A few questions about the p3n and how to improve my lenses aperture ring

JordiTrenzano · 09-01-2015, 12:48 PM

Hi people

I've just picked up a couple of p3n bodies, both of them seem to be working really nice but I have a question regarding the films I can or can't use.

As the ISO the camera uses is the DX coding from the film, the camera specs mention that only film up to 1600 asa can be used. ¿What happens if I want to use 3200 film? I know I can use a digital camera as a light meter, but is there anyway I can trick the p3n to make it work at 3200?

Also, I have a 50mm 1.7 lens that used to work really well, but after living overseas for a while now the aperture ring is really rough, I have to apply quite a bit of strength to make it change the aperture. Is there any way I can fix it? Oil or any other lubricant?

Thanks in advance

Dipsoid · 09-01-2015, 01:21 PM

Does the p3n have exposure compensation? That would be the way to trick it. If not, you're going to have to do the math in your head.

**gofour3** · 09-01-2015, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by JordiTrenzano

Hi people

I've just picked up a couple of p3n bodies, both of them seem to be working really nice but I have a question regarding the films I can or can't use.

As the ISO the camera uses is the DX coding from the film, the camera specs mention that only film up to 1600 asa can be used. ¿What happens if I want to use 3200 film? I know I can use a digital camera as a light meter, but is there anyway I can trick the p3n to make it work at 3200?

Also, I have a 50mm 1.7 lens that used to work really well, but after living overseas for a while now the aperture ring is really rough, I have to apply quite a bit of strength to make it change the aperture. Is there any way I can fix it? Oil or any other lubricant?

Thanks in advance

Unfortunately all the "P" Series cameras have DX coding, but no manual ISO override. This means you can't push/pull any film or use non DX coded film, unless it is 100 ISO which is the default for non DX film.

The P3/30's also do not have exposure compensations, so that rules out that as a option.

As for the 50/1.7 I'm assuming it's the "A" Series? if so that is a known problem with this lens and yes you can get it fixed but it's a design flaw so it could happen again.

Phil.

roglin · 09-01-2015, 04:17 PM

Jordi Hi!

I also have a couple P3N, or P30n as they are called here. Really nice (undervalued) cameras with easy to use controls, and the exposure is really great.

I know it is said that it is not possible to use the "push" and "pull" with these cameras. I do not really agree with that.
It ought to be possible to consistently over- or under-expose all the pictures on a roll, to achieve this. I have never used this technique myself, but it should work. And it's simple too; In manual mode, adjusts the aperture and shutter speed for proper exposure. Then I think it seems easier to change the shutter speed to over- or underexpose.

The difficulty is probably remember this for later photo sessions (if you do not shoot the entire roll at the same time, of course). A note on a sticker on the back camera would be handy.

Do not know how the camera responds with a DX-coded ISO3200 roll of film. Probably sets itself in ISO100. To achieve ISO3200 from 100 would be underexpose 5 steps, not very praktical. It is clearly better to use DX ISO1600 film and underexpose one step.

Good luck!
/ Roger Lindholm

**ChrisPlatt** · 09-01-2015, 04:46 PM

Not terribly limiting IMO. Simply use ISO 1600 speed film or slower.
The true film speed of 3200 rated films is below 1600, anyway.

Chris

pathdoc · 09-01-2015, 05:40 PM

If you happen to have a whole lot of 3200 film, I'm afraid you're stuck, as others have already said.

As for the aperture ring, if it's a Pentax-A lens it might be best to turn it to the A setting (if you still can) and leave it there. Yes, you will be stuck in program mode, but at least you can still use the lens. I would then go about finding another one on the Marketplace here.

If I'm right and the P3N is the same basic camera as my P30T, you don't actually lose much by getting K or M series lenses (or their non Pentax equivalents) rather than A - you lose full auto program mode, but you should still have aperture priority, which isn't much worse and may even be preferable for some.

In fact, they will function (meter and fire) with every Pentax lens right up to the DA series, though of course they will vignette with most DA zooms and some primes and also default to full program mode with any lens that doesn't have an aperture ring.

**UncleVanya** · 09-01-2015, 09:27 PM

Based on what I read here https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DX_coding

ISO 1600 is represented by all but positions two and six bring conductive and 3200 is represented by all but position six being conductive.

So if you block with paint or very thin tape the second position on the 3200 ISO DX coded film you will get the camera to view that as ISO 1600. Either shoot as is one stop over exposed or remember to add a one stop adjustment to each shot.

Another more complex option would be to reload the film into 1600 coded canisters but I have no idea if that is easily done these days. Lastly you could make uncoded canisters look like DX 1600 coded by using aluminum duct tape and s hobby knife.

---------- Post added 09-02-15 at 12:37 AM ----------

Also check instructables. They have a guide to making DX coded labels.

Or this. Firstcall DX Recoder Labels, ISO 200

Wrong ones... These! http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/750/firstcall-dx-recoder-labels-iso-1600

Last edited by UncleVanya; 09-01-2015 at 09:41 PM.

