Post your B&W Film shots

wuzet · 08-26-2013, 04:37 PM

PZ-1P, FA*24/2, Tri-X 400, Pyrocat HD

jakeblues · 08-27-2013, 10:15 PM

Here are some recent ones. ME Super, Tri-X pushed to 800, K 35 3.5.

**arnold** · 08-27-2013, 10:47 PM

Here are some from quite recent to olden days. The scene at the table against the window back-light was a challenge for my first roll through a Franka Rolfix folding camera. It has an f4.5 schneider Radionar lens. I had to do some PP as I had not used a flash.
The remainder were taken in 1961 with a Kodak Retinette with a f3.5 Sneider Reomar lens. It too is a three element lens.

**gofour3** · 08-29-2013, 05:23 PM - **1 Like**

Some Rollei Retro 80S shots. (KX & K15/3.5 and K35/3.5)

Phil.

Nuff · 08-29-2013, 06:50 PM

I like rollei retro 80s, but it looks like it has been developed for too long and you have blown highlights (it can be very tricky).
Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle.
It took me 3-4 rolls to get the results I like.

**gofour3** · 08-29-2013, 07:23 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

I like rollei retro 80s, but it looks like it has been developed for too long and you have blown highlights (it can be very tricky).
Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle.
It took me 3-4 rolls to get the results I like.

It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault.

First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Phil.

tuco · 08-29-2013, 07:38 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

...
Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle.

The agitation profile is a function of the developer and not the brand of film. Gentle/vigorous agitation slows down/speeds up the film for a given development time. Use development time to control it and follow the manufactures recommended agitation profile.

Nuff · 08-29-2013, 09:52 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault.

First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Phil.

Well, if they used the official numbers, that's what they did wrong. I'm pretty sure the boats will look black on the negative. The official times are too long...

stevebrot · 08-29-2013, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault.

First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Phil.

I have shot it a little and actually picked up a 100' roll. My initial rolls I developed in Edwal FG-7 1+15, though I don't recall the times. As mentioned above, gentle agitation helps temper the contrast. There is a white paper on the film (LINK, pdf) that recommends HC-110 dilution H* for 11 minutes at 24C (rate at EI 160). I have a roll waiting for processing and will let you all know how the HC-110 works.

A few photos...Rollei Retro 80s - a set on Flickr

The extended red sensitivity is its unusual characteristic. With appropriate filters it can be used for IR photography. Also good for nudes and portraiture and landscape.

Steve

* http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

stevebrot · 08-29-2013, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

Well, if they used the official numbers

What official numbers? There are entries on the Massive Dev Chart (B&W Film Developing Times | The Massive Dev Chart), but I have had poor luck with their numbers with other films.

Steve

tuco · 08-29-2013, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

Well, if they used the official numbers, that's what they did wrong. I'm pretty sure the boats will look black on the negative. The official times are too long...

Curious, how do you know what developer his lab used?

tuco · 08-29-2013, 10:33 PM

You can speed up/slow down your film through your exposure index. IMHO, that is better than playing with the agitation profile. Of course many developers are more tolerant to how gentle/vigorous you agitate than others. My PMK Pyro I often use, for example, is very sensitive to streaking and non-uniform development if you don't shake it enough. It's that way all the films I have used and I assume Retro 80 would be no exception.

**gofour3** · 08-29-2013, 10:50 PM

Thanks for the Retro 80S tips guys. I'll rescan a couple negatives with my home scanner to rule out scanning. I have one roll left and may try another lab for processing.

Phil.

tuco · 08-29-2013, 11:00 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

Thanks for the Retro 80S tips guys. I'll rescan a couple negatives with my home scanner to rule out scanning. I have one roll left and may try another lab for processing.

Phil.

I dunno, Phil, your first shot there with the boats looks pretty good both in tonal scale and contrast on my monitor. I think any further adjustments would be a matter of personal taste.

Nuff · 08-30-2013, 12:07 AM

Originally posted by tuco

Curious, how do you know what developer his lab used?

I don't know which developer, but the times specified for rr80s for any developer are too long according to post by people from various sources.

For me the times in Rodinal and Xtol (replenished) were both too long. The xtol times

My xtol replenished times are usually between 1:1 and 1:2 mix on the official xtol data.

Here's the official data for rr80s Rollei RETRO 80S TWIN 2x 135-36
Massive dev chart: B&W Film Developing Times | The Massive Dev Chart

Similar data for 1:1 and 1:2 mixes.

From my experimenting I've arrived at my mix being 7min at 20C (I use 1:2 times for other films). That's 36% shorter time, even if I go by 1:1 times, that's 18% shorter times.
The photos look like the results I used to get with the official times.

