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01-06-2012, 10:57 AM - 1 Like   #286
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Porst OC, 50mm F2, Tmax 400, D76 1:1, 20 Grad, 12 min, Epson V500


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01-06-2012, 05:20 PM   #287
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Ilford HP5 Plus, Pentax KM/M24-35 F3.5, Dark Yellow Filter, Lab Processing and low res scans.







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01-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #288
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Rock with Glacial Striations, Great Slave Lake, 1985. Shot with a Yashica Mat 124G on Agfapan 100.

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01-09-2012, 11:48 AM   #289
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They were either shot with a MX or K1000

01-09-2012, 12:15 PM   #290
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Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63
01-09-2012, 01:46 PM   #291
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QuoteOriginally posted by Macario Quote

They were either shot with a MX or K1000
Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast?

QuoteOriginally posted by chubasco Quote

Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63
Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale.
01-09-2012, 02:44 PM   #292
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Tuco, from my side, thanks, way too generous. I'm trying not to put you in my little black book of envy over
the Mamiya 7 II, but your pictures aren't helping. Your results with the Pyro PMK are ummm, purdy guud!
01-09-2012, 03:46 PM   #293
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast?



Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale.
I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch

01-10-2012, 02:55 AM   #294
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QuoteOriginally posted by Macario Quote
I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch
Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it!
01-10-2012, 08:08 AM   #295
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QuoteOriginally posted by MattC Quote
Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it!
My experience is that it depends on the light. Acros has a fairly high sensitivity to blue light and is a little weak on the red end. On a recent roll, those frames taken in strong, full-spectrum light have great snap and tonality (nice combination). Those taken in the deep shade on the same day are a little dull looking. This is not unusual (duh), but I think it is particularly true for Acros.

A yellow filter as a routine might be a good idea.


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01-10-2012, 12:36 PM   #296
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I am so used to the overexposing part, that most of the times I forget to put a filter on, even though I have the yellow orange and red always with me
01-10-2012, 07:30 PM - 1 Like   #297
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Roughing it in the Arctic, 1971. Taron rangefinder, Plus-X

This was for real- spring sunshine reflecting off snow made things very pleasant. I'm kind of laid up right now so I'm working on old stuff for entertainment.

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01-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #298
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QuoteOriginally posted by John Poirier Quote
Roughing it in the Arctic, 1971.... I'm working on old stuff for entertainment.
Talk about getting behind on the scanning! That a pretty neat shot.
01-11-2012, 12:42 AM   #299
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QuoteOriginally posted by Macario Quote
...
What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so.
...
I don't know if you read my last message but I responded to the wrong comment. It probably didn't make much sense.

A 1/3 stop is about right for speed loss with many developers it seems. I was trying to say before that you could probably just shoot at box speed but if you can just dial it in on the camera's meter, sure, why not.

It seems Rodinal 1+50 using an agitation profile per the instructions that come with it can get you a pretty dense negative if you've haven't experimented with that.
01-11-2012, 02:52 PM   #300
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I just set the ISO at 64 and shoot.
Never used rodinal. Always a local developer (amaloco). Which does give a nice fine grain to Acros (which i then mess up with due to higher contrast printing )
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