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08-24-2010, 08:01 PM   #16
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Sounds like you have a micro prism dot on your K1000. My KX has a micro prism dot and my K1000 has a split prism.

I find that the micro prism blacks out much sooner on slow lenses but it works very well with fast lenses.

08-24-2010, 08:06 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steinback Quote
Sounds like you have a micro prism dot on your K1000. My KX has a micro prism dot and my K1000 has a split prism.

I find that the micro prism blacks out much sooner on slow lenses but it works very well with fast lenses.
Thanks for the info.

I assume the "black out" is time when the mirror is flipped and you can't see through the viewfinder. I hope this isn't a stupid question, but how does the focusing screen affect the start of the black out period?
08-24-2010, 08:57 PM   #18
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The Super Program is an excellent camera, an improvement over the ME Super in many ways and has a nice bright finder with both a microprism and split image. Plus depth of field preview.
08-24-2010, 10:03 PM   #19
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I'm referring to when the view through the split prism or micro prism focusing aid on the viewfinder blacks out. The little prisms need a certain minimum amount of light to work, otherwise they will appear black and be of little use. The micro prism on my KX starts to show a grid of black lines at around f/4 that makes it more difficult to focus using the centre aid. The split prism on my K1000 is usable until f/5.6 or a little later depending on lighting. Your experience may be different depending on the design of the prisms on your cameras' respective focusing screens.

08-25-2010, 02:43 AM   #20
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I think the Super A would be a good way to go.
2000th sec shutter, aperature & shutter priority plus fully auto.
Takes, & makes use of, all the A Series lens & their electronic features, plus of course all the other bayonet fit lenses can be used.
One of the most under rated of all pentax manual focus cameras, & can be bought at a very reasonable price.
Cheers, Pickles.
08-25-2010, 04:19 AM   #21
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another vote for the SuperProgram, or SuperA is you prefer a black body. Its a really great camera, and is compatible with any Pentax lens, if you leave out the vignetting on some DA lenses. You can get it really cheap on Ebay, got mine for around 40 in excellent condition.
08-25-2010, 05:15 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steinback Quote
I'm referring to when the view through the split prism or micro prism focusing aid on the viewfinder blacks out. The little prisms need a certain minimum amount of light to work, otherwise they will appear black and be of little use. The micro prism on my KX starts to show a grid of black lines at around f/4 that makes it more difficult to focus using the centre aid. The split prism on my K1000 is usable until f/5.6 or a little later depending on lighting. Your experience may be different depending on the design of the prisms on your cameras' respective focusing screens.
That makes more sense, thanks. I tried mounting a slow lens (18-55 kit) to the ME just to see what would happen with the split screen and noticed the bottom half of the circle was black.
08-25-2010, 05:22 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom in Delaware Quote
The Super Program is an excellent camera, an improvement over the ME Super in many ways and has a nice bright finder with both a microprism and split image. Plus depth of field preview.
QuoteOriginally posted by pickles Quote
I think the Super A would be a good way to go.
2000th sec shutter, aperature & shutter priority plus fully auto.
Takes, & makes use of, all the A Series lens & their electronic features, plus of course all the other bayonet fit lenses can be used.
One of the most under rated of all pentax manual focus cameras, & can be bought at a very reasonable price.
Cheers, Pickles.
QuoteOriginally posted by vsl3-e Quote
another vote for the SuperProgram, or SuperA is you prefer a black body. Its a really great camera, and is compatible with any Pentax lens, if you leave out the vignetting on some DA lenses. You can get it really cheap on Ebay, got mine for around 40 in excellent condition.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will keep my eyes open for a Super Program/Super A In the meantime, I'll play around with the K1000 and ME that have been sitting around unused in my closet. I think after reflecting on this discussion, I'll probably just get rid of the ZX-50; for the times I would actually need/want AF, I'd probably be better off just using my K7/Kx.

08-25-2010, 05:58 AM   #24
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A couple of sources for the K1000 manual:

Pentax K 1000 instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals
http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/K1000%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf

The manual instructs how to load & rewind the film etc. Basically, open the back, put film cartridge in the only spot it can go, pull out a little of the film so you can put the end in one of the slots on the take-up spool, then operate the film advance just enough to make sure the sproket holes engage the sprokets in the camera, close up the back, advance/trip shutter 2 or so times... and you're on your way. To verify that the film is moving when you advance, the rewind knob should be turning when you're advancing. (About the only thing we sometimes screw up is with loading the film so it actually moves...)

Rewind's easy too - there's a button on the bottom you push in, this frees up the film so you can use the little rewind crank. Really, the only mistakes here tend to be two: 1) you keep advancing the film past the end (there's a resistance + the frame counter) so it breaks, 2) the button doesn't stay pushed and you break the film in the rewind.

