[ChristianRock]

I recently got a P30T and I'm testing it out... at first I thought the shutter wasn't working but it was just stuck.

Now I'm running a test roll through it and it seems like the shutter will only cock every 2 frames. For example, if I'm at frame 8 and I press the shutter, it takes the pic and the winder only locks when I'm in frame 10. If I'm in frame 9 it's not locked and pressing the shutter doesn't do anything.
I just put another set of LR44s in it so I know it's not the batteries...

I'm testing it with a very old roll of slide film (expired 1991) before I put any good film through it. I'm glad I did that... it's Ektachrome 200 but I figure that old film has nothing to do with the winder/shutter, and I wanted to make sure those were working.

Any ideas? It's a very nice looking camera and I'd love to get it working!

[aoeu]

Bin it and get another. They are cheap. I like the P30T.

[ChristianRock]

Well if they fail so easily, maybe I don't want another...

The last 3 Pentax/Ricoh film cameras I've bought are dead... the only one that works was actually given to me by a friend (it's also newer, a ZX-M that's about 10 years old and was hardly even used). This P30T, the A3000 that died during the first roll of film. The Ricoh AF-2 that didn't work when I took a chance at a garage sale for 5 dollars...
I had a K1000 (MIJ too), sold it when I had just bought the A3000 and saw it was working well. Should have waited longer... I think I need an all mechanical Pentax again

Skipping frames like that still sounds like something that should be easy to fix, so I was hoping someone here would have had experience with that.

[ChristianRock]

Here they are, both probably going to go to the trash can... too sad, isn't it?

(obviously the 50 1.4 won't go to the bin )

Attached Images

 

[patrick9]

Here they are, both probably going to go to the trash can... too sad, isn't it?

It is a shame. I enjoy my "t It is the most used film camera I own. Even my ZX-L doesn't get as much use. Mine had a problem a few months ago too It turned out to be the roll of film. I shoot a bit of out of date film but this particular roll was still in date. The next roll was OOD since I didn't want risk a better roll. It worked fine. I guess the roll of film must have been the culprit. I am wondering if your's needs a good cleaning or if the roll may have been the problem.
Have you tried doing the cycle without film and the back open so as to see if you can see a problem? Or even with the back closed to see if you still have the problem.

[ChristianRock]

It is a shame. I enjoy my "t It is the most used film camera I own. Even my ZX-L doesn't get as much use. Mine had a problem a few months ago too It turned out to be the roll of film. I shoot a bit of out of date film but this particular roll was still in date. The next roll was OOD since I didn't want risk a better roll. It worked fine. I guess the roll of film must have been the culprit. I am wondering if your's needs a good cleaning or if the roll may have been the problem.
Have you tried doing the cycle without film and the back open so as to see if you can see a problem? Or even with the back closed to see if you still have the problem.

Well, it won't trigger at all if there's no film in the camera. Just like if the camera was dead. That's something I thought was odd, but I thought it was by design. So I put this old film in the camera, and at least it triggers now! But it does skip frames.

You think a cleaning might actually make a difference?

I'm using some cheap Sunbeam alkalines since I couldn't find my Maxwell lithiums - but the manual says I can't use lithiums anyway. The Sunbeams should be fine - they're working like a charm on my Minolta XG-M and I've already shot a few rolls of film through that camera with these same batteries, so I don't think they're the problem...

Now the Ricoh is just dead dead, which is also very sad because from what I saw, that lens is super-sharp and contrasty! Simple 4/3 Tessar design in rangefinder configuration.

[patrick9]

You might talk to Eric and see what he thinks I will look for his web address when I get back. I have to go pick up dinner

[ChrisPlatt]

Bin it and get another. They are cheap. I like the P30T.

I have had P30N and P30T bodies. Though mostly plastic they're pleasant to use,
and have some useful features not found on some more expensive Pentax bodies.

IMO due to their now low cost one can treat them almost as disposable cameras.

Chris

[weijen]

Hey, my P30T behaves exactly the same way too! I believe it's got something to do with the locking clutch or something not fully catching. You can open the bottom plate and see what's slipping. The film advance and shutter cocking is fully mechanical and can normally be seen from the bottom after removing the bottom cover.


I couldn't open the bottom cover of mine because the screws are so damn tight. So unfortunately I don't have the chance to see what went wrong. But anyway, I found out how to live with it»

1. It needs a warmup. Before you load a film, keep advancing and firing the shutter. You will notice the shutter cocking begins to catch more reliably without slipping. However, after a few hours of idle, it will start to slip again. Therefore, refer to tip #2..

2. Always keep the shutter cocked when not in use.

3. When working the film advance lever, pull it switfly (don't break it!) and release very, very slowly. You will hear a faint metalic click if the shutter does cock.

[ChristianRock]

Interesting, weijen! Problem is, do I want to risk burning film when I have a perfectly working Pentax ZX-M?
Now opening up the bottom to see what is skipping, seems like a good idea... if it can be fixed.

[aoeu]

I replaced the seals in my MX on the off chance I take a film class requiring a fully manual camera.
Pics taken with my ZX-L have been published.
My K2DMD is worth sending to Eric the next time I have no more pressing need of a Franklin.

P30Ts with their distinctive 45 degree focusing screens are basically free with any A lens you like.

[ChristianRock]

But they don't work for very long... if they work at all when you get them. That's why they're basically free.

Oh and today my ZX-M broke down. I wasn't expecting that - it's only about 12 years old and was bought new by a friend of mine, who shot maybe 5 rolls of film with it while he had it. I really need an all-mechanical camera... the Pentax electronic shutters seem to be worth nothing. My Minolta's electronic shutter is still working, thank God - so that's my only working film camera now.

[titrisol]

I got one a while ago, and I have banged it around... it doesn;t like to fail.
Maybe it just need exercise, as it may have been sitting for a long time.
I will test mine without film after this roll ends but I kinda recall it did fore without it..... maybe i'm wrong

[stevebrot]

But they don't work for very long... if they work at all when you get them. That's why they're basically free.

I find this statement a little puzzling. This is first I have heard of a generic durability issue with a P3 or P5 variant. The only vintage Pentax gear that I am aware of that have generic problems are the plastic gears in the MZ/ZX and the LX "sticky mirror".

Beyond that what you are seeing is the kind of thing you might expect from any camera of that vintage. My advice to people buying 80s-era electronic Japanese SLRs:

• Avoid AF or auto film advance models
• If the camera is clean and works at all*, it is likely fully functional and will provide a reasonable service life
• Almost all will require new seals
• DX only ASA(ISO) film speed setting is to be avoided
• Very few electronic SLRs of that era are worth a premium price (over $100 USD)

Steve

* Definition: Meter, shutter, lens aperture coupling, and film advance all work.

[ChrisPlatt]

FWIW Eric thinks more highly of the P-series cameras than the "plastic Pentax" MZ/ZX cameras.

Chris