[kb244]

I didn't have time to wet print today, too busy with students the digital lab, but I did develop the second roll using the sprint chemistry (1:9, 10 minutes, 68F/20C, 15 second first agitation, then one inversion every minute after). Just stuck it on the flatbed in the sleeve and just did a quick scan of it.





The notes I took as I shot each frame (also noticed that I wound one too many and started on '1', instead of '0', so there's 35 frames)

Frame 1 : 1/125 f/2.2 50mm
Meter shows green in center of frame
Prints on the wall.
Focus using split on edge of print on Wall.


Frame 2 : same but with 85mm


Frame 3 : same as 2, portrait orientation, focus split prism on edge of flower and bowl prints.


Frame 4&5 (50mm): 1/250 f/1.4 meter shows half a stop over (1/124 would be half under)
Focus on edge of ruler. First one by microprism, second by split and micro really close.


Frame 6 and 7
1/125 & 1.4
1/60 & 2.2
Meter green on both checker shots.
Split focus on #5 on right edge of circle
Microprism focus on neon sign towards left of word got #6


Frame 8 - 16 (50mm f/1.4)
Focus on second thumbtack at the metal pin, via horizontal split prism
Incident Meter Reading 1/1,000 @ f/1.4 for ISO 400, shooting +1 over.


Frame 8: 1/500th @ f/1.4
Frame 9: 1/250th @ f/2
Frame 10: 1/125 @ f/2.8
Frame 11: 1/60 @ f/4
Frame 12: 1/30 @ f/5.6
Frame 13: 1/15 @ f/8
Frame 14: 1/8 @ f/11
Frame 15: 1/4 @ f/16
Frame 16: 1/2 @ f/22


Frame 17: (90mm f/2.8 Macro 1:1)
1/500 @ f/2.8 (incident metered to the same)
Focus on center thumbtack with split right on the metal barrel/shaft.


Frame 18 : 1/500 f/2.8 (closer crop, focus approx 0.305 meter)
Frame 19: 1/1,000 f/2.8
Frame 20: 1/250 f/2.8


Focus on closest strip of paper towards lens. Focus approx 0.33m
Frame 21: 1/250 f/2.8 (incident meter reads 10EV + 2/3, so barely 1/3 under, reflective shows 1/2 under light)


Focus on grid directly behind all paper strips, 0.34m
Frame 22: 1/250 f/2.8 (reflective shows green)


Focus on closest strip of paper towards lens on top of wood
TTL Meter shows green for 1/250 @ f/8
Frame 23 : 1/250 f/8
Frame 24 : 1/125 f/8 (+1 over previous, shows +1/2 over on LED)


Focus on wood grain (Incident shows 1/250 @ f/5.6 , EV13)
*almost* 1:1 life-size, reflective shows -1 (red) LED for 1/125 @ f/8
Focusing attempt was primarily between the matte and micro prism ring. Split was getting difficult to eyeball exactly.


Frame 25: 1/125 f/8
Frame 26: 1/125 f/5.6
Frame 27: 1/125 f/4


*Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 from this point*


Frame 28:
Incident meter shows 9-2/3~ 10EV (1/500, f/1.4)
Reflective says +1 stop over (top red LED)
1/500 f/1.4
Focus via micro prism ring on the chrome trim in the middle of the Pentax-50/1.4 lens.


Frame 29: 1/500 f/4 (Same as above, but with green Reflective LED, which brings it to exposed for the background)


Frame 30: Selfie attempt with timer
1/125 @ f/2.8, pre-focused on ledge of window still, then re-composed.


Frame 31: Drawings on hallway, Focus on left edge of the 4th drawing on the bottom row. Roughly split and micro prism seem to match on the vertical.
1/125 @ f/2.8
Reflective meter was put at +1/2 overexposed at the area of the drawings, when recomposing with the shadow area in the center of the frame, meter showed green LED.




Frame 33: 1/250 f/1.4 (meter green at center)


Frame 34: 1/125 2.2 (meter green on brown top portion)


Frame 35:
Focus on second hanging light closest to lens
1/125 2.2
Set meter to show red (-1) on a black painted podium/stand.

[pathdoc]

I quite often stop at #35 deliberately - among other things, the negative sleeves I bought to store my home-cooked B&W negs in are designed to take seven strips of five (though in fairness, 6x6 would be awkward for most folders). Thirty-six shots (or the rare film that I manage to milk 37 out of) can actually be a pain in the neck!!

[kb244]

I quite often stop at #35 deliberately - among other things, the negative sleeves I bought to store my home-cooked B&W negs in are designed to take seven strips of five (though in fairness, 6x6 would be awkward for most folders). Thirty-six shots (or the rare film that I manage to milk 37 out of) can actually be a pain in the neck!!

Yea I've actually thought about that too, cuz while the sleeves we have available to us on campus are good for 6 frame widths, I've had some in the past that only took 4 or 5 (the foldable kinds you might pick up from print labs in the past). Plus doing 5 across would fit easier inside of an 8x10 contact sheet (though might extend more the height, but you could at least get every frame on the sheet even if the edges of the outermost frames get cut off).

The way the MX's takeup spool works, seems like I could easily start earlier and ensure I get at least 35~36, whereas some of my other cameras, usually a single slit take up spool, and not as taut as the MX I tend to go that one extra wind just to make sure it has it caught.

I noticed when I hit frame 36, the little box next to the shutter button shows red, I hadn't noticed that before, kind of a cool visual aid to say "Hey! last frame".

[kb244]

Some scans from this.






For this third one, in photoshop, if you were to add a hue/sat or flat color blended layer, and double click the layer under "Blend if...", you can drag the black slider down to around 124, then hold alt and drag the left half of it back down towards 10. What will happen is that color will only show when the image's luminosity is above that range (in this case the highlights which in reality are bright red lights), the alt+click makes the transition smoother rather than just clipping right off when it hits a certain threshold, then you do another, but for the white pointer, kind of one non-destructive way to do split toning digitally.

[Alex645]

Itʻs nice to see the difference between the Tri-X and the HP5+, but also with either the same developer. Hard to tell where the difference is due to Microphen/Sprint vs. the two emulsions. What do you think?

[kb244]

I don't have anything uploaded showing hp5+ in microphen, but I do have this album of hp5+ in sprint the way class instructs the agitation.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Also that was the only trix I have and didn't try trix in sprint.

[wombat2go]

Thanks for you post, I enjoyed seeing those.

These are HP5+ in home brew Microphen, taken 2013 with the Pentax MX and i forgot the lenses.

https://app.box.com/s/03b4455c492e5f2f93ca
https://app.box.com/s/498c8e89a503a36ff456

Here is my only attempt at "colorizing" a bw photo (the above Menlo lab) in the gimp.
https://app.box.com/s/f34sxudfnj4bjl964vcp

A lot has changed and comparison is difficult.
Here is an FP4, home developed in the Iford solutions of that time, taken about 35 years ago,
either with the Pentax ME Super or an Olympus OM?
https://app.box.com/s/j19k7qbrze9yhoduf6cvju7akwbbur52
I have quite a few of FP4, and I wonder if the old film is better, maybe a bit softer and less granular?

Edit, sorry I thought FP4 was obsolete, but I just see on Ilford, that FP4+ is available, ISO125 fine grain. Maybe I will try some again!

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Last edited by wombat2go; 03-04-2017 at 09:44 PM.

[kb244]

A shot of the camera itself.



I'm thinking bout trying a roll of either Kentmere 100 or 400 (I have both), Kentmere is made by the same company that makes Ilford, however they are not the same emulsion as FP4+/HP5+, but rather something brand new they created to make it more economical to produce.