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05-09-2021, 07:41 PM   #1
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Which flash pentax k1000?

I have recently bought a vivitar 283 flash, though have just realized that the subject ends up being 9-12 metres away shooting between 5.6 and f8, which i like to use. This is rating at 320 on portra 400. I prefer subjects to be closer, as the further away often means not as clear images, when shooting people on 35mm.

Would you recommend or is there a different flash, that is still compatible, in which i can get closer in at these apertures? Thanks

05-10-2021, 01:12 AM   #2
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Use the thyristor controlled auto modes to use the flash at closer range.
05-10-2021, 04:46 AM   #3
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You could also point up and us a bounce card or other device.
05-10-2021, 08:39 AM   #4
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Seeing how popular the 283 was, there are probably plenty of accessories you can use to modify the flash output to fit your needs.

05-10-2021, 08:57 AM   #5
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There is a full manual control module for the 283, the Vivitar VP-1, but it is a bit pricey from the usual online auction sites.
05-10-2021, 02:07 PM   #6
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I don't really understand what the problem is. The basic Vivitar 283 has one manual mode (a full power blast) and four auto modes. Perhaps you are trying only to use the manual mode, or perhaps the unit is faulty and the auto modes are also giving full power only.

In fact when set to an auto mode, the power should automatically reduce to only what the subject needs; so eg in the purple mode (with a smaller aperture) you can have the subject as close as 2 ft and in yellow mode (with a larger aperture) as close as 5 ft. The recommended distance ranges in the auto modes are independent of the film speed.

This is described in the attached extract from the 283 manual. I have also shown a close-up of the Auto dial calculator.



05-10-2021, 02:19 PM   #7
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I wonder if my old 283 still works... I used to use it with my Yashica Mat 124G on the end of a long cable to provide raking light for photographing inscriptions.

05-10-2021, 02:54 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by womble Quote
I wonder if my old 283 still works...
Be careful if you were thinking about putting it on the hotshoe of a modern camera (ie electronic, including later film cameras). Some 283s had a high trigger voltage that could burn out the camera circuit. 200v and even 600v have been reported! The trigger voltage was reduced in later 283s but in their wisdom Vivitar did not change the model number or add "Mark ii" or anything like that to identify the change. Seems they thought we should not worry our pretty heads about it .So fitting a 283 without checking the trigger voltage with a digital multi-meter (an analogue one won't do) is making the camera play Russian Roulette

To anyone wanting to buy a 283, and there are loads on Ebay etc (it was the most numerous flash unit ever), I would advocate a Vivitar 285 HV instead. They are very similar but with certain .improvements, including a low trigger voltage. The "HV" suffix is essential - 285s without the "HV" do have a high trigger voltage. Ironically the "HV" does stand for "high voltage" but they don't mean the trigger voltage, it means they were capable of being driven by an external high voltage battery pack, paparazzi style.

Last edited by Lord Lucan; 05-10-2021 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Clarification
05-10-2021, 05:47 PM   #9
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I used a Vivitar 2800 autothyristor flash on my Pentax K 1000. The autothyristor mode (auto exposure) worked really well on it.
05-10-2021, 05:48 PM   #10
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How much closer do you want to get? In Auto mode the 283 goes down to 1.5 and 1.2m in yellow and red mode for f5.6 and f8 at ISO 400.

The Minolta 360PX/320X/320 will go down to 0.7m in auto mode for that aperture range.

You can always use a neutral density filter if you need to get closer.
05-11-2021, 03:37 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
Be careful if you were thinking about putting it on the hotshoe of a modern camera (ie electronic, including later film cameras). Some 283s had a high trigger voltage that could burn out the camera circuit. 200v and even 600v have been reported! The trigger voltage was reduced in later 283s but in their wisdom Vivitar did not change the model number or add "Mark ii" or anything like that to identify the change. Seems they thought we should not worry our pretty heads about it .So fitting a 283 without checking the trigger voltage with a digital multi-meter (an analogue one won't do) is making the camera play Russian Roulette

To anyone wanting to buy a 283, and there are loads on Ebay etc (it was the most numerous flash unit ever), I would advocate a Vivitar 285 HV instead. They are very similar but with certain .improvements, including a low trigger voltage. The "HV" suffix is essential - 285s without the "HV" do have a high trigger voltage. Ironically the "HV" does stand for "high voltage" but they don't mean the trigger voltage, it means they were capable of being driven by an external high voltage battery pack, paparazzi style.
I have a modern flash I use with my digital cameras. If I blow the dust off the 283 it'll be to go with a contemporary film camera. I've even ended-up with two Superlite II flashguns.

TBH, I rarely use flash until recently. Just lately, I have been experimenting with RTI (reflectance transformation imaging) to record badly weathered inscriptions, so the more modern flash has seen a lot of use in the last month.

K.
05-11-2021, 09:49 AM   #12
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The 283 was very a good flash, IIRC it had a few modes you could choose for low power as well.
If you still think is too bright get a diffuser or just make one with white paper to lower the output
05-16-2021, 10:57 AM   #13
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Suggest you look for a small automatic flash unit with lower guide number.
I like the old Sunpak units but there are plenty of other good brands.

When buying a used electronic flash always test charge time.
C1 the large electrolytic capacitor often degrades with age.
Such units may never come ready or will be battery hogs.

Chris
05-18-2021, 06:05 PM - 1 Like   #14
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Unless you know how much light attenuation there is from a bounce card, diffuser, or scrim you may have to run exposure tests or measure with a flash meter In auto mode the flash distance check light will only show if you are beyond the flash range, not under.
05-18-2021, 11:22 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by jason88 Quote
. This is rating at 320 on portra 400.
QuoteOriginally posted by jason88 Quote
I prefer subjects to be closer, as the further away often means not as clear images, when shooting people on 35mm.
OK...I have my Viv 283 in hand and also a number of accessories in the box on the shelf.

I won't argue with your shooting logic, but will summarize with a few points:
  • EI of 360 is a little fast for moderate distance with a moderate to high-powered flash. It was so in the '70s and 80s and remains so today.
  • Shooting close with flash usually requires that the flash be off-camera or some distance away or of low power; this for practical reasons and to spare your subject the discomfort of having their eyebrows seared.*
  • A requirement of moderate aperture settings does not make this any easier.
I did some experimenting with my Viv 283 and going outside the values on the table in the manual resulted in over or underexposure. For your preferred f/5.6 and EI 320, auto(yellow) mode is the best match, but will not get you closer than 1.6m. Using f/8 in auto(red) mode will get you as close as 1.2m while it will take f/16 in auto(blue) to get you below 1m. Adjusting power manually with the VP-1 module produces similar limitations.

I suggest narrower aperture or a longer lens (to get adequate working distance) for auto flash at EI 320. As you might expect, modern manual speed lights present a similar conundrum unless equipped with ND filters or similar modifiers. FWIW, similar limitations crop up even for TTL and P-TTL automation.

Clarification: Give auto(red) mode a try at f/8 for closer work (down to 1.2m) or auto(yellow) at f/5.6 for 1.6m and further. Have fun!


Steve

* Yes, an exaggeration, though perhaps not by much. I did a remote discharge of the 283 are few weeks ago with some papers near the flash head and they started to smolder.

Last edited by stevebrot; 05-19-2021 at 12:06 PM.
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