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07-24-2016, 04:04 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
I am considering a used SMC-DA 21mm f3,2 as a modern walk-around lens. Does the adapter with aperture control allow me to stop a lens like this? And which one do you have? Thanks.
Yes, an adapter with aperture control is intended to stop down DA lenses like the 21mm. From research and personal experience I recommend Fotodiox or RJ adapters. I bought a Fotodiox with aperture control.

QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Be aware there are no stops shown and no calibration marks. You can however tell how much you have stopped down by the behavior of meter or by eyeballing it.
What UncleVanya said. Frankly it's not a pleasant experience, IMO. I don`t mind shooting lenses with an aperture ring. DA lenses, not so much.

PS The Sigma DN 19mm f2.8 is a nice lens for not much money for the a6000.

07-24-2016, 07:11 PM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
Yes, an adapter with aperture control is intended to stop down DA lenses like the 21mm. From research and personal experience I recommend Fotodiox or RJ adapters. I bought a Fotodiox with aperture control.



What UncleVanya said. Frankly it's not a pleasant experience, IMO. I don`t mind shooting lenses with an aperture ring. DA lenses, not so much.

PS The Sigma DN 19mm f2.8 is a nice lens for not much money for the a6000.
I find it OK but only if I have a specific f/stop in mind and can preset it or if I don't care much about the exact f/stop and just want to view it to judge DOF. It is much easier to shoot lenses with Aperture rings on this kind of adapter.
07-25-2016, 01:18 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
PS The Sigma DN 19mm f2.8 is a nice lens for not much money for the a6000.
I am thinking of using my current a5000 body and a single lens as a cheaper alternative to a Ricoh GR or Nikon Coolpix A. Putting this along with the DA 21 onto my watch list. Thanks.
07-25-2016, 07:24 AM   #49
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
I am thinking of using my current a5000 body and a single lens as a cheaper alternative to a Ricoh GR or Nikon Coolpix A. Putting this along with the DA 21 onto my watch list. Thanks.
To use together? Be aware the adapter adds a lot of bulk. I have used my DA 40 that way on my GX7 and enjoyed it - but the compactness of the DA 40 is spoiled by that use. The DA 40 plus adapter is more like an FA 31 sized lens then (maybe a touch smaller).

07-25-2016, 08:38 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
To use together? Be aware the adapter adds a lot of bulk. I have used my DA 40 that way on my GX7 and enjoyed it - but the compactness of the DA 40 is spoiled by that use. The DA 40 plus adapter is more like an FA 31 sized lens then (maybe a touch smaller).
I guess that the Sigma DN 19 should be compact enough, but I need some more research.
07-25-2016, 12:00 PM   #51
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I'd recommend going with Sony. I have the 5n, 6 and now the A7rII.

There's more adapters being built for Sonys than any other mirrorless - I think . I bought my 2 Pentax adapters for $20ea from Amazon.

At first, i thought the Sony Nex cameras were built a bit flimsy, but i have yet to have any breaks for malfunctions in any of Sony cameras. What they are is lightweight and small. What they've added starting with the Nex 6 and later are the Function button and other customizing options. These customization options have much improved the ergonomics of the Sony cameras.

Fuji lineup does not include the option to go FF at some point. FF may not be something you would like today, but thats what i thought at one time. Now i won't give up FF and sell my pics thru a gallery.
07-26-2016, 05:36 AM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbaum Quote
Fuji lineup does not include the option to go FF at some point. FF may not be something you would like today, but thats what i thought at one time. Now i won't give up FF and sell my pics thru a gallery.
Fuji are getting ready to introduce their medium format mirrorless system. That'll be their upgrade path, and although it will require a new lens mount, I'm sure there will be adapters too. When it comes to legacy glass specifically, though. . . Then we're talking about lenses designed to work on 135 format film, and for those the Sony A7 series is The Ticket.

07-28-2016, 07:04 PM   #53
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A couple of pieces of info needed.
Jpg or Raw? Evf or screen?

You've indicated handheld, rather than tripod.

Personally, I had a bad run with Sony (screen coating wear, sensor deadspots), and did not enjoy the ui of the nex series.

The results were ok though (nex5n, a6000) but ultimately, I took the a6000 back.

I have had the xe1 for coming up four years, and adapt M42, PK (m,a), and Minolta MD glass.

For less than 250 USD and especially if shooting Jpg, I still don't think it can really be matched. Fuji native lenses are expensive, so just get either of the kits, if needed.

For raw, yes, you have to factor in the converter (sharpness, green textures on LR still suck). For dynamic range, and overall malleability, they are ok.

For EOS-M, not bad. Decent native STM lenses (liked playing with the 22mm, especially), for fairly cheap. Raws are ok, IMO, Dr is fairly skinny with the level of sensors used. Works well with LR though.

