Originally posted by tuco Set it to ISO1600 and like Ratmagiclady said, put it manual and "under expose" it a stop.
Or a half-stop, or even two-thirds. *Except* with flash or any other light that might wash things out, like a spotlight, when pushing film, you can usually err on the side of 'a little over' (especially compared to what meters and sensor may say) and actually do better.
Usually, when I push, I will, for instance, expose at 2000 and develop for 3200: pretty generous, but I also know I can get niceness that way, and still be pretty good at the rated speed, if I have to press matters. Thinking that way actually works, you just have to watch out for those big differences in brightness. Sometimes those big bright spots are your subject.
Also, learn what I call 'the waggle,' which is a habit I picked up in youth using a similar display to the ME Super: don't take your light readings like you're measuring the 'photo,' ....move the meter (aka, your ME Super) around and read *the light.* The metering pattern is 'center-weighted,' meaning it pays proportionally-more attention to the middle of the frame, and since when you're pushing film, it tends to be near the bottom end of that meter's sensitivity, you want to *know* what it's trying to tell you and where it can't.
(This is simpler than it sounds: just pay attention to what happens when you do this, you should get a feel for what the meter's trying to tell you and how. Low-light photography tends to mean you really want to learn to read the light for yourself: the meter just helps you calibrate your own senses: your brain and eyes can be very good at judging *relative* brightness, (within several stops, anyway) not always so much the absolutes. I'm so used to this even my sci-fi-like K20d rarely comes off old-fashioned centerweighted metering, these days. (Though, admittedly, the matrix metering seems to be great at ignoring light-sources-in-frame.
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