Originally posted by Eikoor I’m looking at getting a Spotmatic and was wondering what the difference between the models are (ie. SP, SP II & SV etc).
With buying pre-loved SLR cameras what should I be looking out for? I’ve heard the foam often needs to be replaced - what exactly is the foam and how can you tell when it needs replacing?
Are there any tests I can do to check everything is functional & accurate?
Welcome to the Pentax forum! Sorry but you'll have to wait for other posters to get more details on the many Spotmatic variations. Or you can read the description differences on this link:
Pentax M42 Screwmount Film SLRs - Pentax Pentax Film Cameras - Pentax Camera Reviews and Specifications
Personally, I would recommend the next gen that followed the screw mount lenses with a bayonet K mount such as the KM, KX, K2, or K1000.
Pentax Manual Focus Film SLRs - Pentax Pentax Film Cameras - Pentax Camera Reviews and Specifications
The foam is typically found both behind the lens mount above the mirror where it cushions the mirror slapping up during a shot to reduce internal vibrations, as well as in the back film chamber to help seal the camera back to make it light proof. Over time, the foam deteriorates and needs replacing. For the film chamber in the back, this is now more commonly done with a black felt-like material.
The only absolute way of knowing the effectiveness of the foam/felt seals is to shoot a roll of film (B&W or color negs) and then inspect the negatives for anomalies of dark areas where you'd expect clear film like by the sprocket holes.
There are many things to check for on both the lens and the camera to assure it is all in good working condition and nothing will beat either experience or a good return policy. However, if you are totally on your own here's my summary:
a) Lens: When shining a flashlight thru it, is it clean and clear, or are there specs or mold or fungus inside? Does the focus and aperture rings move freely? If the camera has a depth-of-field preview button/lever, does the viewfinder get darker as you go from f/2 to f/16? If there is no d-o-f button/lever, then looking into the front of the lens without fiim in the camera and the lens set to f/16, set the shutter speed to 1". Press the shutter release button and does the aperture close down to a small opening? Does it get larger at f/11, and then f/8, f/5.6, and f/4?
b) Camera: With a fresh battery, does the light meter work? Is the battery compartment clean and not corroded? After ensuring the film advance lever is cocked, does the shutter fire after depressing the shutter release button? With the lens off and no film in the camera, pointing into a white wall or bright sky, does each shutter speed seem to change from 1 second thru 1/1000"? Does the focal plane shutter seem clean and not damaged? Look at both the first curtain (with the back open before taking a shot) and the second curtain (after taking a shot). Does the film advance lever not only return the two curtains when cocked but also turn the sprocket teeth spindle? When pushing the rewind button on the bottom of the camera, does the sprocket teeth spindle freely move? Does the camera back close and open easily? Is the viewfinder relatively clean without any inky black areas? There's more, like testing with an external flash, but I think this already a good start.
The ultimate answer will be shooting a roll of film in good daylight and bracketing. For example, with a roll of any 100 ISO film on a sunny day, shoot cars moving perpendicular to the camera at f/5.6 @ 1/1000", f/8 @ 1/500", f/11 @ 1/250", f/16 @ 1/125", f/22 @ 1/60". Each car should be progressively more blurred.
Or find any scene in full sun and shoot it at f/16 @ 1/125" (or whatever your light meter reads as a normal exposure). Then shoot the same thing at every f/stop while leaving the shutter speed at 1/125". Then shoot the same thing at every shutter speed while leaving the aperture at f/16. After developing or getting the film developed, the first shot should look like a medium value while each change of either aperture or shutter speed makes the negative either darker or lighter.
Take notes on what you're doing so you can then figure out (or we can help you figure out) what may be wrong when the results are not what I've explained.