Gear P0rn - post it if you got it.

DagT · 02-25-2016, 03:38 PM - **6 Likes**

Waiting for K-1

Nick Siebers · 02-25-2016, 03:47 PM

My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).

**arnold** · 02-25-2016, 04:35 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Nick Siebers

My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).

Maybe brushing on a little vinegar into the battery seam will dissolve the corrosion. Then try penetrating oil and or a hot air blower.

**Baard-Einar** · 02-28-2016, 04:13 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by DagT

Waiting for K-1

Ja takk :-)

Nice set of lenses.

sandbasser · 02-28-2016, 06:57 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Nick Siebers

My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version).

I don't know about the Spotmatic but I had a similar problem with an eBay MX. I just removed the entire bottom (only 3 tiny x-point screws). Then a soaking in some DeoxIt for a few minutes and the cap came right off. Your mileage may vary.

womble · 02-29-2016, 02:01 PM

Originally posted by DagT

Waiting for K-1

How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off!

Thanks, Kris.

DagT · 03-01-2016, 01:37 AM

Originally posted by womble

How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off!

Thanks, Kris.

I was lucky almost 15 years ago on a Norwegian market, and bought it for about $500. An honest seller realised that it was cheap after making the deal because he got beter offers, but on the other hand he knew who I was and preferred a safe sell.

The A*85 I actually bought new in the late 80s. A bit worn on the outside, but the optics is perfect.

DagT

Duplo · 03-03-2016, 09:11 AM - **1 Like**

Mycurrent restoration project, Lipco Flexora by the look of it, but from what I can see it is a Flexora folding hood part on a flexo body (?)
I have had it completely disassembled twice, but it will need to be disassembled almost completely again to get to the shutterblades of the Prontor shutter and see if I can fix the sticky issue and a few other dificulties with it, but that is one of the gorgeous things about these old mechanical beasts and old shutters, they are manageable to repair and clean even for someone like me

**Baard-Einar** · 03-09-2016, 06:37 AM - **4 Likes**

Hi all

A new arrival. A nice, very clean black Asahi Pentax K with the not so often seen black Auto-Takumar 55mm f1.8 made only for the black K. Early serial number as well, 159xxx

Also seen is the new guy toghether with anothe black K. This one with a very nice Auto-Takumar 35mm f.2.3 and the original hood.

Jean Poitiers · 03-09-2016, 06:59 AM - **1 Like**

Just arrived today ... "for fun" in that I already had a SMC Tak 67 75/4.5 and SMC Tak 67 90/2.8 LS.

It's been around the block ...no MLU here and the seller told me that there's a problem @ 1/1000 ... no exposure apparently.

It was 109€ delivered, so I will play around with this one and if I really get the "67 bug", I will save up for a nice 6x7 with MLU for the 90 LS ...

g026r · 03-09-2016, 07:11 PM - **1 Like**

Word of advice for your first roll: don't take anything on the 10th frame that you will particularly upset if it doesn't turn out.

One of the things that sometimes goes on these is the frame advance/spacing, so it's not unheard of for them to wind up with the final frame of a roll slightly cut off.

Jean Poitiers · 03-10-2016, 12:23 AM

Originally posted by g026r

Word of advice for your first roll: don't take anything on the 10th frame that you will particularly upset if it doesn't turn out.

One of the things that sometimes goes on these is the frame advance/spacing, so it's not unheard of for them to wind up with the final frame of a roll slightly cut off.

Merci ! I am running a test roll through it now.

I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ?

aurele · 03-10-2016, 06:04 AM

Originally posted by Jean Poitiers

Merci ! I am running a test roll through it now.

I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ?

never ! I never had the idea of trying something like that

Be carefull because remaining the curtain open really drain the batterie fast on the 67. When i mean fast, it's a couple of hour for a brand new batterie.

g026r · 03-10-2016, 07:03 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Jean Poitiers

I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ?

That's standard. You can technically use it as a makeshift T setting, though I've never tried.

Officially, you also use it in conjunction with the U/S switch on the 90/2.8LS. (Though the manual for that one suggests setting it between X and 1/1000.)

Jean Poitiers · 03-10-2016, 07:12 AM

Originally posted by g026r

That's standard. You can technically use it as a makeshift T setting, though I've never tried.

Officially, you also use it in conjunction with the U/S switch on the 90/2.8LS. (Though the manual for that one suggests setting it between X and 1/1000.)

Merci beaucoup !

Learn something new everyday ... Salut, J

03-10-2016, 12:23 AM	#3957
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	Originally posted by g026r Word of advice for your first roll: don't take anything on the 10th frame that you will particularly upset if it doesn't turn out. One of the things that sometimes goes on these is the frame advance/spacing, so it's not unheard of for them to wind up with the final frame of a roll slightly cut off. *Merci !* I am running a test roll through it now. I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ? Last edited by Jean Poitiers; 03-10-2016 at 12:29 AM.

