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10-31-2009, 08:40 PM   #1
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cannon and nikon better light receiving?

recently i used a nikon and a cannon 450d, i forget the nikon but it was a good one.
for cannon i used kit lens 18-55 and compared it with my k20d kit lens, but what i noticed was that cannon in general did better? but when i was looking at the features, everything seemed pretty much automatic, it seemed like they made it a hussle to control aperature, same with nikon. so it seemed like they where "Better' because they had functions to automaticly deal with triky light situations?
and also, when i take a pic in doors with a regular blub (gives yellowish light) my pics where yellowish, with the AWB on, but cannon seemed to be better with that. when i took picutres with cannon or nikon the camera seemed to adjust to the light settings and took the yellowish light off. is this have to do anything with the shutter speed or just the different cameras brands in general?

10-31-2009, 08:50 PM   #2
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The two things you mentioned here are two of pentax's weakness on the K20d IINM. The first is that the matrix metering on K20d is not as smart as Nikon and Canon's. In general I find that with K10 and K100d with 'tricky' light situation of sky covering 40% of the frame, I have to dial +0.7 exposure compensation to have the foreground properly exposed. If the Pentax is properly exposed it shouldn't lag behind canonikon at all; in fact K20d is one of the class leaders in terms of IQ. But it's true that Pentax isn't as good at automation as Canonikon models. In my case I'm so used to dialing exp compensation when sky is in the frame that it just becomes second nature... on trickier lighting situations I usually just use M mode.

The second case of AWB is a problem with the K20D as well. AWB with Tungsten, or even with the 'tungsten' setting does appear a bit yellowish. This has already been fixed in subsequent models (K-7 and K-x)

Last edited by Andi Lo; 10-31-2009 at 08:56 PM.
10-31-2009, 08:52 PM   #3
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Is this also yje case fot the K-7?
10-31-2009, 08:55 PM   #4
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K-7 have fixed issue 2. On issue 1 K-7 should be better than the K20d due to the added metering points, but someone that actually uses it should confirm this...

10-31-2009, 08:59 PM   #5
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dang, this really troubles me. i wish i could trade in my k20d and some money for a k-7 :/
ahh by the way do you mind explainning what a IQ is?
10-31-2009, 09:03 PM   #6
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as light condition wise i have been very disappointed with k20d :/ sometimes i want to return it. but i do still like it..
10-31-2009, 09:22 PM   #7
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K20d metering should be no problem once you get used to how it behaves. Like I said after a while you know how the camera will react to a certain situation. On more challenging conditions / light sources you should just stick to M mode. I got used to it with the worse K100d, shooting events and sports even so it should be fine with the K20d. I dont know what you use your camera for though, so YMMV

IQ = image quality. I dont know how it's defined but I always think of it as the sensor's sharpness and dynamic range... not sure if there's any other variable involved.

It just means pictures from the K20d is awesome!

11-01-2009, 12:46 AM   #8
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White Balance has more to do with the software, weather it's in the camera or built into the computer program than anything else.
Often just a simple Firmware update, or upgrading your computers image software will improve your results.

As for exposure. I found the Pentax almost perfect when I shot in Auto modes
One thing I found a little unusual with Pentax is even in full auto modes you can specify some over or under exposure compensation.
If your getting consistently over or under exposed results you may want to ensure this setting is correct on your camera.
11-01-2009, 05:51 AM   #9
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K-7's awb and metering are exponentially better than the K10D.

c[_]
11-01-2009, 03:19 PM   #10
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do your guys use pentax softwares on the computer? 0.0?
11-01-2009, 04:58 PM   #11
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yellowish look of the pentax pictures could be related to underexposing tendency - there is interesting to notice: when you adjust exposure according to histogram usually brighter picture you get and the brighter the picture the less yellow tint becomes pronounced... check this its working...
11-01-2009, 06:02 PM   #12
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Look at the Dynamic ranges of the various cameras, and what impact that has?

per DPreview...Middle gray at 200 ISO

Pentax
K7= 2.9 EV
K20=3.2 EV

Nikon
DX3=3.7 EV (iso 100)
D5000=4.0 EV

Canon
1DSM3=3.5 EV
500D=3.5 EV
11-01-2009, 07:58 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtroute Quote
Look at the Dynamic ranges of the various cameras, and what impact that has?

per DPreview...Middle gray at 200 ISO

....
Thats highlight range not dynamic range... ;-)

Dynamic range

Pentax k7 = 8.6 EV
Canon EOS 50d = 8.3EV
Pentax K20d = 9.1EV
Nikon D300 = 8.9EV
11-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #14
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Oh and I'm not sure if you know but shooting raw and tweaking the white balance in post would get rid of the tungsten color problem altogether.
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