|
Maybe the Pentax AF280T will suit you? It is quite cheap, and offers tilt/swiwel ("bounce"), automatic operation and two manual flash power settings (1/1 and 1/12). It also has a TTL (not P-TTL) for use with the newer 'automatic' film bodies and the *ist D.
If you want to do fully manual flash, another one will do better. I had a Sunpak Digi Robot 32 that had a full array of manual and automatic flash settings (though not TTL), better if you don't trust the auto-thyristor sensor in the flash.
Although a light meter always is good to have, you don't really need it. The MX has an on-board light meter, that the camera is 'manual' means that it indicated whether the selected aperture and shutter speed leads to over- or underexposure, of which you select both yourself. Manual cameras also tend to be able to operate without batteries ("mechanical operation"), though this usually isn't an issue (a set of SR/LR44 would typically last tens of rolls, probably much longer) unless you are shooting in extreme conditions.
Of course, a light meter will offer more flexibility in many situations, though you could always adjust the camera metering after a grey card held up in front of the camera (or aim at grass, grey tarmac or even your palm) if you encounter a situation in which you are not sure how much you should compensate. I suggest picking up your K200D and try out how manual mode and center-weighted works out for you. Note situations with back-lit subjects and certain other subjects that tend to 'fool' the meter.
| 
Similar Threads 
