[Vendee]

It was a beautiful day when I took this; reduced from 2MB other wise straight from the scanned image CD. Minolta Maxxum 70D, 24-135 Tamron, T-Max 400. The print was gorgeous!

Looks great. You seemed to have nailed the exposure nicely.

[rt22306]

Looks great. You seemed to have nailed the exposure nicely.

T-MAX 400 is a very forgiving film for me, lots of latitude...even the crow that was near the top of one tree was captured.
It captured the shadows well, but the whites (actually, sort of off white) of the buildings didn't wash out. The Maxxum
70D I believe may have been the last film Minolta introduced, so all the goodies they had at their disposal for metering, etc. were plunked into it. I changed positions a couple of times, that view looked good and the camera and film came through. Think it was Aperture Priority at f11, and at 24mm.

[MarinatedHerring]

T-MAX 400 is a very forgiving film for me, lots of latitude...even the crow that was near the top of one tree was captured.
It captured the shadows well, but the whites (actually, sort of off white) of the buildings didn't wash out. The Maxxum
70D I believe may have been the last film Minolta introduced, so all the goodies they had at their disposal for metering, etc. were plunked into it. I changed positions a couple of times, that view looked good and the camera and film came through. Think it was Aperture Priority at f11, and at 24mm.

How do you go about developing it? I'm using the same film. Just developed my second roll ever using D-76 diluted (1:1) for 12.5 minutes. I'm a noob to this but I've never had so much fun with photography! Don't think I'm going to bother with a DSLR now! Pentax Q + my nikkormat ft2 is all i need!

[MarinatedHerring]

nikkormat with 35mm f/2.8

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Last edited by MarinatedHerring; 05-17-2014 at 04:33 PM.

[tuco]

It was a beautiful day when I took this; reduced from 2MB other wise straight from the scanned image CD. Minolta Maxxum 70D, 24-135 Tamron, T-Max 400. The print was gorgeous!

Nice. 400TMY is one of my go-to films too.

[Vendee]

How do you go about developing it? I'm using the same film. Just developed my second roll ever using D-76 diluted (1:1) for 12.5 minutes.

That seems a bit long to me. I develop TMax 400 in D-76 (1+1) for 9.5 minutes as per the MDC. Do the negs look ok?

---------- Post added 03-19-14 at 07:55 PM ----------

The Maxxum
70D I believe may have been the last film Minolta introduced, so all the goodies they had at their disposal for metering, etc. were plunked into it. I changed positions a couple of times, that view looked good and the camera and film came through. Think it was Aperture Priority at f11, and at 24mm.

I know what you mean. I love using my older Pentax SLR's because they are small and light but sometimes its nice to use my modern (big and heavy) Canon EOS 3 with its metering and its 45 point, eye control autofocus system. I know its lazy but I can let the camera make the metering decisions and the autofocus is more accurate than I am with manual focus.

[rt22306]

How do you go about developing it? I'm using the same film. Just developed my second roll ever using D-76 diluted (1:1) for 12.5 minutes. I'm a noob to this but I've never had so much fun with photography! Don't think I'm going to bother with a DSLR now! Pentax Q + my nikkormat ft2 is all i need!

I use commercial labs; this roll (as a bugler plays "Taps") was processed by a now closed Calumet Photo shop in Wash. DC in their in-house lab, with a high res scan. Back in college, I did Tri-X in D-76 and Dektol, but now all film goes out.

---------- Post added 03-19-2014 at 04:22 PM ----------

nikkormat with 35mm f/2.8

Careful now, you may get to love doing your own film so much you put the Q on the shelf....

---------- Post added 03-19-2014 at 04:27 PM ----------

Nice. 400TMY is one of my go-to films too.

I think I may have shot my last BW400CN, but the T-Max will be my fave from here on.
When it warms up and the cherry blossoms bloom in DC, I've plans to shot all film then.
(Well, and my K-5...).

[MarinatedHerring]

That seems a bit long to me. I develop TMax 400 in D-76 (1+1) for 9.5 minutes as per the MDC. Do the negs look ok?

I am new to processing so I wouldn't be able to give you an experienced answer to that. I just followed the directions on the back of the D-76 instructions. I had the powder and the final product was one liter of developer. Here is a link to what I used: Amazon.com: Kodak D-76 Developer Powder, B and W Film 1 Gallon: Camera & Photo

That is the gallon version. It says 9 minutes for full strength. Did I misunderstand the instructions? Please let me know. I posted photos earlier in this thread (1 page back I believe) so maybe you will be able to tell me if it looks over-developed? Thank you!

I use commercial labs; this roll (as a bugler plays "Taps") was processed by a now closed Calumet Photo shop in Wash. DC in their in-house lab, with a high res scan. Back in college, I did Tri-X in D-76 and Dektol, but now all film goes out.

I thought it would be fun to develop on my own and see results instantly. It is cheaper this way since I already have a decent scanner. Once I become more familiar with the camera then I would be fine with putting the money into having it developed and scanned at a professional lab. Sounds like you went the same way! I am also in college now. Hopefully film is still around in the future... I honestly have been happier with the results of film than I have been with any of my digital cameras. Don't get me wrong...I love DSLRs...but there is something special about film that I haven't quite figured out yet. All I know is that I am having more fun than ever with it.

