Originally posted by wantfastcars Great info, thank you. I intend to stick a lens on it in the shop and test it out - if they don't want to let me do that, I'm gonna leave it. Good idea on using my mirrorless to confirm metering - my camera has an APS-C sensor though, so in theory it should meter one stop lower at equivalent aperture and film speed (ISO), correct?
I looked at the MX, but I'd really like a camera that has an Aperture Priority mode in addition to Manual. This has pointed me towards the K2 as well, which is also considerably cheaper, more reliably repairable, and is available in the delightful silver-on-black vintage camera coloration. Considering those factors, I am leaning slightly away from the LK.
Also good advice. The local big-box stores actually do film development, and should be able to do color negative film pretty quick. I'll see if they'll let me.
Aaron addressed metering with both the LX - or any other film camera, compared to your mirrorless provided of course the meter is working as expected.
I don't know what film types you use or if you are aware that most color negatives - as well as b&w film, have significantly wider tolerance for overexposure than any digital media. For instance, I tested Kodak Portra 400 and compared it to some of my digitals in RAW mode and you can see below that the digis are no longer useable at all past +3 while Portra just keeps going. In fact at +10, I am still able to post process it with minor tools like WB & levels to get useful results.
So general rule of thumb with color negatives is when in doubt, overexpose.
Or you can purposely do it to achieve an effect like I did below. It was daylight hours and come upon this scene but the water was barely trickling so it would have been pretty bland. The meter recommended 1/60 but I figure a 2 second exposure would do the trick and so I overexposed +7. Given that I've tested Fuji 100's exposure latitude beforehand, I was confident I could work with the results.