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10-10-2014, 12:54 PM   #3301
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QuoteOriginally posted by revdocjim Quote
Last night I finally got to try out my newly acquired Mod 54. It's a film holder that fits in a standard Paterson system 4 tank and it holds six sheets of 4x5 large format film.
Cool

I use a Unicolor paper drum for my 4x5s and it works well, but the Mod 54 has intrigued me. I take it that you feel it is worth the money?


Steve

---------- Post added 10-10-14 at 12:54 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I don't understand how applying color balance gets only blue in the sky and green in the grass. Perhaps you can explain that to me.
Split toning?


Steve

10-10-2014, 12:59 PM   #3302
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
I don't understand how applying color balance gets only blue in the sky and green in the grass. Perhaps you can explain that to me.

Below is a a pyro stained BW negative scanned in color. It just gives me a bronze look.
First let me say, that your shot is gorgeous! That is very nice!

As for the color balance, yes. I use Gimp, and the color balance tool allows me to select the range of balance to change, highlight, midtone and shadow.
For the midtone I increased the blue and cyan, which colorized the sky. Then for highlight, I used a slight magenta. For shadows, I think I used green and a hint of blue maybe.
In any case, the RGB structure of the color scan, and the ability to choose the range of color balance applied makes it work.
Also, having the photo that clearly has delimiting tones in those ranges would be required.
I don't know if other processing software allows that range choice. Hope that helps!

Last edited by 45 Mike; 10-10-2014 at 01:05 PM. Reason: incorrect info
10-10-2014, 01:00 PM   #3303
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
C

Split toning?
Steve
Nope. The gray tone in, say, the sky might be the same as the gray in some of the grass. How does blue and green know to stick only to these locations. I like the effect though.

---------- Post added 10-10-14 at 13:03 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
First let me say, that your shot is gorgeous! That is very nice!

As for the color balance, yes. I use Gimp, and the color balance tool allows me to select the range of balance to change, highlight, midtone and shadow.
For the highlight I increased the blue and cyan, which colorized the sky. Then for midtone, I increased green and a bit of blue. For shadows, I think I used a bit of magenta or red.
In any case, the RGB structure of the color scan, and the ability to choose the range of color balance applied makes it work.
I don't know if other processing software allows that range choice. Hope that helps!
Thanks.
10-10-2014, 01:08 PM   #3304
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Nope. The gray tone in, say, the sky might be the same as the gray in some of the grass. How does blue and green know to stick only to these locations. I like the effect though.
Thanks.
I have tried this on several shots, and sometimes the tonal ranges do not give clear delimits on the subject, and I end up with green sky, or purple hair. Serendipity when it works.

This is the original b/w scan, (scaled) that you can play with if you want. You can see why I chose this one to play with, fairly unspectacular as it is.




Last edited by 45 Mike; 10-10-2014 at 01:18 PM. Reason: added photo
10-10-2014, 01:59 PM   #3305
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QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
I have tried this on several shots, and sometimes the tonal ranges do not give clear delimits on the subject, and I end up with green sky, or purple hair. Serendipity when it works.

This is the original b/w scan, (scaled) that you can play with if you want. You can see why I chose this one to play with, fairly unspectacular as it is.
The BW version is really nice too. The cloud detail is really good. Perhaps better than the colored version.
10-10-2014, 02:14 PM   #3306
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
The BW version is really nice too. The cloud detail is really good. Perhaps better than the colored version.
Thanks. I was testing a yellow filter against a green filter. Fairly certain this was the green filter shot.
10-11-2014, 07:04 AM   #3307
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Cool

I use a Unicolor paper drum for my 4x5s and it works well, but the Mod 54 has intrigued me. I take it that you feel it is worth the money?


Steve

---------- Post added 10-10-14 at 12:54 PM ----------



Split toning?


Steve
I don't have a dark room so I was willing to spend a little money just for the freedom of home developing 4x5. In the end I found the Mod54 to be reasonably priced and readily available. Upon using it for the first time I found it pretty straightforward and easy to use. I practiced loading a few times with dummy negatives and it really isn't bad.
10-11-2014, 12:21 PM   #3308
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Guys I need your help, I retook in hands my soviet rangefinders (in this case a Leningrad) after a long time of strict SLR observance. I'm not that satisfied of the results, the shots on SLRs look sharper to me, I don't understand if it's a focus problem, the lenses that are too soft or if I simply suck with RFs. Few samples from the last roll:

















10-11-2014, 05:52 PM   #3309
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QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
...Fairly certain this was the green filter shot.
My vote is for the yellow being used. Green and blue are analogous colors. To darken a blue sky you typically need a color filter opposite of blue found in the color analogy of yellow, orange and red I suspect.
10-11-2014, 06:13 PM   #3310
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
My vote is for the yellow being used. Green and blue are analogous colors. To darken a blue sky you typically need a color filter opposite of blue found in the color analogy of yellow, orange and red I suspect.
I only have a yellow and a green filter for the Yashica TLR. I know I shot this scene with both green and yellow, and my notes indicate that I used the green filter then I used the yellow filter. Looking at the raw scans, I cannot see a difference. I know the green filter got a stop more light. All I can go by is frame numbers as scanned, which puts the one I used the first frame, with a green filter.
From my reading, a green filter creates an effective blue sky filter, and also lends a ruddy tone to skin, with a one stop loss. A yellow filter does not seem to affect skin tones much, and at only a half stop loss.