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02-25-2016, 03:38 PM - 6 Likes	#3946
DagT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Oslo Posts: 110	Waiting for K-1

02-25-2016, 04:35 PM - 1 Like	#3948
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,294	Originally posted by Nick Siebers My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version). Maybe brushing on a little vinegar into the battery seam will dissolve the corrosion. Then try penetrating oil and or a hot air blower.

02-28-2016, 04:13 PM - 1 Like	#3949
Baard-Einar Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Oslo Photos: Gallery Posts: 964	Originally posted by DagT Waiting for K-1 Ja takk :-) Nice set of lenses.

02-28-2016, 06:57 PM - 1 Like	#3950
sandbasser Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Riverside, CA USA Posts: 143	Originally posted by Nick Siebers My latest find. The camera is, alas, DOA and like to stay that way, with corrosion oozing out of the battery compartment which cannot be opened. It looks nice form the front, though. And the lens, while mechanically sub-optimal (one ring too loose, one too tight), is quite nice (yes it is the older version). I don't know about the Spotmatic but I had a similar problem with an eBay MX. I just removed the entire bottom (only 3 tiny x-point screws). Then a soaking in some DeoxIt for a few minutes and the cap came right off. Your mileage may vary.

02-29-2016, 02:01 PM	#3951
womble Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hertfordshire Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,324	Originally posted by DagT Waiting for K-1 How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off! Thanks, Kris.

03-01-2016, 01:37 AM	#3952
DagT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Oslo Posts: 110	Originally posted by womble How do you find the A* 135mm? I'm fond of 135 as a focal length, and that lens intrigues me, but the price puts me off! Thanks, Kris. I was lucky almost 15 years ago on a Norwegian market, and bought it for about $500. An honest seller realised that it was cheap after making the deal because he got beter offers, but on the other hand he knew who I was and preferred a safe sell. The A*85 I actually bought new in the late 80s. A bit worn on the outside, but the optics is perfect. DagT

03-03-2016, 09:11 AM - 1 Like	#3953
Duplo Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Copenhagen Photos: Gallery Posts: 924	Mycurrent restoration project, Lipco Flexora by the look of it, but from what I can see it is a Flexora folding hood part on a flexo body (?) I have had it completely disassembled twice, but it will need to be disassembled almost completely again to get to the shutterblades of the Prontor shutter and see if I can fix the sticky issue and a few other dificulties with it, but that is one of the gorgeous things about these old mechanical beasts and old shutters, they are manageable to repair and clean even for someone like me

03-09-2016, 06:59 AM - 1 Like	#3955
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	Just arrived today ... "for fun" in that I already had a SMC Tak 67 75/4.5 and SMC Tak 67 90/2.8 LS. It's been around the block ...no MLU here and the seller told me that there's a problem @ 1/1000 ... no exposure apparently. It was 109€ delivered, so I will play around with this one and if I really get the "67 bug", I will save up for a nice 6x7 with MLU for the 90 LS ...

03-09-2016, 07:11 PM - 1 Like	#3956
g026r Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,074	Word of advice for your first roll: don't take anything on the 10th frame that you will particularly upset if it doesn't turn out. One of the things that sometimes goes on these is the frame advance/spacing, so it's not unheard of for them to wind up with the final frame of a roll slightly cut off.

03-10-2016, 06:04 AM	#3958
aurele Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Paris, France Photos: Albums Posts: 3,217	Originally posted by Jean Poitiers *Merci !* I am running a test roll through it now. I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ? never ! I never had the idea of trying something like that Be carefull because remaining the curtain open really drain the batterie fast on the 67. When i mean fast, it's a couple of hour for a brand new batterie.

03-10-2016, 07:03 AM - 1 Like	#3959
g026r Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,074	Originally posted by Jean Poitiers I also discovered something by hazard when checking visually the speeds, mirror movement, etc, without a lens attached. When I set the shutter speed dial between two settings - like a little more than half way between 1/250 and 1/500 (this was an accident while handling/testing) - the mirror will remain raised and the shutter curtail remains open, thus a default MLU ... anyone else experienced this ? That's standard. You can technically use it as a makeshift T setting, though I've never tried. Officially, you also use it in conjunction with the U/S switch on the 90/2.8LS. (Though the manual for that one suggests setting it between X and 1/1000.)

03-10-2016, 07:12 AM	#3960
Jean Poitiers Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Lost in translation ... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 18,076	Originally posted by g026r That's standard. You can technically use it as a makeshift T setting, though I've never tried. Officially, you also use it in conjunction with the U/S switch on the 90/2.8LS. (Though the manual for that one suggests setting it between X and 1/1000.) *Merci beaucoup !* Learn something new everyday ... *Salut*, J