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08-14-2018, 06:43 AM   #16
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John,

I think you are correct. Ilford FP4 has really meaty backing paper and my misinterpretation of what was the starting point didn't help matters. The mechanics of the camera film advance are sufficiently robust with defined end-stops each wind-on, and I don't think this is a problem. I note that the film roll is a good, tight fit into the carriage and I suspect the tolerances have changed from when metal film spools were used originally.

I'll load another film and hopefully won't waste four shots!

08-14-2018, 01:05 PM   #17
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Here's a pic I took on the Baldix: a few others on the same 'Flickr' group. I'm going to like playing with this and look forward to getting twelve square negs after proper film alignment. Copied with a Sony RX 100 II and inverted in Photoshop.

08-15-2018, 12:17 AM   #18
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Nice results with the text on the mugs looking sharp (with expected drop off at the edges). I looked at the other shots on your Flickr post and the other results look fine. I like the depth of field you've achieved with the long shot of the chap with the lawn mower.
There doesn't appear to be bellows light leakage.
Also very nice results achieved without using a dedicated scanner.
08-15-2018, 02:53 AM   #19
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Thanks, John.

I have another roll of FP4 in at the mo and shall get some Ilford Delta 400 through it next. Most of the shots were at 1/100 sec and apertures between f4.5 and f8 although the mug-shot was f16 @ 1/25 sec and I had the camera resting on the draining board. I need to take a flash pic or two and use the extremities of aperture and speed, which I shall, in time.

I'll consider a set of tubes so I can use my Canon EOS 5D Mk:1 and 40mm f2.8 pancake lens for copying. My set-up is just a fluorescent lightbox, a cardboard mask and sheet of glass with the copy camera on a sturdy Benbo tripod and aligned with a spirit-level. I move the light box beneath laterally for fine adjustment.

08-16-2018, 11:37 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Johndav Quote
'...but of course if you've set the counter to start at the wrong bit will this have been a factor?'
Evidently the film advance mechanism on the Mess-Baldix is cleverly designed to factor in the ever-increasing diameter of the take-up spool and reduce its travel accordingly to maintain the same distance between frames. Little wonder, then, that starting off prematurely would result in an overlap!


I'll tell better when I develop my second (and correctly aligned) film later.
08-20-2018, 05:11 PM   #21
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I have a Voigtlander Bessa 66 standard model.

[IMG][/IMG]

I is loaded with a roll of Ultrafine 100 now, I plan to finish the roll in the next couple of days. If the exposures work out, I'll post some.

Phil
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