[kelvin.wong]

I have got a Pentax k7 with the standard kit lens, other lenses will cost much more wide open and i want a nice man focus lens that i can use on a regular basis. I have heard that the Super Takumar has better colour but the SMC has better sharpness? Which one do you recommend?

[boriscleto]

There are 4 different versions of this lens, I own 3 of them. The Super Takumar ver. 1 (8-element) is in my opinion the best lens I own. The Super Takumar ver. 2 (7-element) is not nearly as good, but still a good lens. The S-M-C Takumar and SMC Takumar should be identical except for construction. They have the advantage of having 8 aperture blades instead of 6 and SMC coating. The three later versions all have a problem with yellowing.

[kelvin.wong]

If im buying on ebay how do i tell between the 8 or 7 element one?

[boriscleto]

That can be tricky. The serial number should be 154xxxx or lower, but that's not the most accurate way to tell. The best way to tell is that the red IR mark should be between the red diamond and the f/4 mark on the DOF scale. If it is to the left of the f/4 mark it is the 7-element version.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/117938-takumar...t-version.html

The last way to tell is that the rear element projects beyond the mount in the 8-element version when focused to infinity (it's rounded) on the 7-element version the rear element is flat.

[Tom in Delaware]

That can be tricky. The serial number should be 154xxxx or lower, but that's not the most accurate way to tell. The best way to tell is that the red IR mark should be between the red diamond and the f/4 mark on the DOF scale. If it is to the left of the f/4 mark it is the 7-element version.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/117938-takumar...t-version.html

The last way to tell is that the rear element projects beyond the mount in the 8-element version when focused to infinity (it's rounded) on the 7-element version the rear element is flat.

Huh. I just checked my camera cabinet and looks like I have a 8-element version from a black Spotmatic that I bought at an auction. I guess I'll have to start using it, didn't realize that they were so sought after now.

[kelvin.wong]

Lucky!! hahaha

[aheadfordinci]

I did some practical test on a m4/3 camera, and i was under the impression that difference in sharpness between the type I and II (or III) was (to me, at least) invisible.
However, the II type, possibly because of a bit of yellowing that I wasn't able to remove with sun baths, was protecting a very little bit more against white burnouts than the type I.

here one of the test I did:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/130855-50mm-th...t%2A-test.html

[Lowell Goudge]

At one time the 8 element was the sharpest 50mm made. Pentax changed to 7 element for all future production due to cost

I really should test my 8 element against my SMC(K) 50 F1.4. That would be interesting

[gabriel_bc]

At one time the 8 element was the sharpest 50mm made. Pentax changed to 7 element for all future production due to cost

I really should test my 8 element against my SMC(K) 50 F1.4. That would be interesting

Yes, please do! I'd be very interested to see the outcome.

[WJJ3]

Here are some insights about this topic by Mike Johnston:

My Favorite Lens

I have recently picked up one of these lenses in really nice condition, but it has the yellowing.

Here's a photo that I took with it mounted on my K100D Super. It doesn't really show the qualities of the lens' characteristics, but it's the only one that was convenient to up...

[John Poirier]

Here are some insights about this topic by Mike Johnston:

My Favorite Lens

I have recently picked up one of these lenses in really nice condition, but it has the yellowing.

Here's a photo that I took with it mounted on my K100D Super. It doesn't really show the qualities of the lens' characteristics, but it's the only one that was convenient to up...

I think Mike Johnson's piece says it pretty well. Personally, I wouldn't advise a beginner to agonize over getting exactly the "right" version of a normal lens.

Any Super Takumar/SMC 50 or 55 is capable of producing fine results provided it is in good condition. Super Multi Coating is a distinct asset in terms of flare resistance and light transmission.

I suggest that the OP might just keep things simple. 1.4 lenses are cool, but slower 50s/55s are easy to find, cheaper, not prone to yellowing, and make an excellent entry point.

My own approach is to use SMC lenses most of the time, switching to Super Takumars when I want the lower contrast of single-coated lenses.

I don't worry about yellowing- I shoot a lot of black and white film and like the effect, which is equivalent to a very light yellow filter.

BTW, not everyone agrees the the 8 element Super Takumar is the Holy Grail of 50/1.4s. Both Mike Johnson and Gerstan van Oosten state that the 7 element version is better.

John

[stevebrot]

...but slower 50s/55s are easy to find, cheaper, not prone to yellowing, and make an excellent entry point.

So true! The Super/SMC/S-M-C Takumar 55/1.8 is a good example of under-appreciated excellence. The same lens is available as the K55/1.8 if you want the convenience of a bayonet mount.


Steve

(...owns the K55 and has shot with the Super-Tak 55...excellent...)

[JVi]

That can be tricky. The serial number should be 154xxxx or lower, but that's not the most accurate way to tell. The best way to tell is that the red IR mark should be between the red diamond and the f/4 mark on the DOF scale. If it is to the left of the f/4 mark it is the 7-element version.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/117938-takumar...t-version.html

The last way to tell is that the rear element projects beyond the mount in the 8-element version when focused to infinity (it's rounded) on the 7-element version the rear element is flat.

One has to be careful. I just saw yesterday or the day before a Tak with the serial number in the 14xxxxx range but the IR mark was in the wrong spot ... I think the front ring must have been changed ... not worth going after and assuming it is an 8 element version.