[abruzzi]

A few shots from the first roll shot with a Canonet QL17, TMAX100 in Xtol.

[Arjay Bee]

A few shots from the first roll shot with a Canonet QL17, TMAX100 in Xtol

Top one is unique. Had to look twice to be sure you hadn't done a double exposure. :-)

[Jonathan Mac]

Regarding duping negatives instead of scanning them, I use two different pieces of software for this, and they deliver very close results -- Photoshop v6 and Paint Shop Pro 2018 (although it was an earlier version of PSP that I used for the following shots). The first couple of shots were dupes -- no scans -- of a Fuji Superia 400 negative. You can see slight variations in color, but they are quite minor.

Duped then reversed and massaged in Photoshop:


Duped the reversed and massaged in Paint Shop Pro -- probably v. x6 or so:


Slightly more yellow with PS and slightly more blue with PSP -- but these differences are minor and can be adjusted so they match.

Now here are a couple of dupes of Ektar -- which gives me fits. I can't get rid of the excess cyan. I got pretty close, but still not acceptable to me. First is a scan of the negative using my Epson 4990 and Epson Scan software. Resolution was probably set to 2400 ppi, since anything higher than that, with that scanner, is just file bloat:

Nikon F2, Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 @ f/8, Ektar 100, Epson 4990 @ 2400 ppi:


Dupe, cropped then reversed and massaged in Photoshop:


Dupe, cropped then reversed and massaged in Paint Shop Pro:


Actually, to my eye, Paint Shop Pro removed more cyan than Photoshop, but it's still too much.

So, to sum things up, I find the color quality depends on the color negative emulsion you're duping. I've had good luck so far with Fuji and with regular Kodak and Kodak Portra. I have a couple of rolls left of Ektar, and once I've shot them, I'm not buying any more until I've licked this problem.

---------- Post added 08-27-18 at 10:26 AM ----------



Of course! Duh! That's what I should do.

I'd like to know your process in Paintshop Pro as it's the software I use. I have X4 and X8, though there's little difference between them and X4 has a plug-in that is very useful for adjusting colour of film scans and I haven't had any success getting the same plug-in to work in X8.

[abruzzi]

Top one is unique. Had to look twice to be sure you hadn't done a double exposure. :-)

Yeah, it was a flooded orchard. I really like how it came out.

[cooltouch]

I'd like to know your process in Paintshop Pro as it's the software I use. I have X4 and X8, though there's little difference between them and X4 has a plug-in that is very useful for adjusting colour of film scans and I haven't had any success getting the same plug-in to work in X8.

I didn't care for X3 or X4. X6 was much better, as was X8. I'm currently using PSP v 2018, but the commands for this haven't changed. I don't use a plug-in. Maybe I should -- maybe it'll make things simpler. Anyway, with some negative images, I get lucky and it's easy to produce a decent looking image. In these cases, under the pull-down Image, I select Negative Image to convert to a positve, then under Adjust, I select Color, then Fade Correction, and I dial in the amount. Somewhere around 50 works well.

I just loaded that cat negative to see if it would be that easy. It wasn't. After doing the fade correction, the colors still weren't accurate and it was a little dark. So I went to Adjust>Brightness and Contrast>Curves, set the Curves command to "Color" and then I selected the Gray brush and touched it to the top right corner of the negative, which brought things very close to where they should be. Could maybe do with a touch of saturation after all that. Yeah, I just tried it. I went to Adjust>Hue and Saturation>Hue/Saturation/Lightness. There was a bit too much yellow, so I set the color to yellow and dialed it down by about 50 points. Then set the color to Master and dialed the saturation up til it looked about right. That's as far as I'm gonna take it. It looks okay now.

You can spend a lot of time tweaking a negative image to try and get it to look right. Other times, it just comes out great after only the first two commands. There's no predicting things, it seems like.

[PWhite214]

Pentax Spotmatic, Takumar 35mm f3.5. Arista (Foma) 100 ISO developed in Rodinal, Epson 4490 scanner

[IMG][/IMG]

Phil

[Ediz7531]

Pentax H3V, Super-Tak 55mm f/1.8, Tri-X.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

File Date

 

[murrelet]

Pentax KX
SMC-M 50mm F1.4
Kosmo Foto Mono 100
Kodak D-76 1:1 at 20 deg C for 9:00
Scanned on a Noritsu LS-600

[timw4mail]

Attachment 420907

Pentax KX
SMC-M 50mm F1.4
Kosmo Foto Mono 100
Kodak D-76 1:1 at 20 deg C for 9:00
Scanned on a Noritsu LS-600

Is that an expired film stock?

[Eyewanders]

Shot a film wedding a week and a half ago. Was a great time. A mix of 120 and 135, these are a couple Tmax3200 frames shot with the LX (I had along also the 67ii and a Contax T2 for a quick-pocket backup)...







Pentax LX | M28/2.0 (1st) and M50/1.2 (2nd two) | TMax3200

[shadowjester]

My kind of shot - nicely done

---------- Post added 08-22-18 at 08:55 PM ----------



Cheers! I also live by this kind of honesty... sometimes we all get good shots by "luck" rather than precision or "skill". It is good to acknowledge when this happens, I believe.

Thanks - taken from the car while my wife drove to a wedding. I was a fan of the sky, and I’m super glad it turned out.

[murrelet]

Is that an expired film stock?

Not expired. But I've seen rumors that it's rebadged Fomapan 100.

Kosmo Foto Mono 100/36 35mm film - Kosmo Foto

[timw4mail]

Not expired. But I've seen rumors that it's rebadged Fomapan 100.

Kosmo Foto Mono 100/36 35mm film - Kosmo Foto

I know I've made a thread listing film available to buy, but it is really hard to keep track of what is out there!

Color negative and slide film could disappear, but you'd still have 50 choices for black and white.

[Ediz7531]

Pentax H3V, Super-Takumar 55mm f/1.8, Tri-X.

[Bonner04]

Always good to have toys, and to simplify one's life.
Lomography Sprocket Rocket
f/16 ISO 400