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10-25-2018, 04:26 AM - 12 Likes   #7696
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I do like the Sonnar 150/4!




I see it's time for some new fixer - those stripes are a peculiarity of underfixing XP2 after HC-110 development. They happen if you use standard dilution fixer, so I make mine a bit more concentrated. 5 minutes for the first 20 films and 10 minutes for the final ten films. This was film #26 and had ten minutes but I guess I can refix it if I want. Oh, they are arranged vertically as this was done in a motorised Rondinax 60.

10-25-2018, 04:37 AM - 5 Likes   #7697
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Geometric lines and shadows
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View Picture EXIF
Scan Dual IV  Photo 
10-25-2018, 10:36 AM   #7698
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QuoteOriginally posted by drmoss_ca Quote
500c, XP2, 80/2.8 plus ext. tube, HC-110, X1:
Cool. I have a friend who designs and builds his own speakers and tube amps. Apparently if you take you own driver measurements instead of relying on the posted specs and keep re-tweaking your crossover circuit to improve/refine the speakers response curve, you can make a darn good set of speakers out of inexpensive drivers.

Last edited by tuco; 10-25-2018 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Sp
10-26-2018, 10:03 AM - 6 Likes   #7699
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500cm, Distagon 50, XP2, HC-110, X1 scan:




10-26-2018, 05:48 PM - 1 Like   #7700
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QuoteOriginally posted by drmoss_ca Quote
I do like the Sonnar 150/4!
I like that lens too. Oh, man, that picture is how I feel about now.
10-27-2018, 05:53 AM - 8 Likes   #7701
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Experiments with Sunny 16 - I have various cameras without light meters (not fitted, broken or use weird batteries) and I'm trying to improve my Sunny 16 shooting. After wandering around with my LX for a while I took the batteries out (not ideal as it leaves me with only 1/75-1/2000 shutter speeds) for the last dozen shots on the roll. The aim was usable negatives and not perfection, out of 13 shots only two were under-exposed (both shot in deep shadows - so that's one thing I need to improve).

Two of the best compositions: LX, M40/2.8 Pancake, Ilford FP4+:





John.
10-27-2018, 06:23 AM - 5 Likes   #7702
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Believe it or not, this used to be my office, but probably does more for the health of the population in its current incarnation!




Which leaves me free to concentrate on straight razors and film:




10-27-2018, 06:40 AM   #7703
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QuoteOriginally posted by drmoss_ca Quote
Believe it or not, this used to be my office, but probably does more for the health of the population in its current incarnation!




Which leaves me free to concentrate on straight razors and film:


Very nice shot. Is that a Hasselblad 500C I see?
10-27-2018, 08:00 AM   #7704
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QuoteOriginally posted by macabee Quote
Very nice shot. Is that a Hasselblad 500C I see?
Yes, it is, though the one above it was taken with a 500c/m.
10-27-2018, 12:02 PM   #7705
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QuoteOriginally posted by johnha Quote
Experiments with Sunny 16 ... out of 13 shots only two were under-exposed (both shot in deep shadows - so that's one thing I need to improve).
Good deal. Are you adjusting the Sunny 16 Rule for time of year? You need to tune that rule for your geographical area especially at higher latitudes. I'll use my one-degree spot meter to measure some shadows in the summer and then compare to fall/winter and formulate an adjustment rule kind of thing. Similarly for the time of day.
10-27-2018, 05:51 PM   #7706
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
Good deal. Are you adjusting the Sunny 16 Rule for time of year? You need to tune that rule for your geographical area especially at higher latitudes. I'll use my one-degree spot meter to measure some shadows in the summer and then compare to fall/winter and formulate an adjustment rule kind of thing. Similarly for the time of day.
I haven't got that far yet, I'm compensating for time of day in the last couple of hours before dusk. Of the two that didn't work, one was towards a low sun which threw me off, the other was the bridge arches from the other (shadow) side of the bridge (these were more gloomy than I'd expected).

I'm using a two step process:
1) Estimate the aperture depending on how sunny it is (strength & length of shadows).
2) Estimate whether a correction is needed for full-sun-lit, overcast, side-lit, back-lit or in-shadow/deep-shadow etc.

I'm hoping that concentrating more when I'm using a meter will tune things a bit better - but it certainly makes you think more about exposure and lighting.

Last edited by johnha; 10-27-2018 at 05:51 PM. Reason: tpyo
10-28-2018, 06:10 AM - 8 Likes   #7707
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500cm, Distagon 50, XP2, HC-110, X1 scan:


10-28-2018, 10:11 AM - 7 Likes   #7708
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More MF film fun from my outing at Montmorillon, France ... a Semflex TLR with a Berthiot 75/3.5 taking lens using Delta 400 and home developed in LC29 ... the roll had been in the camera forever, so I decided to finish it. A fun experience with the hand-held meter and I screwed up once in taking a double exposure ... it was not on purpose. (xpost from MF thread)




10-28-2018, 01:38 PM - 2 Likes   #7709
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500c/m, Sonnar 150, one strobe, XP2 Super, HC-110, X1 scan:


10-28-2018, 07:12 PM - 2 Likes   #7710
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One from Ribchester, UK - shot some time ago: LX, FA43, FP4+:

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