1) if you friend wants to use the FD glass with a film body, like others noted, have him use an FD body. Cheap and excellent: among the best: A1 and new F1. I've used an A1 for the last 5 years (until my K20D came). It's small, light but not too light and has great usability. It will measure even pretty dim light levels. The newer F1 is a bit higher end and built like a tank, just as the older F1. I used an FTb1 since the mid-70's and it is still working well. Built almost as tought as the F1's.
2) RELATIVELY GOOD NEWS FOR YOUR FRIEND: a) you can buy one of a couple of third-party adapters that have excellent review to use FD glass on *some* of the 4/3 bodies e.g. from Panasonic or Olympus. You will get a smallish DSLR out of this, and everything will be manual: focussing, stop-down metering. There will be a 2x crop factor - 50mm lens will show the field of view of a 100mm lens.
RELATIVELY GOOD NEWS FOR YOUR FRIEND: b) if you friend wants to use FD glass on a very compact body without optical viewfinder - have him check out the Olympus E-P1 announced just these days:
The Online Photographer: Olympus E-P1 'Digital Pen' Officially Announced
3) To use FD glass on EF bodies is only usable for close-up and macro work, as without adaptors you will lose infinity focus. Not the greatest solution.
4) To use FD glass on ED bodies while preserving infinity focus, as quoted below, the incompatibility is in good part due to the distance between the end of the lens and the focal plane in the body. Cheap adapters will degrade performance too much. The Canon adaptors were built in very small numbers over 20 years ago, and run at least $1000 on ebay if you can find them - and you loose an F-stop or so. (And there is a bit of cropping).
Originally posted by pingflood The reason for that is that the register distance of FD was 42mm while EF is 44mm. So unless the FD lens has enough 'slop' past infinity it won't work on EF at oo unless you can somehow shove it 2mm deeper into the body.