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01-23-2017, 07:07 AM   #46
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I'd concentrate on light. In particular off camera flash and strobist technique. Mastering this makes for fabulous results.

Spending the money on something like the Godox Wistro system with suitable light modifiers (Westcott Orb and Halo) might be a better investment.

02-05-2017, 11:43 PM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by ozturert Quote
I have taken wedding photos with other cameras, I have used K1 in low light, and I say I will not trust K1 for low light wedding ceremonies.
If anyone here uses K1 for wedding ceremonies in churches or dark party halls, then he/she is welcome to share experience.
Not a church or dark party hall, but I've photographed a wedding in a forest (all the tree cover made for lots of low-light shots). The K-1 handled low light fine.
02-06-2017, 12:26 AM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by ozturert Quote
You cannot take wedding photos where you need to catch moments with a manual lens so you need a solid 24-70mm f2.8. Still, low light focus capability of K1 is nowhere near even d700 (maybe slightly better than D610).
You don't need only high ISO capability, you also need to nail the focus when you need it.
I must have missed that brief. I took this (amongst many other perfectly focussed shots) last night at a 21st party. This is very heavy crop with the K-1 and DFA*70-200 @ 200mm wide open. This girl doesn't stand still and it was quite a task following her around.
Yes, it's a flash exposure, but the ambient light (during which the AF happens) was pretty damn low, as you can tell from the size of her pupils.



The K-1 might not have industry-leading tracking AF, but in low light it's very good indeed. If you can't nail focus with it you're doing something wrong, or you have the wrong lenses.
02-06-2017, 01:14 AM   #49
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Sandy, you've got the Assymetrical eyebrows there!.....K1s do it!

02-06-2017, 01:44 AM   #50
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QuoteOriginally posted by surfar Quote
Sandy, you've got the Assymetrical eyebrows there!.....K1s do it!
Yep. Definitely the camera's fault
02-13-2017, 10:10 PM - 1 Like   #51
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Wed7 - ignoring most of the ignorable 'advice' about autofocus performance and shooting weddings in dark caves, sometimes you just need to buy the proper tools to do a paying job. A cheap socket set from a discount store looks almost the same and can probably get the job done as well as professional tools like Snap-On in most situations; which would you prefer to see your mechanic using? If you're an Apple person, but your office uses Android and Windows, you use Android and Windows.

If the people you're working with shoot canon, get a 6D or better a 5Dii or 5Diii, or even a 1D series. If they shoot Nikon, get a D750 or D800/810 or a D4. Maybe they have a workflow or post processing system built around those cameras and their sensors, maybe they'll want you to be able to share flash triggers, lenses, or other equipment. Maybe they want to try to weed out hobbyists, rank amateurs, and the 'mom with a dslr' types that think they are pro's since it's their reputation and paychecks on the line if you deliver substandard results.

If you want to shoot a Pentax crop body, shoot your own weddings. If you want to be someone's 2nd or 3rd, you'll have to adapt to what they want and expect for their business.
02-13-2017, 10:19 PM   #52
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QuoteOriginally posted by skierd Quote
Wed7 - ignoring most of the ignorable 'advice' about autofocus performance and shooting weddings in dark caves, sometimes you just need to buy the proper tools to do a paying job. A cheap socket set from a discount store looks almost the same and can probably get the job done as well as professional tools like Snap-On in most situations; which would you prefer to see your mechanic using? If you're an Apple person, but your office uses Android and Windows, you use Android and Windows.

If the people you're working with shoot canon, get a 6D or better a 5Dii or 5Diii, or even a 1D series. If they shoot Nikon, get a D750 or D800/810 or a D4. Maybe they have a workflow or post processing system built around those cameras and their sensors, maybe they'll want you to be able to share flash triggers, lenses, or other equipment. Maybe they want to try to weed out hobbyists, rank amateurs, and the 'mom with a dslr' types that think they are pro's since it's their reputation and paychecks on the line if you deliver substandard results.

If you want to shoot a Pentax crop body, shoot your own weddings. If you want to be someone's 2nd or 3rd, you'll have to adapt to what they want and expect for their business.
Thank you very much Dave.
02-14-2017, 09:00 AM   #53
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I'll also add that if you do want to start shooting your own events with your Pentax (what do you have btw?) you definitely can. I've shot several with a K30, as both the primary and the second, and it's got plenty of performance as long as you don't machine gun raws as you can easily run out of buffer. The DA* 50-135 is perfect for this work, and the 16-50 or the 20-40 make good walk arounds for the reception.

Invest in a second body. I've had a camera lock up before, not fun if the brides walking down the aisle...

You'll need a flash; I use an all manual flash setup but a pTTL flash will be easier on-camera.

02-14-2017, 10:16 PM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by skierd Quote
I'll also add that if you do want to start shooting your own events with your Pentax (what do you have btw?) you definitely can. I've shot several with a K30, as both the primary and the second, and it's got plenty of performance as long as you don't machine gun raws as you can easily run out of buffer. The DA* 50-135 is perfect for this work, and the 16-50 or the 20-40 make good walk arounds for the reception.

Invest in a second body. I've had a camera lock up before, not fun if the brides walking down the aisle...

You'll need a flash; I use an all manual flash setup but a pTTL flash will be easier on-camera.
Thanks,

I have the Metz 58v1 for the flash Sigma 50-150/2.8 and Tamron 17-50/2.8 for the zooms.
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