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03-17-2017, 09:29 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
I have LightMeter Free for Android on my phone, never used it so I keep forgetting it's there. I do use a Sekonic Auto-Leader, dunno what kind of battery's in it but it seems to work with results corresponding to sunny 16 fairly consistently. It is pretty useless in low light though.The circuitry has gone a bit wonky and sometimes I have to bang it on my hand to wake it up.
Selenium meter probably? (if it's always on, it probably is, in which case there's no battery, just the decaying cells).

Edit: yea probably if it's a similar model to this. http://www.butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/sekonic_l-38/sekonic.htm

03-17-2017, 10:14 AM   #17
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When I shoot film I usually have another digital camera with me that I can use to meter but I just installed this light meter app to try. I actually paid the $2 for the ad-free version. Even if I don't like the app like to support these independent developers trying to make useful apps for a reasonable price!
LightMeter Free - Android Apps on Google Play
03-17-2017, 10:33 AM   #18
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By the way, you know that for the apps to work best you need to actually diffuse the light hitting the camera (usually sold as a separate attachment).

The reflected option if it exist seems to be no different than what you would calculate off of your digital camera

QuoteQuote:
LightMeter's reflected light meter only works with devices that are able to save exif data. Incident light meter should work on any device, but it is usually insufficient for real photographers.
Since I'm guessing it's getting an EV from shutter/aperture/iso and figuring that to be 'properly' exposed.

I like how they say incident metering is usually insufficient for "real photographers". I mean if they want to put it that way, "real" photographers use a real meter (be it in-camera or handheld), or read the histogram. Sometimes I really want to know what the light falling on my subject is, and capture it as that rather than what the subject is reflecting (normally artwork and the likes).
03-17-2017, 10:46 AM   #19
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Light Meter Free has nailed the exposure perfectly every time for me in both incident and reflected readings using my Samsung Galaxy S6. I set the exposures manually on my Canon 5D3 in various conditions and then checked the histogram and it's always perfect.

03-17-2017, 10:48 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by kb244 Quote
Selenium meter
CdS, better than selenium, not great.
03-18-2017, 05:38 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
CdS, better than selenium, not great.
WestonII invercone (incident dome) on brides nose was ok for Kodachrome 25...
but they are only light meters the exposure meter is between your ears?
03-18-2017, 05:41 AM   #22
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I've used David Quiles's free app for my S1a for some shots, on a Samsung Galaxy S5; it got me close enough on B&W that exposure was not the issue when I developed the film myself.

The cellphone/platform you use matters a LOT.

03-18-2017, 05:50 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Xmas Quote
they are only light meters the exposure meter is between your ears?
The one between my ears has even more bad circuits.
03-18-2017, 03:09 PM   #24
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I just got a Gossen Scout 3 selenium exposure meter, $9.95 shipped on eBay.
Used judiciously it is accurate enough in nearly any light I would shoot in.
I prefer my cameras built-in exposure meter, but in case my batteries die...

Chris
03-19-2017, 03:43 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
I just got a Gossen Scout 3 selenium exposure meter, $9.95 shipped on eBay.
Used judiciously it is accurate enough in nearly any light I would shoot in.
I prefer my cameras built-in exposure meter, but in case my batteries die...

Chris
What camera are you shooting with, just out of interest? For Pentax, your implication that you can shoot independent of battery death suggests an MX or possibly an LX (handheld speeds) at the latest.
03-19-2017, 09:03 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by pathdoc Quote
What camera are you shooting with, just out of interest? For Pentax, your implication that you can shoot independent of battery death suggests an MX or possibly an LX (handheld speeds) at the latest.

I prefer mechanical cameras that require batteries solely for a built-in light meter.

Favorites I currently own and use are Pentax KX, Pentax KM and SP1000 models.
I also enjoy my Nikon F2 Photomic 35mm SLR and CV Bessa R 35mm RF cameras.

I'm not real fond of my Pentax MX; the viewfinder and controls are too crowded.
It's my only motorized body; I use it on occasion, only when I need the Winder MX.

I sold my Pentax LX. It was frankly overkill for me; I prefer a simpler camera.

Chris
03-19-2017, 11:47 AM   #27
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Most of my film shooters are the same. I have a P3 and a P30T that are, respectively, an heirloom (my wife's late father; she will never let me get rid of it, and 'twere pity on my life if I try) and something I initially bought to replace that heirloom when I thought it had failed (but all it did was start me on the path of camera body buying addiction), and a Super Program that I bought to see what the fuss was all about (not much; I scarcely use it). The P30T and possibly the Super Program will one day be my children's training cameras if they get interested in film.

The rest of my film bodies I'm pretty sure will shoot without batteries (bar the ME, which will still shoot at 1/100 when all else is lost), although the Spotmatic F is a special case; I bought that one to shoot with open-aperture on-board metering, seeing as most of my Takumar lenses were appropriately equipped, so I also bought an LR44-PX625 battery housing adapter for it and I will make the appropriate changes to ISO settings or development if I ever find myself completely dependent on the smaller batteries.

Quite aside from the phone, I also have a battery-free Sekonic and I know how to use it.
03-19-2017, 11:55 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
I just got a Gossen Scout 3 selenium exposure meter, $9.95 shipped on eBay.
Used judiciously it is accurate enough in nearly any light I would shoot in.
I prefer my cameras built-in exposure meter, but in case my batteries die...

Chris
Selenium meters often get a bad rap, but the better models, like your Scout 3 continue to work just fine. What they lack compared to CdS or SPD is low light sensitivity and responsiveness. In practice, those lower EVs are seldom usable for hand-held shooting, so all is good


Steve
03-19-2017, 03:55 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Selenium meters often get a bad rap, but the better models, like your Scout 3 continue to work just fine. What they lack compared to CdS or SPD is low light sensitivity and responsiveness. In practice, those lower EVs are seldom usable for hand-held shooting, so all is good


Steve
The Selenium meter built into my Canon 7 is still going strong and is accurate even in lower light when compared to the reflective metering of my Digisix or my digital. (being spot on is nice, but even if it was within half a stop that'd be plenty for B&W with the rangefinder).

The only bad rap I heard bout them in the past is just that they're more likely to be dead or dying by now considering the age of the ones we're keeping around.
03-19-2017, 04:28 PM   #30
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Neither the new Gossen nor my old Sekonic selenium cell meters are very responsive in low light.
I avoid using non hand-holdable speeds so there will be no problem, as stevebrot mentioned.
In middle and higher light levels (i.e. normal daylight) both are accurate and quite responsive.

They do read an area wider than my handheld CdS meters or my cameras built-in exposure meters.
Simply pointing them down a bit (to meter less bright sky) or getting in closer to meter solves that.

Chris
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