Here's couple with my photos with the shorter dev time (i've posted them before):

08-29-2013, 09:53 PM	#2244
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by gofour3 It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault. First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try. Phil. I have shot it a little and actually picked up a 100' roll. My initial rolls I developed in Edwal FG-7 1+15, though I don't recall the times. As mentioned above, gentle agitation helps temper the contrast. There is a white paper on the film (LINK, pdf) that recommends HC-110 dilution H* for 11 minutes at 24C (rate at EI 160). I have a roll waiting for processing and will let you all know how the HC-110 works. A few photos...Rollei Retro 80s - a set on Flickr The extended red sensitivity is its unusual characteristic. With appropriate filters it can be used for IR photography. Also good for nudes and portraiture and landscape. Steve * http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ Last edited by stevebrot; 08-29-2013 at 09:59 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
58mm Lens Club - Bring your Biotar, your Helios, your Tak 58mm... bring 'em all!	pepperberry farm	Lens Clubs	310	04-14-2024 06:43 AM
Post-Processing The Film Emulation Challenge - Post your Digital Pictures with that Film look	ChristianRock	Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories	22	07-14-2023 10:20 AM
I'd Print and Hang This - Your Best Film Shots	Eyewanders	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	102	01-09-2020 01:36 PM
Old tech shootout: your MX-1 vs your phone. Is your MX-1 still holding it's own?	MD Optofonik	Pentax Compact Cameras	7	05-16-2019 07:40 PM
Photo Story Time documents: Show me your genre study, your reportage, your photo story... etc.	christophleipzig	Mini-Challenges, Games, and Photo Stories	11	10-15-2011 06:26 AM

08-26-2013, 04:37 PM	#2236
wuzet Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Rzeszow / Maidstone Posts: 452	PZ-1P, FA*24/2, Tri-X 400, Pyrocat HD

08-27-2013, 10:15 PM	#2237
jakeblues Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Los Angeles Photos: Albums Posts: 167	Here are some recent ones. ME Super, Tri-X pushed to 800, K 35 3.5.

08-29-2013, 05:23 PM - 1 Like	#2239
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,092	Some Rollei Retro 80S shots. (KX & K15/3.5 and K35/3.5) Phil.

08-29-2013, 06:50 PM	#2240
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	I like rollei retro 80s, but it looks like it has been developed for too long and you have blown highlights (it can be very tricky). Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle. It took me 3-4 rolls to get the results I like.

08-29-2013, 07:23 PM	#2241
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,092	Originally posted by Nuff I like rollei retro 80s, but it looks like it has been developed for too long and you have blown highlights (it can be very tricky). Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle. It took me 3-4 rolls to get the results I like. It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault. First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try. Phil.

08-29-2013, 07:38 PM	#2242
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	Originally posted by Nuff ... Next time you do it, I would reduce the development time and make sure the agitation is very gentle. The agitation profile is a function of the developer and not the brand of film. Gentle/vigorous agitation slows down/speeds up the film for a given development time. Use development time to control it and follow the manufactures recommended agitation profile.

08-29-2013, 09:52 PM	#2243
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	Originally posted by gofour3 It was Lab processed and scanned. I tweaked around the TIF files and saved them as JPEGS before I posted them, so it's probably my fault. First time I've used this film, so not sure what the end result should look like. I got it cheep from a local store, so I figured I'd give it a try. Phil. Well, if they used the official numbers, that's what they did wrong. I'm pretty sure the boats will look black on the negative. The official times are too long...

08-29-2013, 10:07 PM	#2245
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Nuff Well, if they used the official numbers What official numbers? There are entries on the Massive Dev Chart (B&W Film Developing Times \| The Massive Dev Chart), but I have had poor luck with their numbers with other films. Steve

08-29-2013, 10:16 PM	#2246
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	Originally posted by Nuff Well, if they used the official numbers, that's what they did wrong. I'm pretty sure the boats will look black on the negative. The official times are too long... Curious, how do you know what developer his lab used?

08-29-2013, 10:33 PM	#2247
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	You can speed up/slow down your film through your exposure index. IMHO, that is better than playing with the agitation profile. Of course many developers are more tolerant to how gentle/vigorous you agitate than others. My PMK Pyro I often use, for example, is very sensitive to streaking and non-uniform development if you don't shake it enough. It's that way all the films I have used and I assume Retro 80 would be no exception.

08-29-2013, 10:50 PM	#2248
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,092	Thanks for the Retro 80S tips guys. I'll rescan a couple negatives with my home scanner to rule out scanning. I have one roll left and may try another lab for processing. Phil.

08-29-2013, 11:00 PM	#2249
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	Originally posted by gofour3 Thanks for the Retro 80S tips guys. I'll rescan a couple negatives with my home scanner to rule out scanning. I have one roll left and may try another lab for processing. Phil. I dunno, Phil, your first shot there with the boats looks pretty good both in tonal scale and contrast on my monitor. I think any further adjustments would be a matter of personal taste.

08-30-2013, 12:07 AM	#2250
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	Originally posted by tuco Curious, how do you know what developer his lab used? I don't know which developer, but the times specified for rr80s for any developer are too long according to post by people from various sources. For me the times in Rodinal and Xtol (replenished) were both too long. The xtol times My xtol replenished times are usually between 1:1 and 1:2 mix on the official xtol data. Here's the official data for rr80s Rollei RETRO 80S TWIN 2x 135-36 Massive dev chart: B&W Film Developing Times \| The Massive Dev Chart Similar data for 1:1 and 1:2 mixes. From my experimenting I've arrived at my mix being 7min at 20C (I use 1:2 times for other films). That's 36% shorter time, even if I go by 1:1 times, that's 18% shorter times. The photos look like the results I used to get with the official times. Here's couple with my photos with the shorter dev time (i've posted them before):