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01-07-2018, 11:21 AM   #16
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What aperture are you set at?

01-07-2018, 11:23 AM   #17
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Hope you get the camera you want. Just remember that AF is not only camera, but also lens. A light lens with good AF motor will focus faster than a cheap lens. A lens with wide aperture will allow AF in lower light than a slow lens. Enjoy your Nikon or Canon or Sony. Their higher end bodies (read: more expensive than the K-3) will give you better AF performance, if an appropriate lens is mounted.
01-07-2018, 11:24 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
No problem i'm always open to helpful directions or suggestions!
I used the SpyderLENSCAL, both setup on tripods.
I only use spot
AFS
D FA24-70 and D FA*70-200 on K-1 No
200mm 1/180s
iso400
RAW
enabled
face (eye)
?
to slow never use LV
Hmm. For stationary subjects, that all sounds fine. Have you taken test shots with your setup on a tripod to verify that they're sharp? How good is your hold on the camera and lens, and your shutter release - any chance you may be grabbing and rotating the camera when releasing the shutter? I had a problem with this myself some time ago - not enough to cause blur, but it was giving me tilted horizons.

For nephews running around the garden, you'll need to use AF.C, a higher shutter speed (1/500s or faster, I'd say), and a bigger focus area than spot (unless you're incredible at tracking moving subjects).

Is there any chance you could post a photo with EXIF, and perhaps a 1:1 reproduction crop of an unsharp area? If so, we could probably make some more accurate observations about what's happening...
01-07-2018, 11:28 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
The grass is always greener ... For sports I often use manual focus and CIF. Works for me.
Yep. Greener grass.

I am not saying that AF should be done away with by any means...but in general people that want to progress in photography need to learn how to NOT use it. Then they can learn what it does and what the particular AF system they have---how it actually behaves. Even different modes on the same camera will act differently.

I practiced my manual focus skills by setting up near a hummingbird feeder. Hand held I tried to capture hummingbirds in flight with a manual 50mm at f1.4.

I've also shot rodeos and even my friend's hyperactive 3 year old wide open (f1.4) and manage to get a number of keepers. In fact the longer I've practiced the skill the amount of keepers I get has gone up a lot percentage wise.

I am not at all advocating this camera or that one, but any of them will have short comings.

I would even go so far as to argue the point that knowing how to use the proper functions on the camera and how to really use manual focus will make a photographer a better user of auto focus in the end. It all depends on what the end goal is for the photographer in question.

01-07-2018, 11:33 AM   #20
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That actual image he was stationary. i have not attempted to upload raw images and when i export in LR all that info is gone.
01-07-2018, 11:39 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
That actual image he was stationary. i have not attempted to upload raw images and when i export in LR all that info is gone.
You don't need to upload the RAW image. If you export from Lightroom to JPEG the data should still be intact. If you are using a Windows based computer and aren't sure, right click on the JPEG you exported and go to "Properties". Under the 'Details' tab it should contain all the info.

I would definitely like to see some images because I really and honestly do think the feedback you get here will help you become a better photographer.
01-07-2018, 11:45 AM   #22
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Here are some that I missed the focus.

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01-07-2018, 11:48 AM   #23
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Using cdaf (live view) will always give you a sharp image as long as the camera knows what it is supposed to focus on. Throwing money at a problem is not always the best solution. Sometimes you can solve it with stuff you already have.

Edit: those shots look sharp to me at this magnification. Are you sure it is not subject motion. Always use a high shutterspeed when shooting moving subjects.
01-07-2018, 11:53 AM   #24
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A few I did ok on the focus.

---------- Post added 01-07-18 at 12:56 PM ----------

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Last edited by kjphilippona; 01-07-2018 at 12:01 PM.
01-07-2018, 11:57 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
Here are some that I missed the focus.
I can't tell enough from those images. Too small and no exif data.
01-07-2018, 12:00 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
That actual image he was stationary. i have not attempted to upload raw images and when i export in LR all that info is gone.
OK... well, considering your settings (which sound fine), I would try - however slow and cumbersome you may find it - to take some photos using Live View (at least for stationary subjects). If all of those are sharp, then it might point to inaccuracies in your AF fine adjustments for phase detect AF. Or, it could be that the adjustments are fine based on the distance at which you photographed your LensCal target, but at longer distances they're not. Then again, it could be that the lenses require different settings at different focal lengths (this isn't uncommon with zooms).

If it's not AF fine adjustment at fault, the most likely culprit to me is something in the way you're holding the camera or releasing the shutter, or general steadiness. You might try using a faster shutter speed for stationary shots too... 1/500s or even 1/1000s, just to see if you get an improvement in the number of keepers. That kind of shutter speed should minimise the effects of camera and lens movement. If you see a marked improvement, you can work on your steadiness, hold and shutter release. Perhaps also try shooting at high shutter speeds with the shake reduction switched off. SR is really useful, but there are occasions where it can reduce ultimate sharpness.
01-07-2018, 12:00 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
Hope you get the camera you want. Just remember that AF is not only camera, but also lens. A light lens with good AF motor will focus faster than a cheap lens. A lens with wide aperture will allow AF in lower light than a slow lens. Enjoy your Nikon or Canon or Sony. Their higher end bodies (read: more expensive than the K-3) will give you better AF performance, if an appropriate lens is mounted.

All these pictures were taken with the K-1 and D FA24-70 f2.8 or D FA*70-200 f2.8

---------- Post added 01-07-18 at 01:01 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by robgski Quote
What aperture are you set at?
f6.7 or f8.0
01-07-2018, 12:16 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
A few I did ok on the focus.
A little difficult to tell at these repro sizes, Kim, but it looks like those missed focus shots are all focused slightly in front of the subject... Is there a chance you could be rocking back-and-forth a little when shooting, perhaps due to poor stance? Again, this is a problem I had quite a while back, and it drove me crazy. For some time, I had to really concentrate on getting my stance, hold and breathing just right before taking a shot. It becomes second nature after a while, but I still check myself occasionally in case I drift into bad habits.

EDIT: I was looking at the wrong set of photos

Looking at all of them, though, including those where you feel you did OK, I'm getting the feeling that focusing is slightly in front of the focus point. Would you agree?
01-07-2018, 12:28 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
A little difficult to tell at these repro sizes, Kim, but it looks like those missed focus shots are all focused slightly in front of the subject... Is there a chance you could be rocking back-and-forth a little when shooting, perhaps due to poor stance? Again, this is a problem I had quite a while back, and it drove me crazy. For some time, I had to really concentrate on getting my stance, hold and breathing just right before taking a shot. It becomes second nature after a while, but I still check myself occasionally in case I drift into bad habits.

EDIT: I was looking at the wrong set of photos

Looking at all of them, though, including those where you feel you did OK, I'm getting the feeling that focusing is slightly in front of the focus point. Would you agree?
Yes, as soon as the weather straightens up, I will set up my lens calibration gear again and try one more time
01-07-2018, 12:30 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by kjphilippona Quote
That actual image he was stationary. i have not attempted to upload raw images and when i export in LR all that info is gone.
When you export the images go to the bottom of the export screen and change the setting.
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