Post your B&W Film shots

Sinister · 01-06-2012, 10:57 AM - **1 Like**

Porst OC, 50mm F2, Tmax 400, D76 1:1, 20 Grad, 12 min, Epson V500

Lightsource von Ineound auf Flickr

**gofour3** · 01-06-2012, 05:20 PM - **1 Like**

Ilford HP5 Plus, Pentax KM/M24-35 F3.5, Dark Yellow Filter, Lab Processing and low res scans.

Phil.

John Poirier · 01-08-2012, 05:38 PM

Rock with Glacial Striations, Great Slave Lake, 1985. Shot with a Yashica Mat 124G on Agfapan 100.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/attachments/8-film-slrs-compact-film-cameras/113958d1326069233-post-your-b-w-film-shots-85-03-n-003.jpg

Macario · 01-09-2012, 11:48 AM

They were either shot with a MX or K1000

chubasco · 01-09-2012, 12:15 PM

Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63

tuco · 01-09-2012, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by Macario

They were either shot with a MX or K1000

Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast?

Originally posted by chubasco

Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63

Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale.

chubasco · 01-09-2012, 02:44 PM

Tuco, from my side, thanks, way too generous. I'm trying not to put you in my little black book of envy over
the Mamiya 7 II, but your pictures aren't helping.

Your results with the Pyro PMK are ummm, purdy guud!

Macario · 01-09-2012, 03:46 PM

Originally posted by tuco

Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast?

Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale.

I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch

MattC · 01-10-2012, 02:55 AM

Originally posted by Macario

I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch

Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it!

stevebrot · 01-10-2012, 08:08 AM

Originally posted by MattC

Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it!

My experience is that it depends on the light. Acros has a fairly high sensitivity to blue light and is a little weak on the red end. On a recent roll, those frames taken in strong, full-spectrum light have great snap and tonality (nice combination). Those taken in the deep shade on the same day are a little dull looking. This is not unusual (duh), but I think it is particularly true for Acros.

A yellow filter as a routine might be a good idea.

Steve

Macario · 01-10-2012, 12:36 PM

I am so used to the overexposing part, that most of the times I forget to put a filter on, even though I have the yellow orange and red always with me

John Poirier · 01-10-2012, 07:30 PM - **1 Like**

Roughing it in the Arctic, 1971. Taron rangefinder, Plus-X

This was for real- spring sunshine reflecting off snow made things very pleasant. I'm kind of laid up right now so I'm working on old stuff for entertainment.

https://themotec1.netfirms.com/Users/Hosted/cdn/images/pentaxforums/attach/jpg.gif

tuco · 01-10-2012, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by John Poirier

Roughing it in the Arctic, 1971.... I'm working on old stuff for entertainment.

Talk about getting behind on the scanning!

That a pretty neat shot.

tuco · 01-11-2012, 12:42 AM

Originally posted by Macario

...
What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so.
...

I don't know if you read my last message but I responded to the wrong comment. It probably didn't make much sense.

A 1/3 stop is about right for speed loss with many developers it seems. I was trying to say before that you could probably just shoot at box speed but if you can just dial it in on the camera's meter, sure, why not.

It seems Rodinal 1+50 using an agitation profile per the instructions that come with it can get you a pretty dense negative if you've haven't experimented with that.

Macario · 01-11-2012, 02:52 PM

I just set the ISO at 64 and shoot.
Never used rodinal. Always a local developer (amaloco). Which does give a nice fine grain to Acros (which i then mess up with due to higher contrast printing

)

01-08-2012, 05:38 PM	#288
John Poirier Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Gabriola Island Posts: 619	Rock with Glacial Striations, Great Slave Lake, 1985. Shot with a Yashica Mat 124G on Agfapan 100. https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/attachments/8-film-slrs-compact-film-cameras/113958d1326069233-post-your-b-w-film-shots-85-03-n-003.jpg Attached Images

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01-06-2012, 10:57 AM - 1 Like	#286
Sinister Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Berlin Posts: 1,045	Porst OC, 50mm F2, Tmax 400, D76 1:1, 20 Grad, 12 min, Epson V500 Lightsource von Ineound auf Flickr

01-06-2012, 05:20 PM - 1 Like	#287
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Ilford HP5 Plus, Pentax KM/M24-35 F3.5, Dark Yellow Filter, Lab Processing and low res scans. Phil.

