Post your B&W Film shots

45 Mike · 12-03-2014, 11:15 AM - **1 Like**

Yep, I do B/W and C-41 process myself. It is *not* difficult nor is it all that dependent on microsecond and microdegree accuracy.
I use the Unicolor one liter kit from Freestyle.com. I started using it in March of 2014, I have run about 6 rolls of 135 film, and close to 15 rolls of 120 film. I still get great results. I do not use 102 F temp at 3.5 min, I use 95 F @ 6 min. At the lower temp the time is much less critical.
I fill a 6-pack cooler with hot tap water, and set the C41 and Blix in the bath, and when the C41 gets to 95 F I pull it and the Blix.
Then I process. The temp of Blix is not critical. I never worry about keeping the tank in a bath at temp, at the lower temp, the temp is not all that critical either. :-)
Now, if you expect perfect results, you can do it yourself, follow the directions exactly. Or you can trust someone else to do it right.
Or you can accept that nothing is perfect and do what I do, and be happy that someone else did not screw up your award winning film shot.
:-)

Cuthbert · 12-03-2014, 01:35 PM

Guys I never developed a film in all my life, when I was young in the 90s there were C41 labs at any angle of the street, today they are all disappearing and the few that remain either work very badly or they charge you ridiculous amount of money (in Italy I was asked 24 euros for a 36 exposure C41 roll!) so ideally I would like to become "independant"..I was always told developing C 41 at home is either impossible or the results are disappointing.

eddie1960 · 12-03-2014, 02:02 PM

Originally posted by Cuthbert

Guys I never developed a film in all my life, when I was young in the 90s there were C41 labs at any angle of the street, today they are all disappearing and the few that remain either work very badly or they charge you ridiculous amount of money (in Italy I was asked 24 euros for a 36 exposure C41 roll!) so ideally I would like to become "independant"..I was always told developing C 41 at home is either impossible or the results are disappointing.

In some ways it's easier than B/W processing. With B/W you have a myriad of chemical choices all of which cause a different end result in the neg. With c41 it's very straightforward, the choice is limited and the main thing is temperature control for a few minutes. If you are going to print then it's a different story, you will need a more sophisticated darkroom in general to print colour. Printing B?W you can start with a complete darkroom you can likely find for $100 or so

tuco · 12-03-2014, 09:18 PM - **2 Likes**

500C/M file update
Zeiss 80/2.8, 100ACR

**gofour3** · 12-03-2014, 10:30 PM

Originally posted by tuco

500C/M file update
Zeiss 80/2.8, 100ACR

Nice, just available lighting or did you use any kind of flash?

Phil.

stevebrot · 12-03-2014, 10:31 PM

Originally posted by Cuthbert

I doubt she's involved in smoothing up pics of making them look better

I should have better qualified my statement. The default automatic settings for most minilab scanners apply both sharpening and smoothing as well as boost to saturation. If I remember I can go back through my files and PM you an example of a minilab scan done on a high-end Fujitsu running in auto-pilot mode where the artifact makes it almost impossible to work with the scan.

Steve

tuco · 12-03-2014, 10:50 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

Nice, just available lighting or did you use any kind of flash?

Phil.

Thanks. Available light. I just opened the lens up all the way and shot one at 1/30th and 1/60th which was about as slow as willing to go. Those frames turned out a little thin but scannable.

rob1234 · 12-04-2014, 05:45 AM

Don't think I posted these? Apologies if they're reposts.

Z-1P, DA35/2.4 (bar the last one), TMax 400, Canon FS4000 scans.

[
url=https://flic.kr/p/pvZyzW]tmax10[/url] by Rob_1234, on Flickr
f/5.6

1/1000th @ f/2.4

1/15th @ f/2.4

M50/1.4
1/500th @ f/1.4

tuco · 12-04-2014, 10:34 PM - **4 Likes**

Safeco Field, 500C/M, 80/2.8, 100TMX

IHS · 12-05-2014, 05:31 AM

^^^HAHAHA!!! I love that..."Thanks for spilling your beer on me you jerk!"

K30Hooker · 12-05-2014, 09:49 AM

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rjhooker/9294709469/

Pentax K1000
SMC Pentax-M 50mm f2
Kodak BW400cn

Parallax · 12-05-2014, 10:05 AM

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/12-post-your-photos/6-how-upload-photos-b...tart-here.html

**gofour3** · 12-05-2014, 10:52 AM

Lions Gate Bridge (P67ii & 165/4, Tri-x 400 red & polarizer filters)

Phil.

K30Hooker · 12-05-2014, 01:05 PM

Originally posted by Parallax

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/12-post-your-photos/6-how-upload-photos-b...tart-here.html

hah. Thanks!

45 Mike · 12-05-2014, 06:56 PM

Taken with paper negative, Ilford RC #3, 1/4 sec f:8. I shot this with my Grafex 4x5 through a double pane window, focused on the hillside (inset). I used my new Schneider Symmar 135/235 convertible.
scanned @800dpi flatbed

I was not expecting great resolution shooting through two panes of glass. I was actually more interested in the focal length effects of swapping the cells between the 100/175 and the 135/235.
This is 100% crop of inset.

The cell swap experiment was fairly unspectacular. No discernible advantage to swapping cells from one lens set to the other.
One swap gave me about 115mm and the other swap gave me close to 120mm.
On 4x5 the difference would be like changing from a 30mm to a 31mm on a 135 camera.