Careful now, you may get to love doing your own film so much you put the Q on the shelf....

Just bought a penguin case to fit both my Nikkormat and Pentax Q. I will have to use the Q for my college research. More reliable since I'm a novice with film! I'll keep posting my photos here. Glad to meet others using film! Hope to learn a lot here.

[tuco]

...I just followed the directions on the back of the D-76 instructions...

That is the gallon version. It says 9 minutes for full strength. Did I misunderstand the instructions?

Yes, 12.5 minutes is correct per page 4 of the old Kodak's D-76 Data Sheet. Note 9.5 minutes is for 100TMX at 1:1.

When reading data sheets for T-Max films, be aware of the date on them. T-Max films changed their formula some years ago. The develop times for D-76 is significantly different for the old 100 T-Max than the new versions. But shows no difference between old and new on T-Max 400. Kodak coded the new 400 T-Max 400TMY-2 but kept the same code on 100TMX and also changed its name from T-Max 100/400 Professional Film to Professional T-Max 100/400 and you can see both of them on page 3 and 4 of that data sheet but . So be aware when reading the D-76 development times for 100TMX if you ever use it.

[Vendee]

I am new to processing so I wouldn't be able to give you an experienced answer to that. I just followed the directions on the back of the D-76 instructions. I had the powder and the final product was one liter of developer. Here is a link to what I used: Amazon.com: Kodak D-76 Developer Powder, B and W Film 1 Gallon: Camera & Photo

That is the gallon version. It says 9 minutes for full strength. Did I misunderstand the instructions? Please let me know. I posted photos earlier in this thread (1 page back I believe) so maybe you will be able to tell me if it looks over-developed? Thank you!

As Tuco has pointed out, that data is for the older version of Tmax 400 which went out of production about 8 years ago. You need to use the data from the current version which can be found here:- www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=13409

That quotes 10.25 minutes at 20 degrees C in D76 1:1.

[MarinatedHerring]

As Tuco has pointed out, that data is for the older version of Tmax 400 which went out of production about 8 years ago. You need to use the data from the current version which can be found here:- www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-path=13409

That quotes 10.25 minutes at 20 degrees C in D76 1:1.

I see. I was very confused. Thank you for the link. Why the developing powder has the times for the older film is beyond me. Do they still produce this older film?

[tuco]

I see. I was very confused. Thank you for the link. Why the developing powder has the times for the older film is beyond me. Do they still produce this older film?

Apparently, there is a discrepancy in Kodak's publications of the development time. And what complicates things even more is that with most developers you adjust your development time 10-15% depending if you have a diffusion/cold light enlarger or a condenser enlarger. The 2007, F-4043 film data sheet linked by Vendee says the development times are for a diffusion/cold light enlarger and to reduce the times 10-15% for a condenser enlarger. And the October 2002, J-78 D-76 data sheet I linked says, as general advise, to also adjust dev time 10-15% for a proper contrast index without reference to any enlarger.

So an e-mail to Kodak asking what's up with that sounds like it's in order because the D-76 packaging looks like it is using the old 2002, J-78 data that I linked. With scanning, 15% or so difference in development time does not mean as much as it use to, IMHO. Back in the wet printing days, you needed to adjust your dev time to achieve a proper contrast index with your enlarger. But with scanning and the figital workflow that is more of a moot point.

[MarinatedHerring]

Apparently, there is a discrepancy in Kodak's publications of the development time. And what complicates things even more is that with most developers you adjust your development time 10-15% depending if you have a diffusion/cold light enlarger or a condenser enlarger. The 2007, F-4043 film data sheet linked by Vendee says the development times are for a diffusion/cold light enlarger and to reduce the times 10-15% for a condenser enlarger. And the October 2002, J-78 D-76 data sheet I linked says, as general advise, to also adjust dev time 10-15% for a proper contrast index without reference to any enlarger.

So an e-mail to Kodak asking what's up with that sounds like it's in order because the D-76 packaging looks like it is using the old 2002, J-78 data that I linked. With scanning, 15% or so difference in development time does not mean as much as it use to, IMHO. Back in the wet printing days, you needed to adjust your dev time to achieve a proper contrast index with your enlarger. But with scanning and the figital workflow that is more of a moot point.

Incredibly helpful. I appreciate it. I am going to try another roll and post back here. In the mean time here is one of an archaeological dig I'm currently part of...
It was quite grainy despite being a well lit photo. I'm thinking my agitation method or probably the fact that I overdeveloped is the cause of the grain. Just a novice guess!

[Swift1]

Toyota Hilux par Daiku San, on ipernity
Zenza Bronica S2
Zenzanon MC 80/2.4
Ilford XP2

[Jamey777]

So my first time using Xtol... I like it! I use Tri-X for interior kid shots and the HC-110 had been a bit harsh on the highlights. In the Pakon 135 Facebook group I saw a bunch of folks pushing Tri-X 1600 with Xtol and I think I may switch... This is MZ-S FA 77 Tri-X 400 @800 Xtol 1:1 10:00