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02-06-2020, 12:00 PM   #8956
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QuoteOriginally posted by g026r Quote
Listen, unless it's a 20x24 Polaroid, I'm not impressed.
The image looks 1:1 to the person's actual size.

02-06-2020, 12:42 PM   #8957
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QuoteOriginally posted by g026r Quote
Listen, unless it's a 20x24 Polaroid, I'm not impressed.


It is the Polaroid part that is cool. I have seen 20x24 view cameras before.


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02-06-2020, 12:44 PM   #8958
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
I'm more impressed by the idea of glass plates. Glass. Plates. Just let that sink in.
I have a friend that does collodion glass plates...diehard.


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02-06-2020, 12:46 PM   #8959
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
The image looks 1:1 to the person's actual size.
I was thinking the same and also thinking that while I knew that Andy Warhol was a small person, I had no idea he was THAT small.


Steve

02-06-2020, 03:59 PM - 3 Likes   #8960
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Last edited by Helios 1984; 02-07-2020 at 01:00 PM.
02-06-2020, 11:18 PM - 4 Likes   #8961
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02-07-2020, 03:40 PM - 1 Like   #8962
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Petri 7s, Lomography Earl grey 100. I don't really like Earl grey, not the character I am looking for in a film. I tried it because it's a friend's favorite stock but it's not for me.

02-10-2020, 01:39 AM - 3 Likes   #8963
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02-10-2020, 07:37 AM   #8964
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QuoteOriginally posted by Archimedes the Dog Quote


Petri 7s, Lomography Earl grey 100. I don't really like Earl grey, not the character I am looking for in a film. I tried it because it's a friend's favorite stock but it's not for me.
I think Earl Gray has always been Fomapan 100, in which case it's really a bit slower than it claims to be. The general rule is that Foma films are really 2/3 of a stop slower than they claim to be. Maybe if you adjust accordingly it will give you results you like better, but my problem with Foma films is how damn curly the negatives are.
02-10-2020, 10:36 AM - 4 Likes   #8965
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I think Earl Gray has always been Fomapan 100, in which case it's really a bit slower than it claims to be. The general rule is that Foma films are really 2/3 of a stop slower than they claim to be. Maybe if you adjust accordingly it will give you results you like better, but my problem with Foma films is how damn curly the negatives are.
Yeah, I have one photo I took on Fomapan which i really am happy with (below, Bronica ETRS on Fomapan), but in general I haven't loved Fomapan or, by extension, Earl Grey. I keep experimenting with different film stocks out of curiosity but in general I just prefer TMAX.




Last edited by Archimedes the Dog; 02-12-2020 at 10:13 AM.
02-10-2020, 02:15 PM   #8966
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I think Earl Gray has always been Fomapan 100, in which case it's really a bit slower than it claims to be. The general rule is that Foma films are really 2/3 of a stop slower than they claim to be. Maybe if you adjust accordingly it will give you results you like better, but my problem with Foma films is how damn curly the negatives are.
They tend to be particularly sensitive to what developer is used as well. Ilford Microphen generally gets the results closest to indicated box speed, at least on Foma's own data sheets.

(I like Foma 200, but it's definitely closer to 125 or 160 depending on what you use.)
02-10-2020, 03:00 PM - 3 Likes   #8967
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I like Fomapan Action 400 in 120 format and usually develop it in ID-11. Sometimes in Rodinal and occasionally HC-110 'E'. I like ID-11 best though. What I DON'T like is I occasionally get 'fat film' issues and I always unload my camera in the dark bag or in as dark a room as possible if I have a film container handy. I've never suffered 'fat film' with any other brand.

What I DO like is the frame numbers are easy to read through the red window: nice and clear. I'm not keen on Foma in 35mm format.

Here's one I took on my 1938 Zeiss Ikon Nettar 515-2 with Tessar f4.5 105mm lens. Done in ID-11 1+3.

02-10-2020, 03:21 PM   #8968
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QuoteOriginally posted by Archimedes the Dog Quote
Yeah, I have one photo I took on Fomapan which i really am happy with (below, Bronica ETRS on Fomapan), but in general I haven't loved Fomapan or, by extension, Earl Grey. I keep experimenting with different film stocks out of curiosity but in general I just prefer TMAX.
Nice. If you are constantly playing around with different film/developer combos, I'll argue you'll never get really good with any of them.

Look at you mountain picture. You have bright highlights in the snow and deep, lost exposure in the shadows of the conifer trees. A scene with a healthy dose of DR. Imagine for a moment that you took the identical picture plus adjusted the scan's contrast curve in the identical way as this picture but you adjusted your ISO up/down by 1/3 of a stop from box speed. Your middle gray (in the range of DR you captured) would move up/down just a small 1/3 of a stop in this large tonal scale range.

At the brighter end of what BW film can capture in a scene is a zone of no detail because its so bright. In that zone is over a stop of light. Similarly on the darkest zone just above base + fog of the film. There is recorded density but not any noticeable detail.

So if you change your ISO by 1/3-stop up/down from box speed, you add/lose 1/3-stop more exposure to a dark area that you can't see any detail in and add/lose 1/3-stop on the high end that you can't see any detail in. So the image really still looks the same. Just a tiny, barely perceived, shadow or highlight detail has been added or lost that is just above or below the these threshold zones.

What I'm saying 1/3-stop is pretty insignificant for many sunny 16 condition pictures using BW film with its typical +/- stop of latitude plus your contrast curve adjustment latitude you have just with the scanning software. But that's just my humble opinion. Your milage may vary.
02-11-2020, 11:08 AM - 8 Likes   #8969
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Workflow update on old photo.

500C/M, CF 80/2.8, NDX8 + Orange, Acros, PMK


02-11-2020, 04:48 PM - 5 Likes   #8970
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