I've done all three once or twice and I bet most other film shooters have done these things too...
08-25-2010, 06:13 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
A couple of sources for the K1000 manual:

Pentax K 1000 instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals
http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/K1000%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf

The manual instructs how to load & rewind the film etc. Basically, open the back, put film cartridge in the only spot it can go, pull out a little of the film so you can put the end in one of the slots on the take-up spool, then operate the film advance just enough to make sure the sproket holes engage the sprokets in the camera, close up the back, advance/trip shutter 2 or so times... and you're on your way. To verify that the film is moving when you advance, the rewind knob should be turning when you're advancing. (About the only thing we sometimes screw up is with loading the film so it actually moves...)

Rewind's easy too - there's a button on the bottom you push in, this frees up the film so you can use the little rewind crank. Really, the only mistakes here tend to be two: 1) you keep advancing the film past the end (there's a resistance + the frame counter) so it breaks, 2) the button doesn't stay pushed and you break the film in the rewind.

I've done all three once or twice and I bet most other film shooters have done these things too...
Thanks for the detailed instructions and links to the manual. Hopefully now that I'm aware of some of the common pitfalls I can try my best to avoid them
08-25-2010, 07:09 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by dgaies Quote
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will keep my eyes open for a Super Program/Super A In the meantime, I'll play around with the K1000 and ME that have been sitting around unused in my closet. I think after reflecting on this discussion, I'll probably just get rid of the ZX-50; for the times I would actually need/want AF, I'd probably be better off just using my K7/Kx.
Ok, so I got a little impulsive and just bought a Super Program Program Plus. This should come as no surprise to anyone who knows me... I can be a bit implusive when it comes to LBA and now I suppose CBA

Anyway, here's what I bought. Probably could have held out and tried to find a better deal, but this one looked nice and for $90 including an A50/1.7 (which is probably worth almost that much anyway) I figured I'd give it a shot


Last edited by dgaies; 08-25-2010 at 07:36 AM. Reason: because I can't tell the difference between a Super Program and Program Plus :)
08-25-2010, 07:19 AM   #27
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Congrats, though that's a Program Plus
I have the same set up, though mine's black, and the lens it came with was a SMC-A 28/2.8... Don't worry, for me the main thing it is missing vs. the Super Pgm is Tv autoexposure. With your A lenses, you just set the aperture to A for program, or use the aperture ring to select aperture - the camera then goes into Av mode. With M lenses the default is Av; nothing is simpler than that!

that flash is a good one, it will work with your digital bodies as well, though not in P-TTL. You should be able to set the flash on auto, dial in your ISO, and the flash should communicate to your camera... which will set itself to the appropriate aperture and shutter speed.

The gear looks to be in excellent shape, that was a good buy indeed
08-25-2010, 07:26 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
Congrats, though that's a Program Plus
I have the same set up, though mine's black, and the lens it came with was a SMC-A 28/2.8... Don't worry, for me the main thing it is missing vs. the Super Pgm is Tv autoexposure. With your A lenses, you just set the aperture to A for program, or use the aperture ring to select aperture - the camera then goes into Av mode. With M lenses the default is Av; nothing is simpler than that!

that flash is a good one, it will work with your digital bodies as well, though not in P-TTL. You should be able to set the flash on auto, dial in your ISO, and the flash should communicate to your camera... which will set itself to the appropriate aperture and shutter speed.

The gear looks to be in excellent shape, that was a good buy indeed
Oppps!

Guess I was a bit too impulsive there and didn't pay very good attention to what I was doing. In truth it was really the nice looking A50/1.7 that caught my eye as I feel that would be a good lens for me to play around with on film. I'm sure my A50/1.2 might be slightly better, but the A50/1.7 is a lot lighter and would be fine to just leave on there all the time to start.

I actually very rarely shoot in Tv so I imagine I won't miss too much not having it... still feel a bit silly for buying the "wrong" camera
08-25-2010, 07:36 AM   #29
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One thing to have in mind : the ZX-L has P-TTL support, so if you have a P-TTL flash, you can use wireless!
You can even use HSS wireless, which is an option that never even made it to the DSLR line!

And with the option to change focusing screen, you can install a ZX-M split screen in your ZX-L, and have a nice manual film body.
08-25-2010, 07:41 AM   #30
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Good point. I do have an AF-540 Then again, most of the time I use a flash I feel like it takes me a couple reviews of my shots to "get it right", something that probably isn't going to work on film



QuoteOriginally posted by dlacouture Quote
One thing to have in mind : the ZX-L has P-TTL support, so if you have a P-TTL flash, you can use wireless!
You can even use HSS wireless, which is an option that never even made it to the DSLR line!

And with the option to change focusing screen, you can install a ZX-M split screen in your ZX-L, and have a nice manual film body.

Last edited by dgaies; 08-25-2010 at 07:46 AM. Reason: spelling
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