This camera is more fun than just about any other camera, except maybe a little Leica. The SLR-like handling and non-modal knobs are great for anyone like me who can't deal with TV remotes. The weight is less than the big pro Nikon cameras.
I don't think lack of changeble backs is that much of an issue. Most people are all into Velvia or all into B&W. If you swing both ways, there are only 16 shots on a roll, or else you can pick up a second body for your other film. The lenses are expensive, not the bodies, and if you depend on it, it may be nice to have a back-up for an out-of-production camera.
Yes, the 35mm is a great lens... 21mm equivalent. I'm happy with the manual in that focal length, as I use it for landscape where I can play depth-of-field games. I'd be turning off the auto in most cases.
All that said...
I find that when I have North Coast develop and scan my Leica Velvia shots the total mpixels is about the same as their 645 scans. To get higher-res, grain-less medium format you might need to be at 6x7 and do your own scanning. And, in the end, I really love the grain in 35mm velvia I get from NCPS. See this blow up of a lilly-pad (Leica 50mm summicron, Velvia 100). Note that all the noise is luminance and none of it is color noise.