go to 1/32000th of a second with it's electronic shutter(1/8000th mechanical for X-PRO2, 1/4000th X-T1)

04-15-2016, 03:23 PM	#1
neostyles Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 445	Do you really need 1/8000th sec? So, I'm having a hell of a time trying to choose between the NX1 and the a6300. Focus seems awesome on both. NX1 has that awesome touch screen that samsung is known for in their phones, while the a6300 is well, the a6300, one of the most popular mirrorless systems out there. The only thing is that the a6300 has a max shutter speed of only 1/4000th of a sec, so the question I'm facing is do you really need anything higher than that? I know the 8000th is a staple of "pro" bodies, but is there anything that can't be frozen with 1/4000th? Do you ever find yourself needing more when shooting wide open? The a6300 also syncs up to 160th sec sec but I gather there are ways around?

04-15-2016, 05:53 PM	#9
Adam Administrator Site Webmaster Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Arizona Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 51,594	Originally posted by vagrant10 I think the main reason I'd want 1/8000 is for shooting wide open with a fast lens in daylight. That extra stop can make all the difference... This. So unless you have a fast lens and often shoot in strong sunlight, 1/4000s should suffice. Adam PentaxForums.com Webmaster (Site Usage Guide \| Site Help \| My Photography) PentaxForums.com server and development costs are user-supported. You can help cover these costs by donating or purchasing one of our Pentax eBooks. Or, buy your photo gear from our affiliates, Adorama, B&H Photo, KEH, or Topaz Labs, and get FREE Marketplace access - click here to see how! Trusted Pentax retailers:

04-15-2016, 06:54 PM	#11
robgski Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 8,796	IMO, need is subjective, how much wide open full daylight photography do you do? How much "freeze motion" photography do you do? Just for grins, I tried this, K-5, 135mm takumar f3.5 ISO 3200, 1/8000 sec: [IMG][/IMG]

04-24-2016, 06:45 AM	#14
robgski Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 8,796	Originally posted by biz-engineer Below two examples with flash and with 1/8000 shutter speed. Thanks for the shots and explanation. My hastily shot example was more about why one might need 1/8000 sec, and what it would look like, rather than demonstrate how best to freeze a water splash. As you stated, a flash would be the best way to do that. Last edited by robgski; 04-24-2016 at 08:59 AM.

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04-15-2016, 04:03 PM	#2
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	It works very nicely for freezing the movement of birds taking off, and for enabling the use of wide open apertures for shallow DOF in very bright light.

04-15-2016, 04:14 PM	#3
Riggomatic Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Auburn, Indiana Photos: Albums Posts: 3,885	Popping a balloon filled with water? I'm definitely not a pro, but if I'm trying for a shallow DOF on a bright sunny day, on a beach, or in the snow, I think you would need the 1/8000. Especially if you don't have an ND filter.

04-15-2016, 04:26 PM	#4
robgski Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 8,796	If you have never felt a need for it before, you probably don't need it now. Also, ISO is a factor on bright days, it's rare that I go to 1/8000 on my K-5 I think birds or other fast moving objects would be "frozen" well below 1/8000. Example:This Hummingbird was taken at 1/2000, not completely frozen, but 1/4000 is even faster.

04-15-2016, 04:37 PM	#5
hcc Pentaxian Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Brisbane, Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,002	Yes definitely. In fact, I would love a faster shutter speed (eg 1/20,000 s). When you shoot action, a high shutter speed is a basic requirement to freeze the action and have crisp, sharp photographs.

04-15-2016, 04:42 PM	#6
mike.hiran Site Supporter Join Date: May 2007 Location: portland Photos: Albums Posts: 1,491	I think the main reason I'd want 1/8000 is for shooting wide open with a fast lens in daylight. That extra stop can make all the difference...

04-15-2016, 04:44 PM	#7
Danas_Anis Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 198	aren't you worried NX system might be dead? I am in pretty similar situation and am thinking nx1 or a6300. Shutter up to 1/4000 bugs me for some reason, even though I don't shoot at such high speeds, and the overheating issues reported worries me regarding a6300. Before the bizarre situation with Samsung NX cameras NX1 was my number one choice. I would prefer NX1 for its size and ergonomics. Pitty it never reached my country...

04-15-2016, 04:51 PM	#8
JensE Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Leipzig Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,969	Originally posted by hcc When you shoot action, a high shutter speed is a basic requirement to freeze the action and have crisp, sharp photographs. Fast shutter speeds would be nice, but in reality they already only help to freeze objects which are small compared to the full picture. Anything significantly faster than the X-sync time is just created by the rear shutter curtain following the front curtain before the shutter is fully open, and thus leads to motion distortion of fast moving objects.

04-15-2016, 06:48 PM - 1 Like	#10
Franky2step Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Niagara Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 793	Yes you do. In fact, I use 1/16000th on my Fuji for 56mm f1.2 images in sunlight

04-24-2016, 01:27 AM	#13
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,894	I use 1/8000s very rarely indeed. It's only one stop. On the other hand, as great as the Samsung may be, the seem to be sadly abandoning the interchangeable lens camera market so I wouldn't invest in their gear. Go with Sony NEX or Fuji X instead. The Fuji X-Pro 2 goes to 1/8000s, I'm not sure if any of the other models do.

04-24-2016, 07:09 AM	#15
Franky2step Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Niagara Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 793	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac I use 1/8000s very rarely indeed. It's only one stop. On the other hand, as great as the Samsung may be, the seem to be sadly abandoning the interchangeable lens camera market so I wouldn't invest in their gear. Go with Sony NEX or Fuji X instead. The Fuji X-Pro 2 goes to 1/8000s, I'm not sure if any of the other models do. the Fuji X-PRO2 and X-T1 actually go to 1/32000th of a second with it's electronic shutter(1/8000th mechanical for X-PRO2, 1/4000th X-T1)