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09-29-2022, 08:01 AM   #1
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Sheared Off Screw Head ME Super Bottom Plate

Hi,
While trying to remove one of the two outer screws (not the middle one) in the bottom plate the head sheared off leaving the threads flush in the body.
Any ideas on removing such a small piece obviously frozen pretty good without damaging the body?
Maybe drilling it out, filling with JB Weld and somehow re-tapping? Screwing in a screw with thread anti seize while the JB is still soft?
Or, live with it since there are two other screws holding the plate? The plate seems to be held pretty good with only two.

09-29-2022, 08:21 AM   #2
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You are using JIS drivers?

You want to invest in a screw extractor:
https://www.micro-tools.com/pages/search-results-page?q=micro%20screw%20extractor

You can buy the Moody Tools by the piece rather than a set. Try their website, Amazon or eBay.
09-29-2022, 08:36 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
You are using JIS drivers?

You want to invest in a screw extractor:
https://www.micro-tools.com/pages/search-results-page?q=micro%20screw%20extractor

You can buy the Moody Tools by the piece rather than a set. Try their website, Amazon or eBay.
Yes. The head is fine. The screw sheared in the threaded section. Not a screwdriver problem.

---------- Post added 09-29-22 at 08:44 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Ed Smith Quote
Yes. The head is fine. The screw sheared in the threaded section. Not a screwdriver problem.
I think what I might do is drill it out, fill with JB, drill a micro hole and tap it with a new screw when the JB hardens. I don't think I want to "invest" in a micro extractor. Doubt it works very well and I don't plan on doing this more than once.
09-29-2022, 09:33 AM   #4
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The extractors are counter threaded so they won't tighten the screw even more when you drill. The right tool for the right job can make all the difference.

09-29-2022, 10:45 AM   #5
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I was going to suggest an easy out as well if there is one fine enough. You need to drill into the screw shank that is left and the easy-out is reverse threaded and taper out so it will go in farther and as it extracts the screw. If that doesn't work hopefully you can drill out the old screw and then tap new threads and use a screw with a wider shank.
09-29-2022, 03:06 PM   #6
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The toolmakers where I used to work would use the screw extractors, if that didn't work they welded a shaft of metal to the broken screw then turned it out. However that was with much larger screw holes than camera screws. But I truly don't think you could get a drop of mixed JB Weld on the broken screw without overflowing to the body and welding it in permanently. Frankly, if the plate is flat and not warped I would live with it.
09-29-2022, 03:15 PM   #7
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Yes, a little JB weld in the threads and you'll never get the screw remains out by turning it. You'll have to drill it out completely and rethread the hole for a larger diameter screw provided there is enough material left to do that.

A drop of penetrating oil and screw extractors would be your best bet in my book. There should be another thread were the poster used an extractor with satisfactory results.

09-29-2022, 03:45 PM   #8
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I have used a fine Dremel drill (actually an old dentist drill bit) and drilled down the centre of the broken shaft. This needs a steady hand support. With the centre of the screw gone, it may break apart.
09-29-2022, 07:49 PM - 2 Likes   #9
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Agree with the left hand drill bit recommendations. That is what you should do. McMaster Carr is where I would go to get one, and I see they have them in small sizes for under $7 (before shipping). That shouldn't wind up being much more expensive than the tubes of JB weld, and it's actually the right tool for the job.
You'll want to figure out what size to buy, it should be just a little smaller than the minor diameter of the seized fastener. That should leave you with still good threads, since it will most likely catch and back the screw out, and all you need to do then is replace the screw.


If you are going to JB weld, you will just want to drill everything currently in there out oversize, fill with JB, then drill and tap the original size again into the JB. That will mean buying a tap and the JB weld, as well as the screw. Probably not cheaper, easier, or in any way better than the left hand drill solution.

Another thing you can try, though it will most likely just wind up mucking things up worse, is using the tip of some kind of abrasive cone, spinning counterclockwise in a drill, and pressing it against the exposed part of the screw where the head broke off. This is only likely to work if the screw isn't actually seized in there (or not seized very strongly, anyways), and the head sheared off for some other reason.
Like I say, unlikely. And since we're talking (I must assume) about a very small fastener, it will be very hard to pull that off without just grinding un-control-edly away where you don't want to.
Not something I recommend in this instance, but it can work in a few situations (a stud or threaded rod that is free but somehow got screwed too deep into a blind hole, or where an already damaged fastener sheared at the head but the threads are free) (another similar trick for similar situations is superglueing something to the damaged/captive fastener, which very definitely isn't a good idea on such a small application since you won't be able to control where the glue is contacting).
Also, sometimes such a desperate attempt is "worth a shot" if the piece will be lost anyways or if you will be drilling and welding or helicoiling anyways. Machinists might potentially try lots of silly things in an attempt to make their mistake disappear, before they go fess up to having made the mistake and fixing it the right way. But don't ask me how I know that.

Last edited by wadge22; 09-29-2022 at 07:58 PM.
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