[tuco]

In my experience all the lab scans I have done come back as colour images, no matter what film.

If I have my scanning software set to a negative color image in lieu of a BW option when scanning a BW negative, I will get a colored monochrome instead of a gray scale. I'd suspect there is no manual intervention at these labs. But I dunno.

[Cuthbert]

Pentax KX, Helios 44K, Xp2.

[dsmithhfx]

Pentax KX, Helios 44K, Xp2.

"44K"

Now that's a loooong lens!

[dsmithhfx]

If I have my scanning software set to a negative color image in lieu of a BW option when scanning a BW negative, I will get a colored monochrome instead of a gray scale. I'd suspect there is no manual intervention at these labs. But I dunno.

I actually convert my 16-bit grayscale v600 scans to 8-bit RGB in CS6 for final post (some GIMP filters don't work/well in grayscale, e.g. noise and high-pass).

[g026r]

There's not a whole lot of info around concerning pushing Efke, and I'm not certain I'd recommend it. In this case, it was just what I happened to have available.

Regardless of speed, Efke remains a dust magnet. The clone/healing tool had been used so often on this that Lightroom slowed to a crawl.




Canon F-1.
Canon new FD 70-210mm f4.
Efke KB100 at 400.

[goddo31]

In my experience all the lab scans I have done come back as colour images, no matter what film. Just had a roll of Ilford Delta 100 and one of HP5+ returned to me, all the scans in colour (although well enough scanned that they look BW). What they are very poor at is setting a good black point and white point. Usually the histogram of the scan uses only 3/4 of the range of tones at best. Sadly, this seems to be true of every lab I try. If setting-up the Epson V750 wasn't such a pfaff (due to space restrictions), I'd scan everything myself.

---------- Post added 06-27-19 at 08:17 PM ----------


The smallest cemetery? par Kris Lockyear, on ipernity

Yashica Mat 124G (recently returned from a service), Ilford Delta 100 film.

Oh, that is a pity. I admit that I haven't purchased any lab scans for some years although I might need to do so. It's a real pity that those labs couldn't do a better job and yes the V700 that I use sure takes up a lot of desk space.

---------- Post added 06-28-19 at 12:27 PM ----------

There's not a whole lot of info around concerning pushing Efke, and I'm not certain I'd recommend it. In this case, it was just what I happened to have available.

Regardless of speed, Efke remains a dust magnet. The clone/healing tool had been used so often on this that Lightroom slowed to a crawl.


Canon F-1.
Canon new FD 70-210mm f4.
Efke KB100 at 400.

You seem to have done a good job at it, nice work!

[longbow]

First photos from the KX I replaced the meter in and CLA'd - HP5+@1600, orange filter & K 30mm f2.8

[tuco]

There's not a whole lot of info around concerning pushing Efke, and I'm not certain I'd recommend it. In this case, it was just what I happened to have available.

Pushing moves the dark areas up in value much less than the bright area values. That is, if you over develop the film enough to move your highlight placement up say one stop, you will only move your dark shadows up say 1/3 of a stop or so. Your subject face looks like it was placed pretty low like around zone II to III in the exposure. So, yeah, that's tough one to not make it look like a silhouette. I hear you on LR's spot healing tool. It was not made to handle a dusty negative.

[tuco]

I actually convert my 16-bit grayscale v600 scans to 8-bit RGB in CS6 for final post (some GIMP filters don't work/well in grayscale, e.g. noise and high-pass).

Doesn't GIMP finally support 16-bit per channel color? I used it many years ago but moved to a proprietary solution to get 16-bit color/grayscale. But now with this rental concept, I looking to move back or get something else.

[dsmithhfx]

Doesn't GIMP finally support 16-bit per channel color? I used it many years ago but moved to a proprietary solution to get 16-bit color/grayscale. But now with this rental concept, I looking to move back or get something else.

I think maybe the most recent release does. I use the Fedora distro rpm (2.8).

[Heebie]

TwoUptons is correct; the scan should be done as greyscale, thus eliminating any colour cast. In my opinion the lab should have done that for you. However it is easy to do in software once you have the scanned images.

I don't agree with that myself. XP2 and Kodak CN-400 are "color process black & white film" They are actually color film, but the amount of color information captured is VERY small.
But.. if you scan in color, and manually control the sensitivity and expand out the histogram for each color as much as possible, you get a lot more information.. and from that you can then use a mixdown layer to very carefully blend the color information into the monochrome. Because each color has very different sensitivity, some will have better shadow detail, some better highlight detail, and some better mid-level detail, so this "mixing" process can give you fantastic control over the levels of detail on the final "mixed down" black & white. It's a lot like being able to blend 3 copies of the same photo, one taken with a red filter, one with a green filter, and one with a blue filter. (or, one with a cyan filter, one with a magenta filter, and one with a yellow filter.. with a little photoshop-fu, you could mix & match all 6 of those, and with some masking only allow certain layers to affect it etc..)

When it comes to scanning, especially where the data set might be limited to shades, to get as much control over the conversion process as possible.

If I'm going to do a sepia, I do that after I'm happy with my mixed-down greyscale, using a hue/saturation layer, ticking the "colorize" box, and then tweaking the color to my liking.

[g026r]

Your subject face looks like it was placed pretty low like around zone II to III in the exposure. So, yeah, that's tough one to not make it look like a silhouette.

Yeah. I was making a guess as to how much to adjust the exposure, since I didn't really have any way to meter properly, and definitely didn't quite get it right.

[longbow]

K2 , M 24-35 f3.5 & Delta 400 @ 800

[goatsNdonkey]

Expired Tri-X, exposed at iso250, with standard development
Canon AF35M auto-exposure, auto-focus point-n-shoot with f/2.8 38mm lens
Developing and scans by Old School Photo Lab, slight pp of scan files by me

[mtux]

APX 400 on ME Super