12-05-2014, 09:49 AM	#3581
K30Hooker New Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 3	Adding to the bw shots https://www.flickr.com/photos/rjhooker/9294709469/ Pentax K1000 SMC Pentax-M 50mm f2 Kodak BW400cn

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12-03-2014, 11:15 AM - 1 Like	#3571
45 Mike Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 1,350	Yep, I do B/W and C-41 process myself. It is not difficult nor is it all that dependent on microsecond and microdegree accuracy. I use the Unicolor one liter kit from Freestyle.com. I started using it in March of 2014, I have run about 6 rolls of 135 film, and close to 15 rolls of 120 film. I still get great results. I do not use 102 F temp at 3.5 min, I use 95 F @ 6 min. At the lower temp the time is much less critical. I fill a 6-pack cooler with hot tap water, and set the C41 and Blix in the bath, and when the C41 gets to 95 F I pull it and the Blix. Then I process. The temp of Blix is not critical. I never worry about keeping the tank in a bath at temp, at the lower temp, the temp is not all that critical either. :-) Now, if you expect perfect results, you can do it yourself, follow the directions exactly. Or you can trust someone else to do it right. Or you can accept that nothing is perfect and do what I do, and be happy that someone else did not screw up your award winning film shot. :-)

12-03-2014, 01:35 PM	#3572
Cuthbert Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,740	Guys I never developed a film in all my life, when I was young in the 90s there were C41 labs at any angle of the street, today they are all disappearing and the few that remain either work very badly or they charge you ridiculous amount of money (in Italy I was asked 24 euros for a 36 exposure C41 roll!) so ideally I would like to become "independant"..I was always told developing C 41 at home is either impossible or the results are disappointing.

12-03-2014, 02:02 PM	#3573
eddie1960 Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,666	Originally posted by Cuthbert Guys I never developed a film in all my life, when I was young in the 90s there were C41 labs at any angle of the street, today they are all disappearing and the few that remain either work very badly or they charge you ridiculous amount of money (in Italy I was asked 24 euros for a 36 exposure C41 roll!) so ideally I would like to become "independant"..I was always told developing C 41 at home is either impossible or the results are disappointing. In some ways it's easier than B/W processing. With B/W you have a myriad of chemical choices all of which cause a different end result in the neg. With c41 it's very straightforward, the choice is limited and the main thing is temperature control for a few minutes. If you are going to print then it's a different story, you will need a more sophisticated darkroom in general to print colour. Printing B?W you can start with a complete darkroom you can likely find for $100 or so

12-03-2014, 09:18 PM - 2 Likes	#3574
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	500C/M file update Zeiss 80/2.8, 100ACR

12-03-2014, 10:30 PM	#3575
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by tuco 500C/M file update Zeiss 80/2.8, 100ACR Nice, just available lighting or did you use any kind of flash? Phil.

12-03-2014, 10:31 PM	#3576
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Cuthbert I doubt she's involved in smoothing up pics of making them look better I should have better qualified my statement. The default automatic settings for most minilab scanners apply both sharpening and smoothing as well as boost to saturation. If I remember I can go back through my files and PM you an example of a minilab scan done on a high-end Fujitsu running in auto-pilot mode where the artifact makes it almost impossible to work with the scan. Steve

12-03-2014, 10:50 PM	#3577
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	Originally posted by gofour3 Nice, just available lighting or did you use any kind of flash? Phil. Thanks. Available light. I just opened the lens up all the way and shot one at 1/30th and 1/60th which was about as slow as willing to go. Those frames turned out a little thin but scannable.

12-04-2014, 05:45 AM	#3578
rob1234 Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Wiltshire/Hampshire Photos: Albums Posts: 1,760	Don't think I posted these? Apologies if they're reposts. Z-1P, DA35/2.4 (bar the last one), TMax 400, Canon FS4000 scans. [ url=https://flic.kr/p/pvZyzW]tmax10[/url] by Rob_1234, on Flickr f/5.6 1/1000th @ f/2.4 1/15th @ f/2.4 M50/1.4 1/500th @ f/1.4

12-04-2014, 10:34 PM - 4 Likes	#3579
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,026	Safeco Field, 500C/M, 80/2.8, 100TMX

12-05-2014, 05:31 AM	#3580
IHS Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 175	^^^HAHAHA!!! I love that..."Thanks for spilling your beer on me you jerk!"

12-05-2014, 10:05 AM	#3582
Parallax Senior Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Dakota Photos: Gallery Posts: 19,332	https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/12-post-your-photos/6-how-upload-photos-b...tart-here.html

12-05-2014, 10:52 AM	#3583
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Lions Gate Bridge (P67ii & 165/4, Tri-x 400 red & polarizer filters) Phil.

12-05-2014, 01:05 PM	#3584
K30Hooker New Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 3	Originally posted by Parallax https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/12-post-your-photos/6-how-upload-photos-b...tart-here.html hah. Thanks!

12-05-2014, 06:56 PM	#3585
45 Mike Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 1,350	Taken with paper negative, Ilford RC #3, 1/4 sec f:8. I shot this with my Grafex 4x5 through a double pane window, focused on the hillside (inset). I used my new Schneider Symmar 135/235 convertible. scanned @800dpi flatbed I was not expecting great resolution shooting through two panes of glass. I was actually more interested in the focal length effects of swapping the cells between the 100/175 and the 135/235. This is 100% crop of inset. The cell swap experiment was fairly unspectacular. No discernible advantage to swapping cells from one lens set to the other. One swap gave me about 115mm and the other swap gave me close to 120mm. On 4x5 the difference would be like changing from a 30mm to a 31mm on a 135 camera.