I would like to find or make a set of green and yellow filters for my Franka Rolfix II. I do not want the push on style, as they will not let the cover to latch closed. I am about to order a set of Cokin style filters, and I will try to cut them into circles that will fit inside the existing lens ring.
10-11-2014, 07:09 PM   #3311
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
Guys I need your help, I retook in hands my soviet rangefinders (in this case a Leningrad) after a long time of strict SLR observance. I'm not that satisfied of the results, the shots on SLRs look sharper to me, I don't understand if it's a focus problem, the lenses that are too soft or if I simply suck with RFs. Few samples from the last roll:














The shots are fine, but compared to your "K" Series lenses will seem softer.

Phil.
10-13-2014, 08:59 PM   #3312
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
Guys I need your help, I retook in hands my soviet rangefinders (in this case a Leningrad) after a long time of strict SLR observance. I'm not that satisfied of the results, the shots on SLRs look sharper to me, I don't understand if it's a focus problem, the lenses that are too soft or if I simply suck with RFs. Few samples from the last roll:

What lens were you shooting with and at what apertures? Also, what version Leningrad are you shooting. I have generally gotten good results with my FSU rangefinders, but am very confident of the lenses. Your result remind me of those I got from the Industar 26* that came with my FED 2. It is soft and suffers from very low contrast. I now shoot with either a Jupiter-8 or Jupiter-12 and get great results.


Steve

* The lens says Industar 61 on the front, but the appearance is more typical of the I-26. I think it may be intermediate.
10-14-2014, 01:16 AM   #3313
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
What lens were you shooting with and at what apertures? Also, what version Leningrad are you shooting. I have generally gotten good results with my FSU rangefinders, but am very confident of the lenses. Your result remind me of those I got from the Industar 26* that came with my FED 2. It is soft and suffers from very low contrast. I now shoot with either a Jupiter-8 or Jupiter-12 and get great results.


Steve

* The lens says Industar 61 on the front, but the appearance is more typical of the I-26. I think it may be intermediate.
Well, of the Leningrad there is just one version, it's a relatively rare camera and yes there are different versions but they are mainly cosmetic. A friend o'mine from another board repaired the rangefinder and we went to test the camera in a park in Wolverhampton, here you can see the fabulous (and crazy) rangefinder mechanicanism, probably the best of any FSU camera:

Thoughts on the Leningrad. - Rangefinderforum.com

I shot all this BW400CN film with a 1961 Jupiter 8 at f5.6, 1/250 besides small adjustments for close range and other usual situations (shooting against the sun etc...), I assume the problem is that the lens is a little foggy or scratched, like most of the soviet equipment these lenses are as good as they are kept and serviced, if you get a well preserved lens they are sharp if one in poor conditions they become soft.

I assume your I-61 is like this one:

INDUSTAR-N-61 FED 2.8/52 Soviet Russian USSR Lens for FED Zorki LEICA LTM | eBay

That's a first series 61 with brushed aluminium barrel like the 26M, generally speaking Tessar-like Industars are supposed to be sharper than Sonnar design Jupiter lenses, I assume yours is old and has the same problem as this Jupiter 8, later Industars have six blades and a different coating, they are supposed to be the sharpest rangefinder lenses ever produced in the USSR. On the other side I've also a Jupiter 12 (clone of the legendary pre-war Biogon 35 mm f2.8, but with good coating) that is sharper than my Leitz Summaron on my Leica M3 (and I have two pics that prove that, same subject, one with the Summaron the other with the Jupiter).

QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
The shots are fine, but compared to your "K" Series lenses will seem softer.

Phil.
Some people say it's the lab, some people say the pics are overexposed, some people say it's the bad light of the day (Wolves)...however this a a pic taken last year with the Jupiter 12 and my M3, since then I improved as photographer but the result is different:

10-14-2014, 08:12 AM   #3314
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QuoteOriginally posted by 45 Mike Quote
...
From my reading, a green filter creates an effective blue sky filter, and also lends a ruddy tone to skin, with a one stop loss.
Are you aware a colored filter darkens the opposite color and lighten its own color?

So, by knowing that, green will not darken blue very much if at all because it is not an opposite color. Maybe an orange-red sky at sunrise/sunset is what you are reading. The only reason your sky is perhaps dark might be because the sky was placed closer to your middle gray exposure ( notice the low value of the grass). The filter factor for green is typically 6 which is around 2.5 stops of exposure you need to add.

Green is not very good for skin, IMHO. Perhaps someone young with good skin. But red lipstick will end up black with a gothic look. Yellow-green filters have been made for portraits. They darken red just about right.

Here this gal was wearing a bright red Halloween costume and asked me to take a picture of it. I used a yellow-green for the job. I like the tone it produces. A geen would have made it black.

400TMY, YG Filter




Last edited by tuco; 10-14-2014 at 09:07 AM.
10-14-2014, 10:51 AM   #3315
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
Well, of the Leningrad there is just one version
Soviet and Russian Cameras - Leningrad Lots of variants

You are probably right in regards to the lens being the cause of the softness and low contrast.
I have two Jupiter-8 in LTM. Both are last-series (all black) and produce good results, but that means little in the world of FSU optics. My I-61 is sort of a half-panda:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/28796087@N02/5251767737


Steve

---------- Post added 10-14-14 at 10:54 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Green is not very good for skin, IMHO. Perhaps someone young with good skin. But red lipstick will end up black with a gothic look.
And freckles/blemishes go dark, very dark!!!


Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 10-14-2014 at 11:26 AM.
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