[ismaelg]

Hello,

One of the easiest, yet most important things you can do to a film camera to keep it in top shape is servicing the light seals. The concept is simple: remove the old, replace with the new. But there is a little catch to this. Sometimes the old seals become a sticky gunky mess. And it needs to be completely removed and clean before putting on the new seals.
I'm working a friend's K1000 SE by replacing the seals and an external cleanup job. The following picture is the result of quite a few long minutes worth of residue cleaning AFTER the seal was removed. And this is only the bottom seal. Haven't touched the others yet.

The channel is now squeaky clean and ready for the new seal. Still need to work the other seals (top, sides, door, etc.).
There is no magic trick to this. Just keep going until it is done.

Thanks,
Ismael

[BigMackCam]

I *hate* replacing light seals, especially when they've got to that "total gunk" stage... but it has to be done, and it's very satisfying when the job is complete.

I've been meaning to try the popular old method of using black yarn instead of foam as a replacement. It needs to be spot-glued at a couple of strategic points along the way, but once it's in place, it can be a very effective and very long-term solution...

[Eyewanders]

It is most definitely one of the more tedious and irritating (but necessary) tasks... that's for sure.

I've been meaning to try the popular old method of using black yarn instead of foam as a replacement. It needs to be spot-glued at a couple of strategic points along the way, but once it's in place, it can be a very effective and very long-term solution...

I have as well, but I've quite the stock of foam in various thicknesses still and just haven't gotten around to giving this method a go. The two most recent CLA jobs I've received back from Eric H in recent years he used that.

[c.a.m]

Yup, it's a miserable job, but so rewarding when it's completed!

I've tried various methods or tricks to make the job less tedious:

- Wedge folded sticky packing tape or cellophane tape into the channel, hoping to 'pick up' most of the gunk. It sort of works, but doesn't remove all of the old seal.
- Different solvents: alcohol, Goo Gone, WD40 dropped onto the surface, etc. The best for me has been Ronsonol lighter fluid, the solvent I used on my first light-seal job.
- Last resort: Propane plumbing torch, full blast, held a cm away from the d**n seal. (just kidding -- butane works better)

I poke tissue or kitchen paper towel in along the channels and soak it with solvent. Let it sit for a while, then merrily scrape with a bamboo skewer that is shaped to size.

- Craig

[Eyewanders]

Yup, it's a miserable job, but so rewarding when it's completed!

I've tried various methods or tricks to make the job less tedious:

- Wedge folded sticky packing tape or cellophane tape into the channel, hoping to 'pick up' most of the gunk. It sort of works, but doesn't remove all of the old seal.
- Different solvents: alcohol, Goo Gone, WD40 dropped onto the surface, etc. The best for me has been Ronsonol lighter fluid, the solvent I used on my first light-seal job.
- Last resort: Propane plumbing torch, full blast, held a cm away from the d**n seal. (just kidding -- butane works better)

I poke tissue or kitchen paper towel in along the channels and soak it with solvent. Let it sit for a while, then merrily scrape with a bamboo skewer that is shaped to size.

- Craig

Yup. Naphtha (Ronsonol) is the stuff for the job. Just have to be careful where it goes. Powerful solvent.
I use cheap wooden chopsticks, whittled to the right angle.

[BigMackCam]

Yup, it's a miserable job, but so rewarding when it's completed!

I've tried various methods or tricks to make the job less tedious:

- Wedge folded sticky packing tape or cellophane tape into the channel, hoping to 'pick up' most of the gunk. It sort of works, but doesn't remove all of the old seal.
- Different solvents: alcohol, Goo Gone, WD40 dropped onto the surface, etc. The best for me has been Ronsonol lighter fluid, the solvent I used on my first light-seal job.
- Last resort: Propane plumbing torch, full blast, held a cm away from the d**n seal. (just kidding -- butane works better)

I poke tissue or kitchen paper towel in along the channels and soak it with solvent. Let it sit for a while, then merrily scrape with a bamboo skewer that is shaped to size.

- Craig

Yup. Naphtha (Ronsonol) is the stuff for the job. Just have to be careful where it goes. Powerful solvent.
I use cheap wooden chopsticks, whittled to the right angle.

I use wooden cocktail sticks with the sharp ends blunted or broken off, and soaked in nothing more than water to soften the wood. That's usually good enough to get rid of all the major gunk - then, like you guys, it's onto the solvents. Zippo lighter fluid is very effective, but I feel safer with WD40 even though it takes a bit longer Either way, taping over everything except those grooves is essential... as is a well-ventilated work area

[ChrisPlatt]

Next time I plan to try some tape head cleaning pads, presaturated with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
They're similar to alcohol preps only much larger and thicker.
I will add as much Goo Gone as necessary and use the requisite pointy wooden tool.

Now where's Jon Goodman's email address?

Chris

[Eyewanders]

Now where's Jon Goodman's email address?

Legend. Those are timesavers. And he's possibly the nicest human on the planet.

[Sam_I_am]

Now where's Jon Goodman's email address?

Chris

......

---------- Post added 05-15-22 at 07:29 PM ----------

Legend. Those are timesavers. And he's possibly the nicest human on the planet.

Best $11.00 you will ever spend.

[titrisol]

---
I use cheap wooden chopsticks, whittled to the right angle.

I found something called cuticle sticks for manicures, those are shaped perfectly and work like a champ!
Very similar to the one Jon Goodman used to send with his kits

[Ray-uk]

I've been meaning to try the popular old method of using black yarn instead of foam as a replacement. It needs to be spot-glued at a couple of strategic points along the way, but once it's in place, it can be a very effective and very long-term solution...

Black or clear nail varnish (nail polish) works very well as the adhesive, just a few drops applied into the groove with a cocktail stick. It dries very quickly so if you put a spot on the start point, press the yarn in then leave it to dry for a few minutes you can then pull the yarn fairly tight and apply further spots as you fit the rest of it.

[BigMackCam]

Black or clear nail varnish (nail polish) works very well as the adhesive, just a few drops applied into the groove with a cocktail stick. It dries very quickly so if you put a spot on the start point, press the yarn in then leave it to dry for a few minutes you can then pull the yarn fairly tight and apply further spots as you fit the rest of it.

Thanks for the tip, Ray! When I get round to trying this, I was intending to use something like Elmer's rubber cement - but this sounds like a better option