For Sony, yes, better now, but I did find the A7 tinny, loud, and actually really bad for battery, even compared to Fuji. I always carry spares, which are cheap.

In terms of IQ, the Bayer of ff Sony or otherwise does seem to get you about 10-15% better. Else, personally, I would also choose crop, and get wider lenses.
07-28-2016, 07:39 PM   #54
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Here's a shot I took today with my A7 and a Pentax-A lens.

Last edited by Sliver-Surfer; 07-28-2016 at 08:05 PM.
07-29-2016, 07:51 AM   #55
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clarkey Quote
Dr is fairly skinny with the level of sensors used.
I shoot trains a lot, and have learned to appreciate the rather large dynamic range & exposure latitude of my Sony a5000 (which is pretty large considering it is only a consumer body, not prosumer or professional).





When I was taking this shot, the light meter of my a5000 body actually overexposed the train, but I was still able to manipulate the RAW file and place the white livery in Zone IX and the black part in Zone I, thanks to the exposure latitude and dynamic range of the Sony sensor. If Canon does not have a pretty good DR and exposure latitude, then it will be out of my list.

---------- Post added 07-29-16 at 07:57 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Clarkey Quote
Jpg or Raw? Evf or screen?
I almost shoot RAW+JPEG all the time, and all my final results are developed with Lr and Google Nik Collection.

I want an EVF and a hotshoe.

I am also venturing into videography because of my college minor in media studies, and I have heard that Fuji does terrible video in some reviews, despite their top still quality.

---------- Post added 07-29-16 at 07:59 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Sliver-Surfer Quote
Here's a shot I took today with my A7 and a Pentax-A lens.




a5000 and ENSINOR 24mm F2.8 Macro Lens Reviews - Miscellaneous Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database and I have to say that manual focus actually works better than autofocus when a train is rushing in front of you.
07-29-2016, 06:25 PM   #56
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Be aware there are no stops shown and no calibration marks. You can however tell how much you have stopped down by the behavior of meter or by eyeballing it.
I thought Pentax lenses w/o aperture ring is stopped down electronically. So the adapter does not report aperture back to the body nor can understand the aperture data from the lens?
07-29-2016, 07:13 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
I thought Pentax lenses w/o aperture ring is stopped down electronically. So the adapter does not report aperture back to the body nor can understand the aperture data from the lens?
The Aperture on DA lenses are Identified and controlled pretty much the same way a Pentax-A,F and FA lens is when it is set to A on their aperture rings. The way you can Identify your aperture on an adapter is by learning your Exposure Triangle and observing how many stops your iso changes or shutterspeed (depending on Camera Mode). If your shutterspeed changes by 1 stop when you turn your aperture ring then that means you've changed your aperture about one stop(if iso is unchanged and vice versa).
07-29-2016, 07:25 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
I thought Pentax lenses w/o aperture ring is stopped down electronically. So the adapter does not report aperture back to the body nor can understand the aperture data from the lens?
Only on the latest 55-300 lens recently announced. All others use mechanical linkage.
07-30-2016, 01:44 AM - 1 Like   #59
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I discovered something interesting about Super Takumars. They have the MAN/AUTO switch that lets you easily flip the iris open or shut with your thumb. So for example, you could be walking around in the daylight with your aperture ring set on F8, then flip the switch to focus wide-open, then flip it shut again and take your photo at F8. There's no need to turn the ring and count clicks. It's actually more convenient than using K-mount lenses on a mirrorless camera.

The catch is, this works with the official Pentax M42 adapter ring inside a K-mount adapter, but it doesn't work with most actual M42-to-mirrorless adapters sold today. Most of them have a flange that depresses the pin on the lens and keeps it stopped down, regardless of the switch position. This was required for some M42 lenses (other than Pentax) that have the pin but no switch. Without the flange they would always be wide open, and you'd have no aperture control at all.

In case it needs to be said again. . . Takumars are lovely. Plus, there's a whole world of other vintage M42 lenses.
07-30-2016, 06:31 AM   #60
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QuoteOriginally posted by butangmucat Quote
I thought Pentax lenses w/o aperture ring is stopped down electronically. So the adapter does not report aperture back to the body nor can understand the aperture data from the lens?
The body doesn't need to know the aperture. If you set the body to Av mode while using an M42 lens, you can set any aperture desired, and the body will read light coming through the lens and set itself to the proper shutter speed {but, of course you're focusing and framing at that aperture unless you use Tony's trick above}. That is why M42 lenses are my short-term backup in case my K-30 were to come down with the aperture control malady - using M42 lenses means that my camera's aperture control aparatus is completely out of the picture {no pun intended}.
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