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02-16-2018, 10:39 AM   #6826
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
...I'm just getting my feet wet with B&W film...
LOL. Did you do this on purpose? Nice shots with your wet feet!

02-16-2018, 11:15 AM   #6827
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QuoteOriginally posted by ctrout Quote
Did you do this on purpose?

Ha, flyfishing has found me crotch-deep in most every stream in the Smokies, but I'll plead the Fifth in this case...glad you liked them, though.
02-16-2018, 12:24 PM   #6828
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
A couple from last week's stroll in the GSMNP...
Nice ones, especially the second for me with the root and water shapes, and the rocks in the stream and on the bank. It all works really well. Been wondering where you were! I'm sitting on some film to process. Every weekend has been really lousy weather here for a while.
02-16-2018, 12:42 PM   #6829
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QuoteOriginally posted by timw4mail Quote
Considering how pale and low contrast these negatives are, the scans seem to have turned out pretty well.
I'm somewhat surprised at that as I've shot older, faster film and gotten results with more contrast. Storage could be part of it, but I'd be willing to bet that Svema also doesn't age well.

02-16-2018, 01:33 PM - 1 Like   #6830
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QuoteOriginally posted by g026r Quote
I'm somewhat surprised at that as I've shot older, faster film and gotten results with more contrast. Storage could be part of it, but I'd be willing to bet that Svema also doesn't age well.
I'm also willing to bet that it was fairly lousy to begin with.
02-17-2018, 02:03 PM   #6831
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
I'm just getting my feet wet with B&W film and am experimenting trying to get a good negative--in this case I rated Acros at half box speed and had the lab push it a stop.
How are you metering your scenes? That is, weighted average camera meter kind of thing or are you selecting and placing your own middle grey?
02-17-2018, 05:26 PM   #6832
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
How are you metering your scenes?

Right now I'm using an incident meter "in the shade" in hopes of keeping shadow detail--I guess the analog equivalent of ETTR. (I'm not sure how I'd use a spot meter and the Zone system with roll film, though it would save me a ton of money when shooting slide film...)

02-17-2018, 06:11 PM   #6833
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
Right now I'm using an incident meter "in the shade" in hopes of keeping shadow detail--I guess the analog equivalent of ETTR. (I'm not sure how I'd use a spot meter and the Zone system with roll film, though it would save me a ton of money when shooting slide film...)
Okay.
Roll film or sheet film it makes no difference when it comes to using a one-degree spot meter or the zone system of metering. It's just a method of metering a scene where you pick and place a tonal value. For example, you want really dark shadows? Place them 4 stops below the middle grey. That kind of thing.
02-18-2018, 07:21 AM   #6834
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
place a tonal value

Thanks! I have heard of people snipping their roll film into segments so that they could give each strip the proper "N" development time, though I'm afraid that might tax my fine motor skills in total darkness. Hopefully I can get better at seeing "Zones" and maybe use a development technique (e.g. stand or two-bath) that will give me adequate results for a roll shot in reasonably diverse kinds of light.
02-18-2018, 09:07 AM - 3 Likes   #6835
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
Thanks! I have heard of people snipping their roll film into segments so that they could give each strip the proper "N" development time, though I'm afraid that might tax my fine motor skills in total darkness. Hopefully I can get better at seeing "Zones" and maybe use a development technique (e.g. stand or two-bath) that will give me adequate results for a roll shot in reasonably diverse kinds of light.
I have always wanted to do that, but I think I found the formula to do not worry about N development, or about developing pulled and pushed film. I do stand development, but with this variation: I use Rodinal, and I only put in the jar 3.5 mL of Rodinal per 35mm roll. Then fill the tank with distilled water.3.5mL is all the developer a 35mm roll needs. In the tank, I can put to different rolls, shot at different ASA, or EI. Temperature does not worry me either. I pour the developer and stir for 1 minute and leave it alone for 60 min, or more (since the developer is exhausted, there is no overdevelopment). So far, everything came perfect. I read this somewhere in the internet, and the guy did not recommend this for negatives that will be wet paper printed later on. The sample below is Ilford XP2 400 (a C41 process film) done this way.


02-18-2018, 12:40 PM   #6836
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pepe Guitarra Quote
I do stand development
I have done semi-stand with very dilute (1+119) HC-110 for 15-20 minutes (depends on film) and have been pleased with the results. One must provide adequate developer for full development* of shadows before full exhaustion, but the localized exhaustion protects the highlights quite nicely. See link below under "Unusual Uses" for a description...

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Steve

* This results in fairly high volumes of solution and the need for a larger tank and spacer reels if doing daylight processing.
02-18-2018, 01:48 PM - 2 Likes   #6837
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Pentax K1000, 50mm'f2.0, Fujichrome 100 converted to B&W, Hasselblad X1 scan:

02-18-2018, 05:01 PM   #6838
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QuoteOriginally posted by CreationBear Quote
Thanks! I have heard of people snipping their roll film into segments so that they could give each strip the proper "N" development time, though I'm afraid that might tax my fine motor skills in total darkness.
Doing N, N-1, N+1, etc with small format and 36-frames per roll is not very practical if you're not going to shoot up that roll that day or under those conditions. But with 120 roll where you get 10 or so frames per roll it is very doable. It doesn't take long to shoot up a roll. And if you have something like a 500C/M with it's hot-swapping backs, even better.
02-19-2018, 10:02 AM - 3 Likes   #6839
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More experiments in the dark in 1978/1979:


02-19-2018, 03:16 PM   #6840
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pepe Guitarra Quote
but I think I found the formula to do not worry about N development

There's a gent with a Youtube channel who does much the same for 120--i.e., a set amount of developer in each "stand." You're getting great results--are you being drawn into the "alternate processing" world, too? I can imagine the whole platinum/palladium thing getting pretty addictive if you're able to get good digital negatives.
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