Regarding duping negatives instead of scanning them, I use two different pieces of software for this, and they deliver very close results -- Photoshop v6 and Paint Shop Pro 2018 (although it was an earlier version of PSP that I used for the following shots). The first couple of shots were dupes -- no scans -- of a Fuji Superia 400 negative. You can see slight variations in color, but they are quite minor.
Duped then reversed and massaged in Photoshop:
Duped the reversed and massaged in Paint Shop Pro -- probably v. x6 or so:
Slightly more yellow with PS and slightly more blue with PSP -- but these differences are minor and can be adjusted so they match.
Now here are a couple of dupes of Ektar -- which gives me fits. I can't get rid of the excess cyan. I got pretty close, but still not acceptable to me. First is a scan of the negative using my Epson 4990 and Epson Scan software. Resolution was probably set to 2400 ppi, since anything higher than that, with that scanner, is just file bloat:
Nikon F2, Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 @ f/8, Ektar 100, Epson 4990 @ 2400 ppi:
Dupe, cropped then reversed and massaged in Photoshop:
Dupe, cropped then reversed and massaged in Paint Shop Pro:
Actually, to my eye, Paint Shop Pro removed more cyan than Photoshop, but it's still too much.
So, to sum things up, I find the color quality depends on the color negative emulsion you're duping. I've had good luck so far with Fuji and with regular Kodak and Kodak Portra. I have a couple of rolls left of Ektar, and once I've shot them, I'm not buying any more until I've licked this problem.
---------- Post added 08-27-18 at 10:26 AM ----------
Originally posted by Russell W. Barnes Generally, the stiff card mask I cut out holds them flat.
Of course! Duh! That's what I should do.