[Gooshin]

i found a roll of film that i never developed, it is a fuji neopan 400.

however the mystery is that i THINK i did some crazy pushing with this film, and for the life of me i can't remember if it was 800, 1600, or even 3200

i'm thinking i tell the shop to develop at 1600 and just wing it? If i ask them to develop at 1000-1200 would they even bother? I dont think shops nowdays want anything outside standard procedure.

[Nesster]

http://www.fujifilm.pl/doc/filmy/Fujichrome_Neopan400_szczegolowa_charakterystyka.pdf

Per the Fuji sheet, say D-76 at 20C is 7 1/2 for 400, 8 3/4 for 800 and 13 1/2 for 1600
I'd be tempted to go with the EI 800 time, rounded to 9 minutes, in your case

[SpecialK]

Have the lab do a snip test on a few frames to determine how to process the rest.

[irishwhite]

Have the lab do a snip test on a few frames to determine how to process the rest.

Does the film have to be exposed in order to see what speed it is? I'm asking because I recently bought a bulk loader from ebay and it had some black and white film already in it. I've shot it but have no idea if i'm using the right ISO setting (i choose 400)

Also, is there any reason a local lab (like a cvs) would be unable to process film you load yourself? I believe some newer cameras will have issues with it because the cassette I'm using isn't DX Encoded, but don't know if that's important to them as far as processing. I just figured when I order a proper roll of film, I'll be able to tell them the specifics.

[stevebrot]

Does the film have to be exposed in order to see what speed it is? I'm asking because I recently bought a bulk loader from ebay and it had some black and white film already in it. I've shot it but have no idea if i'm using the right ISO setting (i choose 400)

Also, is there any reason a local lab (like a cvs) would be unable to process film you load yourself? I believe some newer cameras will have issues with it because the cassette I'm using isn't DX Encoded, but don't know if that's important to them as far as processing. I just figured when I order a proper roll of film, I'll be able to tell them the specifics.

You can process a snippet and there may be an imprint on the sprocket margin that will identify the film.

Most labs will not process bulk-loaded films or if they do, they will not return your cassette. As for CVS...they likely will only do C41 process.


Steve

[Nesster]

Also, is there any reason a local lab (like a cvs) would be unable to process film you load yourself? I believe some newer cameras will have issues with it because the cassette I'm using isn't DX Encoded, but don't know if that's important to them as far as processing. I just figured when I order a proper roll of film, I'll be able to tell them the specifics.

As Steve says, bulk loaded film is "Real" b&w, and has to be developed in a "Real" b&w set up, not a minilab, the way things are. CVS is a minilab and they do a good job (depending on store) with C-41, but they stopped sending film out a couple of years ago...

If you are doing traditional 'real' b&w film, a local camera store of the mom'n'pop variety will probably develop it... or you can send it to a mail order place. The economics of this aren't great - compared to both c-41 minilabs and the cost of setting up your own developing at home.

Does the film have to be exposed in order to see what speed it is? I'm asking because I recently bought a bulk loader from ebay and it had some black and white film already in it. I've shot it but have no idea if i'm using the right ISO setting (i choose 400)

400 is a good guess - most likely the film will be in the 100-400 area, and you should get ok pics with 100 film exposed at 400... or you can take the safest, central route and shoot the first roll around 200. At any rate, the first roll you shoot will let you know how to expose the rest of the film

[irishwhite]

Thanks so much guys! I guess I had thought that buying film in bulk, and developing on my own would save me money over time but maybe that's not the case? I don't have a darkroom setup and all, but maybe one day I'll get one going.

Thanks again!

[stevebrot]

Thanks so much guys! I guess I had thought that buying film in bulk, and developing on my own would save me money over time but maybe that's not the case? I don't have a darkroom setup and all, but maybe one day I'll get one going.

Thanks again!

Bulk loading and home processing can save you money. My cost per roll including processing is only about $1.50 per 36 exposure roll for my last 100' roll of Legacy Pro 100. The rub comes with getting positive images from the negatives. Decent scanners are expensive as is the option of having a lab scan your B&W images. Traditional darkroom enlarging is do-able, but is very time consuming and fairly expensive as well.


Steve

[Nesster]

+1 on what Steve says, though you can get OK scans from 135. The usual flatbed home scanners do much better with 120 film.

Home processing, even with non-bulk film, ends up being more economical than the other alternatives. The front end costs are fairly modest - a tank + accessories, the chemistry + accessories, a good size changing / dark bag. Once set up the only real cost is buying new film and a new bit of chemistry every now and then. Even these can be cheap - for example, I bought a couple of 1 gallon bags of D-76 for $2 each, at a camera show.

Of course, unless you get bit by the dread DBA - Developer Buying Addiction

[Kryosphinx]

snip.... The front end costs are fairly modest - a tank + accessories, the chemistry + accessories, a good size changing / dark bag. snip...

For ultimate cheapness, my choice of home processing equipment:

1. Clips: Any clips laying around the house will do. Heck, I've used paperclips bent to fit in the perforations. I hung the films in my bathroom, next to the shower curtain.
2. Thermometer: I stand develop, so I ignore temperature.
3. Timer: I stand develop, so accurate time isn't really important. However, every cell phone, laptop, and watch has stopwatch/timer features.
4. Measuring cups and things: I had measuring equipment in my cooking supplies. Just make sure you wash them very carefully after pouring chemicals inside.
5. Stop Bath: Diluted vinegar. As cheap as you can find it.
6. Changing bag: I duct taped a medium sized cardboard box until it was lightproof, and then taped arm sleeves made from black garbage bags and duct tape. To make sure no light leaks in, I toss my blanket over the whole thing and try to find a dim/dark room.
7. Scissors
8. Tank: fleabay special cost me $8 shipped. It came with two plastic reels. Hint: if you don't wind the leader up, you can actually start the spooling process with the leader and the couple inches of exposed film in the light and then toss the whole thing into the changing bag/box to finish with the light sensitive stuff.

I think that's all I use.... The only thing I actually bought for the home developing purposes was the tank.

Good luck!