09-01-2015, 12:48 PM	#1
JordiTrenzano New Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Posts: 3	A few questions about the p3n and how to improve my lenses aperture ring Hi people I've just picked up a couple of p3n bodies, both of them seem to be working really nice but I have a question regarding the films I can or can't use. As the ISO the camera uses is the DX coding from the film, the camera specs mention that only film up to 1600 asa can be used. ¿What happens if I want to use 3200 film? I know I can use a digital camera as a light meter, but is there anyway I can trick the p3n to make it work at 3200? Also, I have a 50mm 1.7 lens that used to work really well, but after living overseas for a while now the aperture ring is really rough, I have to apply quite a bit of strength to make it change the aperture. Is there any way I can fix it? Oil or any other lubricant? Thanks in advance

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09-01-2015, 01:21 PM	#2
Dipsoid Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Posts: 241	Does the p3n have exposure compensation? That would be the way to trick it. If not, you're going to have to do the math in your head.

09-01-2015, 01:36 PM	#3
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by JordiTrenzano Hi people I've just picked up a couple of p3n bodies, both of them seem to be working really nice but I have a question regarding the films I can or can't use. As the ISO the camera uses is the DX coding from the film, the camera specs mention that only film up to 1600 asa can be used. ¿What happens if I want to use 3200 film? I know I can use a digital camera as a light meter, but is there anyway I can trick the p3n to make it work at 3200? Also, I have a 50mm 1.7 lens that used to work really well, but after living overseas for a while now the aperture ring is really rough, I have to apply quite a bit of strength to make it change the aperture. Is there any way I can fix it? Oil or any other lubricant? Thanks in advance Unfortunately all the "P" Series cameras have DX coding, but no manual ISO override. This means you can't push/pull any film or use non DX coded film, unless it is 100 ISO which is the default for non DX film. The P3/30's also do not have exposure compensations, so that rules out that as a option. As for the 50/1.7 I'm assuming it's the "A" Series? if so that is a known problem with this lens and yes you can get it fixed but it's a design flaw so it could happen again. Phil.

09-01-2015, 04:17 PM	#4
roglin New Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Vetlanda Posts: 5	Jordi Hi! I also have a couple P3N, or P30n as they are called here. Really nice (undervalued) cameras with easy to use controls, and the exposure is really great. I know it is said that it is not possible to use the "push" and "pull" with these cameras. I do not really agree with that. It ought to be possible to consistently over- or under-expose all the pictures on a roll, to achieve this. I have never used this technique myself, but it should work. And it's simple too; In manual mode, adjusts the aperture and shutter speed for proper exposure. Then I think it seems easier to change the shutter speed to over- or underexpose. The difficulty is probably remember this for later photo sessions (if you do not shoot the entire roll at the same time, of course). A note on a sticker on the back camera would be handy. Do not know how the camera responds with a DX-coded ISO3200 roll of film. Probably sets itself in ISO100. To achieve ISO3200 from 100 would be underexpose 5 steps, not very praktical. It is clearly better to use DX ISO1600 film and underexpose one step. Good luck! / Roger Lindholm

09-01-2015, 04:46 PM	#5
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,694	Not terribly limiting IMO. Simply use ISO 1600 speed film or slower. The true film speed of 3200 rated films is below 1600, anyway. Chris

09-01-2015, 05:40 PM	#6
pathdoc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,381	If you happen to have a whole lot of 3200 film, I'm afraid you're stuck, as others have already said. As for the aperture ring, if it's a Pentax-A lens it might be best to turn it to the A setting (if you still can) and leave it there. Yes, you will be stuck in program mode, but at least you can still use the lens. I would then go about finding another one on the Marketplace here. If I'm right and the P3N is the same basic camera as my P30T, you don't actually lose much by getting K or M series lenses (or their non Pentax equivalents) rather than A - you lose full auto program mode, but you should still have aperture priority, which isn't much worse and may even be preferable for some. In fact, they will function (meter and fire) with every Pentax lens right up to the DA series, though of course they will vignette with most DA zooms and some primes and also default to full program mode with any lens that doesn't have an aperture ring.

09-01-2015, 09:27 PM	#7
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,402	Based on what I read here https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/DX_coding ISO 1600 is represented by all but positions two and six bring conductive and 3200 is represented by all but position six being conductive. So if you block with paint or very thin tape the second position on the 3200 ISO DX coded film you will get the camera to view that as ISO 1600. Either shoot as is one stop over exposed or remember to add a one stop adjustment to each shot. Another more complex option would be to reload the film into 1600 coded canisters but I have no idea if that is easily done these days. Lastly you could make uncoded canisters look like DX 1600 coded by using aluminum duct tape and s hobby knife. ---------- Post added 09-02-15 at 12:37 AM ---------- Also check instructables. They have a guide to making DX coded labels. Or this. Firstcall DX Recoder Labels, ISO 200 Wrong ones... These! http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/750/firstcall-dx-recoder-labels-iso-1600 Last edited by UncleVanya; 09-01-2015 at 09:41 PM.