01-09-2012, 11:48 AM	#289
Macario Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Hoek van Holland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,393	They were either shot with a MX or K1000

01-09-2012, 12:15 PM	#290
chubasco Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Alabama Photos: Gallery Posts: 328	Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63

01-09-2012, 01:46 PM	#291
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,027	Originally posted by Macario They were either shot with a MX or K1000 Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast? Originally posted by chubasco Mamiyaflex C2, old chrome 2.8/80 Sekor lens, TMAX 400, HC-110, 1:63 Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale.

01-09-2012, 02:44 PM	#292
chubasco Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Alabama Photos: Gallery Posts: 328	Tuco, from my side, thanks, way too generous. I'm trying not to put you in my little black book of envy over the Mamiya 7 II, but your pictures aren't helping. Your results with the Pyro PMK are ummm, purdy guud!

01-09-2012, 03:46 PM	#293
Macario Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Hoek van Holland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,393	Originally posted by tuco Creating abstracts looks like a fun and challenging to shoot. I've really never done much of that. Do you have any special film/developing methods you employ to help achieve the high contrast? Really great atmosphere in that place. Your results have a nice tonal scale. I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch

01-10-2012, 02:55 AM	#294
MattC Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Adelaide, Australia Posts: 268	Originally posted by Macario I think these were shot with Acros `100 ( I have to check to be sure, other wise it was neopan 400). What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. As when developed normally, the acros is pretty gray. Very nice for portraits, but for contrast can lack some punch. And when I did it in the darroom, I mostly did do a split contrast print. Low conrtast to get a bit of detail , then grade 4 or 5 (depending on neg) for the real punch Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it!

01-10-2012, 08:08 AM	#295
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by MattC Really? My experience with Acros is the complete opposite - I find it reasonably contrasty - just the way I like it! My experience is that it depends on the light. Acros has a fairly high sensitivity to blue light and is a little weak on the red end. On a recent roll, those frames taken in strong, full-spectrum light have great snap and tonality (nice combination). Those taken in the deep shade on the same day are a little dull looking. This is not unusual (duh), but I think it is particularly true for Acros. A yellow filter as a routine might be a good idea. Steve

01-10-2012, 12:36 PM	#296
Macario Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Hoek van Holland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,393	I am so used to the overexposing part, that most of the times I forget to put a filter on, even though I have the yellow orange and red always with me

01-10-2012, 08:24 PM	#298
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,027	Originally posted by John Poirier Roughing it in the Arctic, 1971.... I'm working on old stuff for entertainment. Talk about getting behind on the scanning! That a pretty neat shot.

01-11-2012, 12:42 AM	#299
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,027	Originally posted by Macario ... What i mostly do is when shooting mostly abstracts, is over expsoe it by 1/3, and then stretch the development time by 5% or so. ... I don't know if you read my last message but I responded to the wrong comment. It probably didn't make much sense. A 1/3 stop is about right for speed loss with many developers it seems. I was trying to say before that you could probably just shoot at box speed but if you can just dial it in on the camera's meter, sure, why not. It seems Rodinal 1+50 using an agitation profile per the instructions that come with it can get you a pretty dense negative if you've haven't experimented with that.

01-11-2012, 02:52 PM	#300
Macario Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Hoek van Holland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,393	I just set the ISO at 64 and shoot. Never used rodinal. Always a local developer (amaloco). Which does give a nice fine grain to Acros (which i then mess up with due to higher contrast printing )