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11-27-2010, 02:37 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Actually, I'd say your ship passed mine in the night from the get go. Your comment appeared to me to miss the point of my first comment when you responded to it. It is a given that lowering ISO lowers contrast. Now, if there are other things you can do in the photographic process to adjust contrast, I'm not sure what that has to do with the film. You still need to know what the effect of ISO is on the film. Or what am I missing?
I agree. Film has such fantastic DR that exposer is not usually the problem as the ASA/ISO numbers affect contrast more than anything. Atleast this is what I have found.

11-27-2010, 06:37 PM   #17
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I actually prefer the kodak 400CN that film cleared alot better in processing and made enlarging it much easier. I usually rated it at ISO320 - it's a really bad idea to underexpose negs.
11-27-2010, 10:39 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Actually, I'd say your ship passed mine in the night from the get go. Your comment appeared to me to miss the point of my first comment when you responded to it. It is a given that lowering ISO lowers contrast.

Now, if there are other things you can do in the photographic process to adjust contrast (which in my experience were not necessarily so easy), you still need to know what the effect of ISO is on the film. Or what am I missing?
What I'm trying to get across is that there is no reason not to use XP2 at ISO 200. Your remarks seem to indicate that the resultant lower contrast is somehow ia serious problem. It is not. Contrast adjustments are a basic part of the printing process, whether digital or darkroom.

For example, with XP2 scans I often use Photoshop Curves to increase midtone contrast while holding shadow and highlight detail. This is a simple matter of creating a toe and a shoulder in the curve, then adjusting the slope of the straight line portion. Ther process usually takes me less than 30 seconds. The results can be fine-tuned using the shadow/highlight function.

This works best when your scan has ample information at both ends of the tonal scale, which does require going beyond the usual auto settings.

Those of you who are familiar with sensitometry will know what I'm talking about. Those who aren't can google H&D curve.
11-28-2010, 09:34 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by John Poirier Quote
What I'm trying to get across is that there is no reason not to use XP2 at ISO 200. Your remarks seem to indicate that the resultant lower contrast is somehow ia serious problem. It is not. Contrast adjustments are a basic part of the printing process, whether digital or darkroom.

For example, with XP2 scans I often use Photoshop Curves to increase midtone contrast while holding shadow and highlight detail. This is a simple matter of creating a toe and a shoulder in the curve, then adjusting the slope of the straight line portion. Ther process usually takes me less than 30 seconds. The results can be fine-tuned using the shadow/highlight function.

This works best when your scan has ample information at both ends of the tonal scale, which does require going beyond the usual auto settings.

Those of you who are familiar with sensitometry will know what I'm talking about. Those who aren't can google H&D curve.
The question posed by the OP, which I was answering, was whether it was best to use XP2 at ISO 200. This is a matter of preference to which you are entitled to an opinion, and I hope I am as well. I can adjust almost anything in Photoshop or a wet darkroom with enough attention. Life is simpler to me (and perhaps to others) if the negative is closer the way I want it. Let's leave it at that.


Last edited by GeneV; 11-28-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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