[tonyzoc]

I picked up a K2DMD with motor MD, battery grip M, batter pack M and charger pack M... The battery pack M was beyond rebuilding. It had heavy corrosion and the on/off switch contacts were destroyed. The Grip M works, but I'd like to get the NiCd battery. So I picked up a battery pack LX that I assume will need rebuilding and I have a set of NiMH batteries coming to rebuild with... My problem is the Charger Pack M us a 220v input. My options are, as I see it, get a step-ups 110v to 220v converter, or get a 110v to 18v DC output adapter and splice the line. I'd prefer not to butcher the battery pack M so what wattage adapter might I need? Is 70 watts enough? I can find those for $10...the higher the wattage to more they cost.

[tonyzoc]

I picked up a K2DMD with motor MD, battery grip M, batter pack M and charger pack M... The battery pack M was beyond rebuilding. It had heavy corrosion and the on/off switch contacts were destroyed. The Grip M works, but I'd like to get the NiCd battery. So I picked up a battery pack LX that I assume will need rebuilding and I have a set of NiMH batteries coming to rebuild with... My problem is the Charger Pack M us a 220v input. My options are, as I see it, get a step-ups 110v to 220v converter, or get a 110v to 18v DC output adapter and splice the line. I'd prefer not to butcher the battery pack M so what wattage adapter might I need? Is 70 watts enough? I can find those for $10...the higher the wattage to more they cost.

Of course, I get my batteries in the mail today and they're mislabeled as 1/3 AA but actually 1/2 AA. 1/3AA are 17.5mm and 1/2AA are 25mm.

[Robot camera]

I'd be happier getting a step up transformer/converter, as there might be a difference between the nominal voltage of the DC output, and the charging voltage, and there might also be circuitry that varies the charge. But the charger Pack M most likely has a plate with its input and output wattage, (or maybe input and output current and you can work it out) and a step up transformer just needs to have a slightly higher capacity than that, to account for the few percent of losses all electrical/electronic devices have.

[TwoUptons]

Of course, I get my batteries in the mail today and they're mislabeled as 1/3 AA but actually 1/2 AA. 1/3AA are 17.5mm and 1/2AA are 25mm.

What's the nominal wattage on most travel adapters?

Mine says 6.3A in at 100-250V and has a 6.3A fuse...
120V at 6.3A gets you to 70W, but I'm not sure what really happens in there, efficiency-wise...
I'm sure 110V in at 6.3A doesn't get you 70W of 220V, though I've never used it for 220V out... only in...

-Eric

[tonyzoc]

I'd be happier getting a step up transformer/converter, as there might be a difference between the nominal voltage of the DC output, and the charging voltage, and there might also be circuitry that varies the charge. But the charger Pack M most likely has a plate with its input and output wattage, (or maybe input and output current and you can work it out) and a step up transformer just needs to have a slightly higher capacity than that, to account for the few percent of losses all electrical/electronic devices have.

Yes, that's how I know it's 220v AC input. When I plugged it in the light never light up so I thought it was dead. Then I tested the output and I was getting 6v DC...that's when I noticed the plate said 220v input. I actually have a charger pack M with 110v input. When I sold my Motor M and NiCd battery I couldn't find the charger so I didn't include it. Recently...maybe 2 months ago, I came across it...but I've lost it again. It's somewhere in my house though...lol. If I get my battery purchase straightened out, I'm going to pick up a 110 to 220 adapter...I might spend a little extra for higher wattage.



---------- Post added 04-28-21 at 05:29 PM ----------

What's the nominal wattage on most travel adapters?

Mine says 6.3A in at 100-250V and has a 6.3A fuse...
120V at 6.3A gets you to 70W, but I'm not sure what really happens in there, efficiency-wise...
I'm sure 110V in at 6.3A doesn't get you 70W of 220V, though I've never used it for 220V out... only in...

-Eric

So to calc wattage it's V x Amps... Is it the output V or input V... 220x2.5=550 or 18x2.5= 45...

---------- Post added 04-28-21 at 05:48 PM ----------

My electronics knowledge is not great...I took Physics but it's was 30 years ago. If the original NiCds were 240mah 1/3AA x 12...is the amperage still 240mah for the assembled battery? I found an Excel battery with tabs that's 3.6v AA size...basically 3x1/3AA 300mah NiMH pre-soldered and shrink wrapped. This would work in a LX and I'd only need 4. About $30 or so and less work. For a battery pack M, the batteries are configured with two 2 x 1/3AA and two 4 x 1/3AA so you need the 1/3AAs to build it. I'm getting an LX NiCd next week.

[TwoUptons]

Ha. Whoops... dropped a 0... I don't think I'd trust it for 700W of anything, but it does run the laptop and charge the phone (slowly) at the same time, so I guess it must do more than 70W...

-Eric

[tonyzoc]

I was looking for my Charger Pack M today, and while I didn't find it, I did find my Data MX back. It's missing the optional cable and Watch insert. I used to carry the watch insert like a pocket watch and lost it somewhere. I also found 2 rolls of Lucky brand 120 B&W film...expired in 2007. I'll still try shooting it.

[Baard-Einar]

I was looking for my Charger Pack M today, and while I didn't find it, I did find my Data MX back. It's missing the optional cable and Watch insert. I used to carry the watch insert like a pocket watch and lost it somewhere. I also found 2 rolls of Lucky brand 120 B&W film...expired in 2007. I'll still try shooting it.

I am looking for a MX with that Data back. Do you also have the dedicated MX body to go with that back?

