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10-07-2018, 07:14 PM - 1 Like   #16
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Coming back a little late to this discussion due to some sort of network issue accessing Pentax Forums, I think it would be good to reinforce that the shutter on the SV is not as complicated as those on later models (even the Spotmatic) and should be readily serviceable by most technicians having experience with horizontal run fabric shutters. From your description, the shutter is fully "capped" meaning that the release timing and/or run speeds are wrong for the two curtains. This is usually a matter of adjustment and would fall within the scope of a normal CLA.


Steve

10-08-2018, 05:58 PM - 1 Like   #17
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Great, many thanks to everyone for their contributions.

Tripod screw - the manual says a max 4.5mm depth. My tripod screw is 4.5mm and so the jury is still out on that one but definitely worth a consideration seeing that it was working just fine until it was attached the tripod.
I've now arranged for this to go a local tech who also feels that a repair is probably achievable, and then, assuming all goes well, a full service.

But as others have suggested, this sort of issue is just going to get harder as repair guys retire and parts harder to find. There is Sover in the UK, specializes in the Nikon F2, who has just begun running training workshops. A great idea which will hopefully expand the skill base for that particular camera but for rest of us using other marques it could be a struggle.


Jon
10-09-2018, 04:55 AM   #18
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Thanks I need to measure my tripods screws now as my SV and S1a are current users!
03-14-2024, 01:20 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
The mirror bumper on the SV is behind the deep baffle at the front of the mirror box and consists of two short strips of foam on either side that are not real obvious. Placement is difficult due to the location. Jon Goodman may well have a kit for the SV,* but I would expect that there is a trick to replacing the mirror foams that may require partial disassembly.

As for Eric, he did the seals on my SV and I was pleased to see that the door seals were done with black twine rather than foam. That approach is so very old-school and indicative of the quality of his work.


Steve

* Yes, Jon is still making kits and selling via e-mail referral only. As noted above, his kits are the best. His email is still JGood21967@aol.com (as of Summer 2018) and his prices were still $10 USD, shipping
included.
Do you have any idea what the "partial disassembly" to change the mirror damper involves?

---------- Post added 03-14-24 at 01:23 PM ----------

Does anybody have any tips, advice or guidance for replacing the mirror bumper foams on the SV? It's been suggested to me that I need to remove the front plate, then remove the light baffle, to get good access to the area where the foam is.

03-15-2024, 04:12 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Marsland Quote
Do you have any idea what the "partial disassembly" to change the mirror damper involves?

---------- Post added 03-14-24 at 01:23 PM ----------

Does anybody have any tips, advice or guidance for replacing the mirror bumper foams on the SV? It's been suggested to me that I need to remove the front plate, then remove the light baffle, to get good access to the area where the foam is.
That is the approach I take. Remove the front plate carefully, there could be shims underneath located at the screw holes. The shims are not necessarily the same thickness at each hole, so keep them in order.

I usually just scrape the old glue off with an Xacto knife, some people use alcohol or such. Either way avoid touching the focusing screen or getting solvent on it.
03-16-2024, 12:03 AM   #21
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Thank you for this. It confirms what I have been told elsewhere.
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