On the rebuild topic: guess you've seen this: Digital Image Studio, Pentax Ni-Cd Battery Pack LX refurbishment

I also know that there are some companies that provides custom made battery "racing packs", they could make those 7.2V stacks ready.

Charging the pack using those 500mAh batteries could take as much as 24 hrs. It might be an idea to get cells with less capacity to cut down on charge time. Heat emission might also be a problem in that closed compartment inside the battery pack, especially during charging. Heat emission during charging is due to internal resitance within each cell, and also additonal resitance from the soldred connections and leads. Simple calcualtion would be V x I = W: 1.2V x 500mAH = 600mW x 12 cells = 7 200mW, i.e 7.2 W per hour x 24 hours = 172.8 W heat needs to be transported out of the casing. That is lot more than it was designed for (110mAH cells). Now I am not a battery expert, and this is a very rough estimate taking away many of the parameters, but it might be something to think about during the rebuild? ( I also know that Ohms law might not work properly for battery recharge calculations, so.. it is what it is: just a suggestion to that you do take this into your consideration.)

[tonyzoc]

I am looking for a MX with that Data back. Do you also have the dedicated MX body to go with that back?



On the rebuild topic: guess you've seen this: Digital Image Studio, Pentax Ni-Cd Battery Pack LX refurbishment



I also know that there are some companies that provides custom made battery "racing packs", they could make those 7.2V stacks ready.



Charging the pack using those 500mAh batteries could take as much as 24 hrs. It might be an idea to get cells with less capacity to cut down on charge time. Heat emission might also be a problem in that closed compartment inside the battery pack, especially during charging. Heat emission during charging is due to internal resitance within each cell, and also additonal resitance from the soldred connections and leads. Simple calcualtion would be V x I = W: 1.2V x 500mAH = 600mW x 12 cells = 7 200mW, i.e 7.2 W per hour x 24 hours = 172.8 W heat needs to be transported out of the casing. That is lot more than it was designed for (110mAH cells). Now I am not a battery expert, and this is a very rough estimate taking away many of the parameters, but it might be something to think about during the rebuild? ( I also know that Ohms law might not work properly for battery recharge calculations, so.. it is what it is: just a suggestion to that you do take this into your consideration.)

Thanks for the info. Yes I've seen that link and I used it before when rebuilding an LX battery with nicds. I'm going to try the NIMH and see how it goes. I also saw Excell has a 3.6v NIMH at full AA size...basically 3 1/3 cells already built. If the 500mah does work out I might try those. I picked up a 100W 110->220 converter that I'll use with the charger pack I have...at least until I find my 110v one.
I don't have the MX data body. I saw one on eBay a few months ago...asking $300 but I don't know if it sold. I always look at MXs to check for the two contacts on the back. I once had the cord that plugs into the PC socket...but not sure what happened to it. I bought this back from Brooklyn Camera Exchange back in the 80s and I did have an MX data at one time, but never thought it was something I should keep. Really that back isn't that useful unless you needed it for work...like an insurance adjuster...

So, now I have the battery grip M, an LX NiCd battery to rebuild, the motor MD and charger pack M (in 220v)...plus I picked up 2 LX motors I don't need and will be selling. Both seem to be working fine...though not tested on an LX body. Also today I'm sending out my K2DMD for a CLA.

[johnha]

The photo shows an input of 220v 2.5VA 50/60Hz, a VA (volts x amps) is similar to (but not the same as) a watt.

In normal circumstances a 70w 220/110 converter would easily suffice, however some I've seen have had minimum VA/watt ratings well above 2.5 VA/watt - there may not be enough draw for them to work properly, something to check.

[tonyzoc]

The photo shows an input of 220v 2.5VA 50/60Hz, a VA (volts x amps) is similar to (but not the same as) a watt.



In normal circumstances a 70w 220/110 converter would easily suffice, however some I've seen have had minimum VA/watt ratings well above 2.5 VA/watt - there may not be enough draw for them to work properly, something to check.

That's good to know. Hopefully the one I get will work.

I'm about to put new flooring in my house, so I have to pack up all the rooms...like I'm moving out almost. So, maybe I'll come across my 110v Charger Pack M

[tonyzoc]

I got a 100W 110<->220 converter but I'm only getting about 12v coming out of the charge pack M...the light on it doesn't light either. I checked the voltage out of the converter and it's 240v (my input must be 120v)... I'm testing the output from the charge pack M with the two top holes (each side of the notch). I'm not sure if that's the correct way to test though (what are the 2 other holes for?) I'm supposed to be getting new 1/3 AA cells and I'll try again once I rebuild the LX battery. I don't expect it will work. I did try plugging the charge pack M lead right into a motor LX and it buzzes but doesn't move...so I suspect the 12v I'm reading is probably correct...since the motor needs 14v to work. I've looked online for 18v chargers but none show output as low as 25mA and I'd be afraid to plus a 600mA charger in...as I'm ignorant of what would happen.

[tonyzoc]

Speaking of battery grips... Did anyone else ever make a battery pistol grip like the battery grip M? I feel like I saw one back in the day and I think it was Olympus... I don't think Nikon ever had one.

[johnha]

Speaking of battery grips... Did anyone else ever make a battery pistol grip like the battery grip M? I feel like I saw one back in the day and I think it was Olympus... I don't think Nikon ever had one.

I've recently seen a photo of Steve McCurry holding one above his head in deep water, pretty sure he used Nikon.

[tonyzoc]

I've recently seen a photo of Steve McCurry holding one above his head in deep water, pretty sure he used Nikon.

I've look around on Rockwell's Nikon page and didn't see one. Also I never see one on eBay. I'd love one for my F2. I'll have to keep looking. They're pretty rare even for Pentax.